PieEater3142

or a 200tdi...

Are you referring to the difflock switch? If so I believe one should go to earth - my boxes have both had a wire coming from one of the spades and then go under a bolt on the transfer box. The other goes to the difflock lamp. Have you got this type of switch coming out the transfer box (old type tdi): http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=89607 Or one of these ( I believe td5 defender/disco): http://land-rover.eliott.in/_data/s_69/shop/big_spinac-kontrolky-mezinapravy-igm500011.jpg Or something else?

goodo You got the alternator warning lamp (brown and yellow)? You need this (I beleive) to get the alternator to work correctly - if I've learnt anything talking to Si from X-Eng

looking up LM25 TF (can't find the other T) http://www.alumasc-p...k/AlloyLM25.php Melting point is 615C so this is lower than straight ali? Suggested maximum temp is 780C from here: http://raffmetal.it/pdf/schede-leghe/en/EN-42000.pdf but that is for Al – Si7Mg which is LM25 as far as I can tell. This seem reasonable challo? The head melts at 781+?

Awesome video thanks Nige. Also loving this on (off topic)Think I need to come see you some time about some upratings to my diffs Just out of curiosity, does anyone ever peg salisbury's or are they solid as they are?

very true. Using old loom wires in my new one caused a couple of issues because of that very fact....

lovely work. Hmmm, ideas to take away thanks guys

Thanks, so egt over boost. Do you need the boost for uprated intercooler for tuning the fuel pump/sorting out the waste gate?

Want to install a boost guage on a 200tdi, would it be worth while to put an egt on it as well ?

I've made home made sub frames, I i've set them up so the seat can go back quite a bit more than the bulkhead will allow. What I didn't realise was that the backs of the seats were so bulky. It's more that I'd like to recline the seat a bit more. But the question is do I go the whole hog and rip it out or just take the top off (mudstuff style). How much do you gain with the mudstuff one? I need to drop the seat angle back another 4inches or so at the head so possibly 2 at the bulkhead level. Is there any way I can tell what I'd gain?

OK so getting near the end of my project and my custom seat runners for the cobra buckets I bought mean that I'm a bit closer to the steering wheel (gut wise) that anticipated. Whilst I have lots of leg room I would prefer to be further back than I am at present. So was wondering if people could tell me if the bulkhead removal bars are tub out jobs or can they be done in situe? Is this an easy job or should I look for other seats? Cheers, James

Apologies if its teaching to suck eggs but: Thick brown is feed to batteries Brown and yellow is alternator warning lamp From my experience, the 200tdi defender has two thick(ish) brown wires that have two hefty spades that go onto the back of the alternator. The third is a smaller spade for brown yellow. From what you have described I would assume that your red/white is the alternator warning lamp as this sounds like the 3 spades you normally have for a 200tdi 45amp alternator. But I might be wrong. As far as I can remember white/red is starter solenoid, but red/white is an unknown to me. Have you traced it anywhere and how thick is it? Is the loom/engine from a defender or disco?

Curiosity got the better of me and I now need to know I have googled and forum searched and google forum searched (2 pin diff lr4x4, 4pin diff lr4x4 in google) and tried ashcrofts, kam etc for somewhere that gives nice pictures that show the difference between 2pin and 4 pin diffs from the outside (i.e., when its got the casing on but out of the axle). Can someone in the know point me to a site that illustrates the differences or explain how to tell the difference, and can you? Also what combinations do they come in etc? Has anyone done a definitive guide to diffs with nice pics? A rundown of each - wiki like would be awesome. Cheers, James

How do you get the big flame? Never managed it myself...

Ok stupid question ahoy. Fitted my tail gate and there are two possible hole sets for the support wire to thread into. Question is, should they be the ones directly behind the door when upright our the ones set back a bit. also angle of tail gate at present has a droop. Should it be level? If so recessed holes are the answer. Also has anyone ever fitted a bit of rubber between the gate and the tub? Big gap at present and didn't know if people left it or had a nice solution to filling it in.

Ok so after much swearing, i have fitted and removed the passenger wheel box. I removed most of the play to the point where it only slipped when it went to fully upright. But this is with the tab fully pressed in and my bending in the top of the wheel box to get the worm drive close to the gear. I'm guessing from this requirement that the gets are knackered. I don't have anything to compare it with but I'm at the point of ordering new wheel boxes. Question is, are bearmach safe to use our should i just go lr. It's 40 more though...

Got two at the moment, saving for the other two, lol

Hella's are nice if you have the money - 3000 ralley e compacts but their £60 a pop

Yep soft drive, will put it on the road first then. Thanks guys

Thanks Diff, I think it's a bit more than an 1/2 inch but I will look at putting a yellow yellow on the drivers side as well to even it up after I get someone to look at it once i'm sat in it. If it's level when i'm in there i'm tempted to leave it. It is exaserbated by the drive being unlevel so can't tell the real difference easily, just going on looks from the front. You can see the difference here (although as I said the drive isn't very level and the grill is not attached): I will measure the difference in height between spring turret and axle on both sides and see what the difference is - only really noticed when I put the arches on and my foot fits under one arch and not the other.

Si, do you mean take the earth feed for one as the output of another? Alternatively could you not just use a single relay, taking: 30 - lh indicator 86 - rh indicator 85 - standard earth 87 - hazard switch Would this not ensure that it was only switched on when power was flowing through the relay via 86 and is tripped by 30? Or would the on off timing cause problems?

Adrian Flux put my insurance up this year as well by £100 - couldn't believe it. Never had an accident, never claimed, isn't insurance supposed to go down if you keep your nose clean? About to swap the policy to my 110 instead. Dreading the price hike...

But then the hazard light will come on when you indicate surely? Don't you still need an AND gate?

Sorry - old photos - the bodywork is all on, just waiting on some tiger seal to put the passenger floor pan down and the non moving hinges (tail gate, bonnet windscreen) to come back from power coating. Then its off for MOT (after filling the drivetrain with oils and fixing the wiper issue). The last pic I took before I put the wheel arches on and drained down the drivetrain:

Thanks Si, much appreciated.