Pinn76

depends if they are 10 or 24 spline. Went to swap the front stubs from my disco (24 spline) to our comp RRC (10 spline) to fit ashcroft CV's, shafts and locker we found that we ended up having to change all of the internals (stubs, CV's, Drive shafts and diff) on the front and the rears have an oil seal on the shaft with a 24 spline axle.

If its a new tow bar that you want I have the one that I took off mine, as I was using it more like a plough. Make me a sensible offer and I'll find out postage for you to your postcode. I've got a Home brewed removable one on mine so surplus to requirements and it'll stop SWMBO nagging it's in the way.

After tapping in with the socket did you give the centre of the coreplug a couple of taps with a small hammer/socket extention? Core plugs are domed and tapping them a couple of times in the middle expands them in the hole locking them in (providing there put the right way in) Blue hylomar wouldn't hurt if used aswell. HTH

Still on thread but not landrover related, I sold a huge fish tank via flea bay a few years back and the buyer worked for the admiralty (servicing navigation bouys) even though he was out at sea communications were very good. I was able to phone him and vice-versa we kept in contact through the auction until the final day to go he informed me that he would be at sea for at least a month after the auction ended.............. Here we go, I thought to myself got myself a time waster here. We kept in contact until he was back in the UK when he phoned to say he was on his way to collect. I can understand your concerns as all sorts of things were going through my head, but it must be hard from their end with all the scammers around. Good choice on reporting them though as this does sound a bit dodgy to me too.

not 100% sure disco 2's were fitted with different mirrors but sounds like you've been sold 300tdi ones to me. I had to replace a glass on my '94 300tdi. It was listed as '94 mirror glass, so bought it not knowing there was a differance. When it arrived it was a lot smaller. Turns out it was for the 200tdi. HTH Bri

I tend to use a screwdriver bit, the ones that come with cordless drills etc and a pair of pliers HTH Bri

Correct me if I'm wrong but, shouldn't your insurance cover you for greenlanes as they are part of the highway, hence the need for seatbelts to be worn, vehicle taxed,MOT'd and insured etc..........seems to me that insurance companies are searching for extra money.

Not too sure about the non-sunroof version but mine was a simple case of working from the rear, removing the trim around the alpine lights then the grab handles and the sun roof controls, That would then leave you the pocket above the windscreen the sun visors and interior light wires. With a bit of manovering here and there it should come out of the rear door. Between the material and plastic/hardboard material there is a thin layer of foam. this seperates the material and plastic/hardboard letting it sag. Mine got sprayed because I got in such a mess with spray adhesive trying to re-attatch it that I gave up and just sprayed it.

I was toying with the idea of installing a 12v ceramic heater in the ducting system after the fan to give instant heat in my disco as it takes a good 1/2hr to even get a slight temperature difference at the screen.

They are sat in-front of the rad on a diy bracket and wired to a switch with warning light on the dash telling us we've not forgot to turn them on. We find that by having them on a switch we can shut them off if entering any deep water. Yes, we did forget to turn them on once, took a good 1/2 hr to get on the warm side so shows they are up to it. Air flow is really good as they will suck in and shred the odd leaf every now and then. HTH. Bri

Our RRC challenge truck (v8) is running 2x air con fans instead of a viscus one. Not had any cooling issues at all while compeating all day.

A bit of advise if you are repairing a saggy lining. Once you have it out of the truck then peel off the material. Lightly brush off the foam and then spray with a satin black or grey. Done it to mine and looks great.

I'm a member of Challenge Southwest who run winch challenge events in the west country. One of our top competitors co-driver has a remote for the winches, all 3 if I remember correctly. If you sign up to the forum I'm sure he would be willing to give you some advise as to what he is using. He goes by the name of 'Odd Limbs' HTH best of luck.

I've put a straight through set up on my 300tdi. MOT'd last month and nothing said about volume, did however get pulled the other day and not a problem. There is nothing in the MOT regs that say there should be a silencer as long as the system is sealed then good to go . Will be getting the volume measured as a precaution as I'm sure there are louder 'jap' cars running round. Didn't go for the side exit but kept it tight behind the bumper pointing downwards. HTH

Simples, open the glovebox and hang bag handles on the catch then close the glovebox. The bag will hang even while taking a greenlane as a shortcut.

Good read..... thanks for the link.

Think you will find it was North Devon. A 'collection' from HMRC drove all the way from Plymouth just to catch him as he was about to leave the football pitch.

Firstly chock a wheel and lift one from the ground(not the chocked one, lol) Next,loosen the cable adjuster located under the centre console to give the cable some free play (black nylon nut which the cable passes through). Adjust the shoes with the 17mm bolt on the 'front' face of the handbrake drum until it just starts to bind, you can feel this by rotating the drum by hand, then back off 1/4 of a turn till it turns freely. Back under the centre console to the cable adjuster, tighten until hand brake travel is around three clicks, bit of a sod but I managed by using a pair of slip-jaw grips and long nose pliers. HTH Bri.

With regards to the jack handle, the drag link tube is exactly the right size to fit the bottle jack. Widen the slot on one end to fit the release screw and then if you want wrap about 1/2 inch thickness of material on the last 6 inches (opposite end to slot) and cover with old bicycle inner tube for a good grip. Works a treat and stows nicely by the passenger side inner wing, tucked behind the air filter box or down beside the drivers seat.

I can second the Mr Muscle, used it myself when Lidl's aint got a cheap oven degreaser (names gone from me now but its in an orange spray bottle and only 70 odd pence IIRC) Both work just as well as Gunk/Jizer.

Great problem solved. Thanks to RM for pointing me in the right direction. After double checking underneath for any damage to the wiring from branches and such like I still couldn't find any problems so decided for some reason to take a look at the back of the fuse box. Found the little blighter.......... .........the wire had dropped off from the back of fuse 14. Just need to replace the broken lenses then good as before. Thanks again RM and happy motoring. Bri

Thanks for the info RM. Been out this morning and checked all fuses and found headlight washer and trailer socket fuses blown (now replaced) Cleaned the earths as mentioned and still no lights , although on the plus side the fuel gauge is apparently working though I'm unsure if its correct, time will tell. Any one else got any ideas as I've run out.

Hi all, After a great day yesterday doing a charity 'non' damaging punch hunt I've got a few issues. The main one being I've lost almost everything on my dash . Halfway through the day and alls going good (apart from the loss of the rear light lens), I stalled the truck, so restarted it and on we went. The SRS warning light came on but flashing the last 's', followed shortly by the rev counter and speedo failing. Engine never faultered so continued on. End of the day came and because the engine was running all afternoon never noticed but came to start to leave and now have no temp gauge, Fuel gauge reading full and no oil,brake fluid level charge lights. When I come to start it now all I have is the SRS warning light on. Engine starts and runs fine and no other faults. I have been out this morning and looked to see if there was damage to the harness in the engine bay and all appears good. Stripped out dash and all good there too. I was thinking along the lines of a plug getting disconnected or loom damaged on something but cant find anything. When I stalled I was sat on the level and accidently put it in 4th instead of 2nd. also the truck is a '94 300TDI. Bri Also forgot to mention Diff lock light also failed but indicator, main beam and ilumination lights still work.

Sorry not to get right back to you. All I did with mine was a cut about 5mm thick groove on the rear lip with a grinder so as to let the water run out from the back then smere some sealer round the offending area. Bit Heath Robinson/aggricultural but like I say its not best of condition and will struggle to get through next mot.