Pinn76

Hi, My 300tdi used to groan when I turned the steering wheel too, located the sound to the bulkhead rubber the steering column passes through. Quick spray of wd40/gt80 kept it quiet. Hope this helps you as it took a while to find it myself. Bri

I can tell mines working.........front prop removed and driving round with difflock on.

Hi Clive Thanks for the advise.http://forums.lr4x4.com/public/style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif As mentioned I was going to get a kit but thought as a temporary measure this would do http://forums.lr4x4.com/public/style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif. I'm not that bothered really as to the aesthetics side of things as the truck is rough and ready (door skins riveted back on where they have corroded around the edges, Hammerite Blue is a close enough match for scuffs etc..) as long as it functions for a while then I'm happy. I just didn't want to go putting a screw through a wire or something under the dash creating a job which requires it to be removed anyway, as I have seen how involved this can be!!! How long were the supplied screws, and were they long enough? as I have read elsewhere that people have been supplied ones that were too short. Thanks again Bri

Hi, I think that the two problems are not related. The rattling sounds like it could possibly be a UJ on one of the props on the way out. Mine has gone recently on the front but took a while to find this out as when underneath there was no play that I could feel, but decided to grease them anyway. Then noticed that there was no excess grease coming from one Spigot/Arm/Leg......thingy where the excess comes from.http://forums.lr4x4.com/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif On removal I found two were fine, one had no grease and rusted bearings and one had no bearings left at all and the outer shell was damaged prior to removing. Secondly the fuel light problem would suggest to me that the fuel level sender unit might be on the way out. I seem to remember reading on a forum somewhere about a wire on the bottom needing re-soldering. Hope this helps you. Bri

Hi Underdog, Done mine a while back and I too was confused when i saw the instructions given. General procedure is as follows. 1- remove door card, taking care not to damage the clips 2- undo the bottom retaining bolts for the window runners 3- undo the top retaining bolts (one just above the door catch and the other on the front face) 4- remove the inner mirror trim to allow you access to the mirror wires and disconnect to allow the top of door to be raised 5- I would advise to take digital photos of the lock mechanism to assist rebuild 6- lift top of door, with window about half way up, until you have access behind mechanism 7- remove the linkages including an awkward 7mm I believe on the mechanism end of the inner leaver 7- remove the catch from the door From here you should be able to see where the broken spring is. Rebuild is the reverse of removal. Using the photos as reference as required. Hope this is clearer for you and not put you off too much http://forums.lr4x4.com/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif.once you get stuck in then you will soon see it is not as bad as expected, I got mine down to 30mins per door. Bri

Hi, I've got a '94 300tdi with a lifting dash, not uncommon as i have seen! I was going to buy one of the repair kits but as things are tight at the moment was wondering if just a selftapper with penny washer was viable? If so, what length screw and are there any wires attached to the dash that far foward? I dont want to get involved in stripping the dash out if I dont need to as I've seen its a PITA!!!!! Hope you guys can help Cheers Bri

Bought a cheepy £25 champion one just to tied me over, that was 5 yrs ago and still going strong. having said that now it'll probably stop working soon.

Hi, Little confused as to which polybush kit to go for on my '94 300tdi. has anyone used these before? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390151545022&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT if so, are they any good? as I have not heard of the manufacturer before. Looking at giving it a 2" lift in the future. Are the standard shocks long enough to accommodate this or will I need longer ones? Thank you for any replies

When I bought my '94 300tdi the fan would only work on the slowest speed, bit annoying when trying to clear the screen or drive in the wet. Stripped the center of the dash out to access the control switch intending to replace but noticed it was easy to dismantle. Me being me I opened the switch and cleaned the inside terminals rebuilt and now works on all speeds. Result!!!!

Glad I'm not the only one. Had icicles in mine during the cold weather. Must get the silly-cone out and try to reseal the rear windows as i think that's where 'tis leaking.

How cold was it? This may be of interest. Like most fuels, diesel is a mix of hydrocarbons, and the components have different freezing points. For Number 2 diesel, as the ambient temperatures drop toward 32 degrees F (0 degrees C), it begins to cloud, due to the paraffin in the fuel solidifying. As the temperatures drop below 32 F, the molecules combine into solids, large enough to be stopped by the filter. This is known as the gel point, and generally occurs about 15 degrees F (-9.5 degrees C) below the cloud point. Hope this may help

If there has been no damage I would have thought it would be the spring weakening. This has happened to my mates Range rover trialer on the drivers side.........gives it a gangster lean .

Bit of a competition going on here.....my '94 300tdi just turned 275000 on original engine!!!! Was going strong till it decided to blow an oil cooler pipe and dump the contents on the road . Happy motoring to all

If you do this may I suggest covering the battery so as to avoid any possibility of the terminals accidentally arcing against the slam panel in a collision.

Just bought myself my first Disco, but unfortunatly, the rust moths beat me too it and it's in need of a bit of welding. Lucky enough the boot floor has been done by the one previous owner, so that is one less common area requiring attention. However, the front inner wings do require some, well a fair bit of, welding. Is it easier to remove the outer wing compleatly rather than removing all the accessories (Airbox, ABS unit etc) compleatly from the inner wings? Also, Do I really have 8 seconds to remove the battery cables to avoid SRS warning light problems as I have read on other posts? As if my free time isn't rushed enough