sadoldgit

with you all the way on this one jim, my 110 SW had had genuine red polys on for 70k or more and i foolishly changed em for deflex when i changed my radius arms and like you say total bag of cr4p. there's been allot of sense talked about why to stay with std rubber and i can't argue with it but i do like my gen orange polys

looks the dogs, how much was it matey

this was exactly the conclusion i came to whilst the wife and i drove down to glasgow with our oilskins on !!!!!!!

seriously guys, suffolk, herts, cornwall you get about 30" of rain a year we get that in a month (usually sideways at 60mph) sunroofs should be banned at this lattitude

this is sage advice for anyone living north of the border where the rain is like a powerwasher every vehicle i've had here has pished in water from the sunroof i will NEVER buy another vehicle that has one unless i move to east anglia (which is unlikely) goodluck stoney , regards, paul

hi ben, i did this the other way round and there are allot of differences, so i bought an old set of push button doors as donors. there must be lots of people who have done this mod and have old lift up doors they want rid of. the glass thickness is the least of your worries, door latches, cards, interior handles are all different. i binned mine or you could have had em for the price of the courier. good luck, paul

fill it with belzona and wrap a coke tin round it good luck, paul

hi martin i think the reason it's ally on the inlet side is for heat transfer, by the time the air gets to the other side it's cooler so not as important. well that's what i think anyway though i could be full of cr4p can't see it being an issue though. good luck, paul

yep, and in the headlining by your ear aswell, you can alter your balance so most of the sound comes out the back with just a wee bit from the front, sounds great

tried that andy, hit it so hard that the grease detonated i have used this method many times with success but it does not seem to work so well on the bronze bushes. works without fail on ball races right enough and for 91p it's not worth the risk. cheers, paul

hi ged, might be worth gettin' a spiggot shaft bush, only 91p for a gen landy one. i only mention this cos i've just swapped the engine in mine and the one in the new lump was dodgy and they're impossible to get out without damage. i live in the middle of nowhere and had tried to foresee everything, hose clips, clutch kit and fork, new belts, loctite for flywheel bolts (and oil seal) etc, etc, used genuine seal and the installer and it still leaked good luck, paul

hi guys, whilst we're on the subject of door skins can you get them for 2nd row doors? cheers, paul

here's one i found on the seabed though it's a bit heavy at 4.5tons

yes this does make sense, suppose i've just been lucky, though i've always managed to drift the carrier back in using a block of wood with it's new bearings using the same size shims. the other thing is we always did them on wheelfree ramps so you were standing under the axle and could use quite a long bar if ness, having said that i did the landy on the floor.

hi bob, like mike says diff carrier has to come out but you can leave the axle in, dunno where all this axle spreader buissiness comes from, yes they can sometimes be tight but if you put a ring spanner on one of the crown wheel bolts to stop the carrier turning then carefully lever it out with a bar they come out fine (well all the ones i've done did, i have to say most of them were fords and i've only done 1 landy ) and you certainly don't want to be grinding anything cheers paul

any luck with the bolt yet? i,ve had problems with mine over the years at some point around 10 years ago the crank bolt was left loose and it damaged the crank etc i repaired it with belzona a beer can lots of loctite and tightened the bolt up FT with a 3/4" bar. the net result of this exremely effective repair is that whenever i need to change a timing belt the only way i can undo the bolt is to take off the sump and jam the crank with a block of wood! sounds a bit extreme but if your changing the oil anyway it's not much harder than taking the starter off (if you don't mind getting covered in oil ) good liuck paul

hi mathew' i think the plug C in the diff indicates an imperial (earlier) diff the ones without a plug in are metric, not sure what the score is with splines but i suppose if you change the whole axle it won't matter anyway. good luck paul

does it judder once your foot is completly off the clutch? if it's just juddering as your bringing the clutch up it's probably got oil on it. poss rear main or gearbox input shaft seal or as coastcard says mountings. is your wading plug in? could have a build up of oil in the flywheel housing. my rear main is pishing oil out and my clutch is juddering in reverse but for some reason not all the time (been like that for 2 years but i keep putting it off!)

you're dead right phill there are some carp pistons out there. we fitted 5 to a 6 cylinder lister, the engineer doing the job refused to fit them at first but there was some issue with supply. so he did it reluctantly. they lasted 3 months, one of them was a melted lump on the end of the con rod the other 4 looked like they had done 10 000 hours and the one genuine piston was still like new but i'm sure any reputable firm would only fit good uns, and i'd steer clear of buying anything so critical in a britpart box (if indeed they supply pistons) good luck paul

dunno about the allmakes stuff as i've not tried it yet but i've fitted plenty britpart stuff to my defender in fact i've invoices going back 15 years for just about everything thats been fitted and i can wholeheartedly agree with everyone who says it's carp. the clutch slave cyl lasted 7 weeks, the headlights were so shoddy i gave them away, the door lock lasted 11 months, the rear wiper motor did not even work, neither did it's replacement, the prop shaft uj's failed on the new prop etc, etc, basicly it's like mike says your lucky if you get the year out of it!! good luck paul

hi nas i wouldnae risk the biodiesel in an ebby as like someone else on this thread said the spares are extortionate. i spoke to someone at eberspacher uk a couple of years ago and he said they go better with a bit of kerrosene mixed in (but don't quote me) so i would guess they would run worse with some bio in (though i could be wrong! cheers paul

hi paul, that ebby on ebay seems to be a good one but i think it would melt your landy as its 2.2kw the D1 and D1LC are 1.7kw (i think) an they are PLENTY hot enough. i paid £284 inc post on eblag for mine a couple of years ago and reckon i got a bargin as it was like new. though a mate of mine got one for £50! i'm sure you could get something cheaper in the summer as it's the ebby season just now. good luck paul

you're obviously much harder than me! i leave mine running all winter, never any ice on my windows! and i don't care how good your heater is it won't warm anyone sat in the back!

hi gromit i've had a D1LC in my csw for a couple of years now and i love it. mounted it infront of the middle 2nd row seat, just behind the cubby box. i took some photo's for someone on another forum but have not figured how post em yet. but i'll have another go for ya.dunno if thats it. anyway there was a good reason for putting it there and not under the seat but i can't rememember what it was. seat would not tip or fouled exhaust or something. also fitting it where i did means you can duct the small 1" take off into the drivers footwell if you want or even into the engine compartment. fraid i cn't help with the wiring as mine was pre wired to a rheostat with a timer. hope this helps paul

thats it lewis, i found em 2 fronts an 2 rears, send me a pm with your add an i'll post em on. there's no weight in em so should nae cost much. cheers paul