Crofter

Hi, check the oil for dilution see if it's got fuel in it, or change it anyway useing the correct grade, if the oil is thin this will give you low oil prssure. Regards, Ronnie.

I had the same problem, sometimes the brakes worked and some times they did not, after a short while they got worse and could not be trusted so after checking the usual suspects, I replaced the Master Cylinder this solved the problem, but I did not use a genuine part and the problem returned after 3 months, so now I have fitted a Lucas master cylinder. If you buy a master cylinder buy a genuine part, and would advise anyone else to do the same, because it's not a nice feeling when approaching a junction and the brake pedal goes to the floor, fortunitly one circit still worked in my case and I got away with only a fright. Regards, Ronnie.

I have just done the same job last Friday, the way i got rhe seat in place was with a socket and threaded rod, i drew the seat in useing the socket on the bottom with a bar across the top and two nuts , then I tightened one nut drawing the seat fully home.

Hi, I have 235x85x16 Tyres on Modular wheels and thay fit well with a good off set so no need to ajust the stops.This is what thay look like.

Would a sticking piston or two cause the pedel to go so far down, the brake pedel is OK for now but I still don't trust it and will need to look at the front calipers when I can get it in my shed, but it's got my Intrnational B275 in just now for a starter overhaul so no space for a Land Rover. Ronnie.

The brakes are working properly today, I know this is not satisfactory and proberbly won't last I canot trust it anyway. Could the brake bias valve cause this intermitant fault, This was the way the last master cylinder went but it looked pretty old if not original. All the brake pipes and flexi hoses were new last year when it was rebuilt on a new chassis this work was not done by me I bought this way. Ronnie.

The breaks failed on my 1984 Land Rover 90 yesteerday, luckly it was on my drive, the pedal went right to the floor. The thing is there was a new Master cylinder fitted about three monthes ago due to the original one going, what Iam wondering is there some thing that could cause the master cylinder to fail or is it just bad parts the cylinder is from B***Part I assumed that being a brake part that it would OK, and most stuff i have had from them has been OK. To be certain of my diagnossis is there any other thing that could cause this, I have chacked the pipes wheel and cylinders although I have not taken a drum off, but with the pedal going down so far I would think there would be fluid visable and the leval in the master cylinder is not going down noticeably. Ronnie.

Hi, it's the one that seals the Halfshaft, the one in the kit was to small the halfshaft would go through the seal but the land on the shaft that the seal runs on is bigger so the stub would not bolt tight to the swievel houseing. Anyway to day I went and got the proper seal and it's back together now only the tracking to do, this needs done because I fitted new track roe ends. Ronnie

Has any one had any trouble with the stub axle seal with Britpart swievel seal kits for railko type swievels, when I tried to fit the stub to mine the seal is to small a diameter and wont fit the Cv stub. Are there different size cv I know I should have compared seals before I fitted the new one but I expected it to be right. Ronnie.

This chassis was new and this was the first winter on the road, it was ok until just before Chrismas, thats when we got real snow and the roads were salted, I knew there would be a deteriation in the finnish, this just seems quite severe. A guy at work has a series 2 with a galvinised chassis and it is the same all over as the worst places on mine, but it's quite old. Most of My chassis still looks good with a nice finnish it's just the bit's I photoed and the front legs that are gray and rough. I will waxoil mine in the spring when the salt is off the road as I don't want to waxoil salt in, I will use black waxoil for the exterior and clear for the inside. Ronnie.

My Land Rover 90 has a Galvinised chassis fitted, this is it's first winter on the road and Iam a bit alarmed by the change in apearance of the finnish, i was not expecting it to stay shinny, but it's getting a gray rough coating esecialy round the outrigger at the fuel tank. is this normal or do i have a problem. Is there anything I need to do to preserve the chassis, I know nothing lasts forever but I thought a galvinised Chassis would bear up better. Any advice would be appriceated I have attached photos of the parts mentioned. Thanks Ronnie

My worry would be the insurance company blameing you for damage, If a car is in a ditch you don't know what damage is underneath the car, and the insurance will be only to glad to try and recover the cost from you, After all in their eyes you don't know how to recover a car and could have made the damage worse. I my opinion it's best left to the recovery Garage's unless you know and trust the person your towing. Ronnie.

Thanks Matt, that looks like the one. Regards, Ronnie.

Hi, sorry about the lack of details, the Land Rover is a 90 with side mounted Tank, and would have been a 2.5Td. At present it's fitted with a Isuzu 2.8 Td, because the Land Rover was so extensively done up with a Galvinised Chassis new bulkhead and a new Diesel Tank there is no saying that the Tank from the right year was used, thats why I am wondering which sender I have got, there are two types from Paddocs which I assume are an early type and a late type. the one on the tecnical archive (changeing the fuel Tank) by Les Hanson seems to be different to mine, but I don't know if the one he was changeing was a early or late model. Regards, Ronnie.

Helo, I have a 1984 Land Rover 90 that has been extensively done up, and Iam about to order a new Fuel Tank sender but I don't know which type it has fitted, I assume there are two types, the age of the Land Rover is no indecation of the type because there is a new tank fitted (all the work was done before I bought the vehicle). When looking through the tecnical archive I saw an artical by Les Hanson on Changeing a fuel Tank, the sender in this artical is definately different to mine, mine has a pipe atached to the sender unit this must be ether the suction or return. Any help would be appriceated. Thanks in advance, Ronnie.

Thanks for the replys everyone, I think I will let it develope a bit and see if it gets worse, I have read the manuel and it looks as if I could do the work, i will see what finance is like next year that will determine which way I will go. Regards, Ronnie.

I was hopeing i could swap the gearleaver mountings over, but this seems unlikely so I may just use the Disco box for part's if thats possable, and get an overhaul kit as well, but Iam still wondering about the special tools, and whether it's feesable with out them because a recon box looks about £400-£500. Regards, Ronnie

Hi, hy gear box in my Land Rover 90 with Izusu 2.8, may need replaceing soon because there is play in the output shaft causeing a clung if the clutch is released to quickly, also in reverse there is a chattering sound. Will a LT77 from a Discovery fit,I know the input shaft is longer, and I was going to fit a 90 inputshaft, I am asking because I have a Disco box and It's seems ok and was hopeing to overhaul it and convert it to my fit my 90. Is it possable to do this without the special service tools mentioned in the manuel, Im not new to mechanics and have rebuilt many engines just not many Gear boxes. ie the Land Rover box is a LT77. Regards, Ronnie

Thanks for the replys, I have got to the bottom of this, all it needed was a awfull lot of bleeding and a lot of fluid, the rear was particularly hard to bleed, I thought I got all the air out and then the next night I tryed there was another small amount of air, and all was well, good brakes restored. Like many jobs this turned out to take longer than I first thought, changeing the Master cylinder was the easy part. Regards and thanks, Ronnie.

Hi, I know about closeing the Nipples, the way I was trying, was getting my Wife to pump the pedal until there is a hard pedal and then I opened the bleednipples, I have done this many times before on other cars although it's a bit messy it works. What I cannot understand is the fact that when the pedal is pumped up the first time fluid comes out the nipple but when it's done next little or no fluid comes out, and also the fact that the pedal goes to the floor, but if you wait a little while there is some pedal although it's prety spongy. The back brakes seem to have bled ok, So Iam wondering if there is some air in the front system maybe in the pipe that crosses the bulhead to the nearside. Regards,Ronnie.

Hi, I have just changed tge Master Cylinder on my LR90, but bleeding it seems to be very difficult especialy at the front, when pressure is pumped up and the front bleeders are released there is fluid the first time but when you repeat the process imediately no fluid comes out and when you close the bleeder there is no pedel for about 30 seconds then there is a pedal but not a very good one, are thay usualy hard to bleed. Thanks, Ronnie.

Hi, my 1984 Land Rover 90 brakes have developed a intermitant fault, the brakes sometimes seem to be working on one cirket the symtom is a long pedal, I would normaly think the brakes needed ajusting but this happens mybe for a day or so and then it's ok for a while, so if it was ajustment it would not work sometimes and not others. I think It's a master cylinder problem, and was looking for some other opinions please. Thanks in advance, Ronnie.

Hi, yes I have had it running, It starts very well, there is a very slight smoke of it when it's pulling there is not a lot of pressure at the oil filler cap, but there is a slight noise when idleing, its kind of like an induction noise, the type I have heard on other diesels when the air cleaner is off but much fainter. As for the noise I will ask my naighbour to listen to one of his Discovery's Regards, Ronnie.

Thanks for the replys, It's a 200, I have checked the Haynes manual pictures and by the look of the thermostat houseing it's a 200. Now I will need to figure out the condition before I decide what to do with the engine, it has 157,000 on the clock I dont know if this is considered a very high mileage for this type of engine, I would be glad for any advice. Regards, Ronnie.