teaandbiscuits

Ah, good point. Think I may have got caught up in the stress of "you should throw it away, mate". Will get someone to have a look at it in the week.

Just had the RAC man out. The k-series engine in the freelander has apparantly blown its piston rings, and is burning oil. It also apparently can't be sleeved and this means a new engine. So, do I: - put the whole thing on ebay for spares or repair with 6 months MOT? - work three jobs to buy a brand new engine (recommended by RAC) - buy a reconditioned engine from someone (not recommended by RAC) - something else? Cheers all, very worried by all this.

I read it that any fob can be programmed to the car from this:

So it a case of just buying any old freelander remote bipper and then you recoding it? I could do with a couple as my FL1 came with one key and no remote. I'd be happy to cover postage + beer / biscuit funds. What data do you need for the programming?

following with interest, as i have the same as the first problem!

The connectors with the new stereo are fine and go into the connectors from the power and speakers. The wires have been chopped and spliced just before the connectors: CAR ---- [crazy spliced cable mayhem] -- connector - new stereo connector -- stereo ^hope that makes sense. What I was hoping was that the wires that go into the power connector for the stereo are a cable set that has a connector at the other end and I can replace that set of cables easily (it must plug into something on the car end, surely?)

Good morning LR4x4 hivemind! I have a 2002 FL1 1.8. Father Christmas gave me a shiny new stereo to replace the rubbish aftermarket one that I had before. On removing the old one I found several things: 1. There are two plugs like this: that plug into the new stereo's wiring adapter. One goes to the speakers and one to the power etc. The power one has been butchered and there is now no constant live feed - both the constant live and the switched live are fed from the switched live of the car. 2. The plug for the air recirculation switch was disconnected. One connecting there is a loud thumping / compressor noise from the glove box area which changes pitch when the switch is closed. This switch plug is white in colour. The switch plug for the air con is black and works but doesn't seem to make the car colder. So, my questions are: 1. Would there be a good reason for the butchered wires, and if not how easy is it to replace the connectors? 2. Are the two plugs the wrong way round and the air-conditioning is knackered? Thanks, and happy new year!

Cool, thanks for the replies. Rob, thanks for the offer but I'm in Bristol so it's a reasonable way! May consider getting it couriered if I don't find anything local if that's ok with you?

Afternoon all, my 2002 1.8 Freelander 1 has no sump guard fitted. Is this normal or should it have something from new? Do they get removed by mechanics and just never bothered to be refitted? Should I have one, and if so does anyone know what part number etc they are? Cheers all!

I think that's 2 MPG

I held my pulley using a fixed gear bicycle lockring tool (I work in a cycle shop). It was just the job:

Well the 110 was collected by a nice man and I went off and bought one! 1.8 k series that has just had a new head gasket, cambelt etc. 3 door hardback which looks like it may be fun in the summer. Its nice going to a "car" from a defender - the heater works, its quiet and can keep up on the motorway.

+1 this. Thanks for all the buying advice and what to look for etc, I now have a 2002 Freelander 1 3 door and I'm very happy. You guys rock!

Thanks all for the excellent advice. Just selling my defender this week the off to look at FL1s. Looking forward to comfy seats, soundproofing etc!

Does this mean I should avoid a 2000 or earlier?

I'm going to drive one for the first time on saturday, so I may change my mind after that! With the defender, everything I had planned to do is to make it more car like (soundproofing, carpets, new seats etc). I started thinking (always dangerous) that I should just get something more car like!

Morning all, I'm looking to change my defender 110 hardtop to something with five seats, soundproofing etc and think I've decided on a freelander 1. After looking on here and elsewhere, my conclusions are: 1.8i petrol engine: cheaper to buy, but heavier on fuel than the diesels. Early ones cooked the head gasket but most should be fixed by now? Engine warming required before any hard revs. TD4: more desirable (therefore more expensive to buy) but easier on fuel and more reliable than the petrol. maybe more expensive to fix if anything goes wrong? Pollen and air filters must be changed often to save turbo, and worth removing EGR valve if fitted. I'd like a 3 door one because of the removable rear roof section. Is this a good idea or are they a nightmare of leaks etc? Viscous unit can be problematic, but most problems are the propshaft bearings and / or diff mount rubbers if strange noises down there. Look for funny tyre wear to spot problems. IRD is expensive if it goes wrong, not sure what to look for on the forecourt for this? Any tips / advice would be great!

Look like this: Then its a geek's car :-)

Fitting question (now that it's here - hooray): the instructions say to use a step drill bit to make the stud holes. Is this recommended, or can you use a standard 16mm drill bit?

No problem. Contacted the seller and its a genuine boxed 300tdi safari (just the wrong pic) - think i got a bit of a deal

Since it says Genuine Safari in the title and description I was hoping it was a real one.

Saw this on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-SAFARI-DEFENDER-SNORKEL-300TDI-TD5-LAND-ROVER-/170683454641?_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D2142686354101575169#ht_941wt_1139 Genuine ones on the web seem to go for £180+ so for almost half price seems like a no-brainer. Unless I'm missing something?

blue?

Why do you have to jack the car up and put it on axle stands? Is it just for clearance - I can't see any difference than leaving it on the wheels.

google.com/chrome you won't go back