elbekko
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Posts posted by elbekko
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All-weather tyres might as well be called ****-in-all-weather tyres. If you don't need an AT, there's no real reason to get one. And BFG ATs are great until they aren't. They outlast their useful life, and will turn into sketchy iceskates in a few years.
If you want a good summer road tyre, you can't go wrong with a Michelin SUV tyre really. And there are surprisingly many good winter tyres out there. If I had a memory, I'd tell you what brand I have for the Range Rover...
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Merry christmas and all that!
A good 30-40cm of snow here, and a bit sad the Range Rover is 2000km away... but the GLE manages fine
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When I did my first 300TDi cambelt I had a similar issue - until I learned you need to loosen the 3 pulley bolts and allow it to rotate while tightening the belt. The pin needs to be in, so the pump timing doesn't change.
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45 minutes ago, Iain said:
The point about balancing on the wheel hole rather than studs is a good one, especially on these rims where the centre hole may well be imperfect. Not sure how to get round that.
Find the old guy at your tyre shop and ask him to balance it like in the old days. The young guys most likely haven't even heard of a wheel that isn't hub-centric.
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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
@elbekko is the only one I can think of on here that might know, he runs propane on his P38.
Mike
For now, but not for much longer (no longer worth the hassle, so it's getting removed).
@Little mule, generally we just adjust the gap of the plugs to be a little smaller (0.6mm on BPR6ES). The timing curve is also slightly different, but for a generator I doubt that matters much.
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On 12/11/2023 at 9:16 PM, FridgeFreezer said:
Worth saying - fit genuine or at least good quality ignition parts, the stock setup is marginal at best and cheap parts will make it worse.
NGK plugs too.
What about the ignition system on a Bosch/Thor V8 is marginal according to you?
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Did they balance it correctly? As in flat plate on the back, centering on the stud holes, instead of just ramming it on a cone?
I've had to go back to a tyre shop twice because they couldn't get it balanced until I noticed what they were doing...
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52 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:
For inputs or...?
If you can make a voltage divider and understand pull up/down resistors you are 90% of the way there.
Inputs and outputs, yeah. As said, I understand the general concepts, just struggle with gluing it all together, really. I should just properly read up on it, can't be all that difficult. My classes of analog and digital electronics are a long time ago, and even then I understood the concepts fine, but never did proper design of a circuit from scratch.
54 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:You can use the Arduino IDE for ESP32, as I understand it, the Code setup can't be time consuming, but may be worth it when I get a roundtuit.
What I linked is appealing for me as a C#.NET developer
One less hurdle to learn new syntax and a new IDE.
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12 hours ago, Bowie69 said:
ESP32
Ooh, I like this: https://www.nanoframework.net/
For some reason the hardware side of electronics has always slightly eluded me. I get the concepts, but don't ask me to design a complex circuit, for some reason... even though I'd love to, I have many, many ideas on how to improve the P38 with some custom electronics 😛
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It's an interesting idea, and I'm following with interest. Not much to add otherwise.
I've long been a proponent of modular CAN systems in cars, the biggest problem is that they're very closed systems and hard to debug sometimes.
So as a piece of advice: provide very good logging, and a thorough diagnostic interface.
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10 hours ago, Arjan said:
If you're looking into "boosting" your mobile phone signal you have to be very careful as things have changed a lot in Europe.
We used to have some serious - Motorola made - hardwired into the various RR's & LR's in the '90 (ATM - analogue) and later GSM (digital) and modern networks do not like "boosted" signals as it totally %#$~@ the systems and often results in said IMEI to be shut out for a while.
If you want 99 % cover, get a SatPhone.
We use them a lot and some work for data. Not too fast, but for simple E-mail traffic it works.
I'm guessing in this case it's not so much "booster" as it is "repeater", with a bigger, dedicated antenna mounted to the vehicle. It's quite common, especially in modern houses where you'll struggle to get a signal through the insulated concrete walls.
I've seen good things about these, but they're only for US frequencies it looks like: https://www.weboost.com/boosters/vehicle-car
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I usually just use this type of pliers on them:
Right before I bin the infernal things. And yes, I know, they're supposed to be better. I still don't like them.
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I printed some tablet holders in PLA years ago, they warped a bit initially but haven't moved since. And they're permanently mounted on the top of the dashboard.
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It's just a spammer, keeps adding links to quoted messages...
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
It's very tempting but I know how much it costs to have tonnes of spoil taken away if you're not good mates with a farmer with a JCB, would be cheaper to move house!
Very true.
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2 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
That's the kicker - I'm in the same boat, I could afford to buy several nice tools but it's kind of "one in one out" now - the drill press got sold to make way for the milling machine, luckily it can do double duty.
Anyone know how I can fabricate more floor space inside the workshop in a Dr Who style?
Colin Furze has been releasing some interesting videos on the subject
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An electric chainsaw is very nice. I bought a very cheap (wired) one a few years ago. It has more than enough power, and it's great that it's quiet and the chain stops instantly. The biggest issue that one has is that there's only one bolt to hold the blade on, so it likes to move...
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1 hour ago, miketomcat said:
You're quite right, which is why I'm investigating other options. I'm very money and time shy at the moment (unfortunately this is a regular occurrence) and I may need to kick it down the line for now, which of course is exactly what the current engine was doing. Rebuilding the other engine is what I need to do but that doesn't get me to work everyday in the meantime.
Mike
I know. Sucks. If I weren't so far away I'd offer to do the rebuild for you.
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12 hours ago, miketomcat said:The quickest and cheapest solution is find a secondhand 200tdi and switch it. A recon 200 would be lovely but I'm not sure if I can stretch to that at the moment.
I am, sadly, reminded of the Sam Vimes ‘Boots’ Theory of Socio-Economic Unfairness:
QuoteThe reason that the rich were so rich, Vimes reasoned, was because they managed to spend less money.
Take boots, for example. He earned thirty-eight dollars a month plus allowances. A really good pair of leather boots cost fifty dollars. But an affordable pair of boots, which were sort of OK for a season or two and then leaked like hell when the cardboard gave out, cost about ten dollars. Those were the kind of boots Vimes always bought, and wore until the soles were so thin that he could tell where he was in Ankh-Morpork on a foggy night by the feel of the cobbles.
But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that’d still be keeping his feet dry in ten years’ time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet.
It's a difficult pit to get out of, but spending a bit more now might save you a lot of money later on. Because a second-hand 200TDi will probably just have/develop the same problems all the previous ones have had...
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A VW 1.9 TDI? Maybe a bit small for towing duties, but would fit the fuel bill...
Anything clockwork isn't likely to have both power and economy.
On the other hand, I don't think you're likely to have any change of £2500 doing an engine conversion, so might as well just bite the bullet and grab a reman engine?
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3 hours ago, David Sparkes said:
I am looking to 'revive' the concept of the in-car position tracking PC, Memory Map, and TW2, so, following your mention, is a SP8 worthy of attention?
I see it was introduced in late 2021, so should have matured by nowThe SP8 has GPS built in, as long as you get it with the LTE modem (and yes, actual GPS, not just cell tower location). I did have a hell of a time getting OziExplorer to work with the built-in GPS though, needed to put GpsGate in between for some reason. But after that it works flawlessly.
Overall I've been very happy with the SP8. None of it is super intensive use though, I have other devices for that.
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I have a (second hand) Panasonic Toughpad that works ok for this. But lately I've just been using my Surface Pro 8 with a rugged cover on it. It may not be waterproof, but really, who cares in a regular vehicle. And with everything having an SSD these days, using it in a vehicle is no worry.
Navigation-wise, I usually run a mix of Google Maps (/spits in disgust), the built-in Mercedes GPS (when in the GLE), a Garmin GpsMap 62s, Gaia GPS and OziExplorer. With Samsung Dex I can run Gaia on the Surface Pro, and have it on a big screen, which works fairly well. Hopefully Android Subsystem for Windows becomes mature enough soon to directly run Gaia on the Surface Pro, but last time I tried it still crashed (and couldn't log in to my account either).
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9 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
No problems with swarf in the CT scanner then?
A CT won't care about swarf. An MRI on the other hand... could make you rather well-ventilated.
Really glad to hear that, Stephen. Cancer is a proper <insert extremely bad word of choice>.
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Possibly interesting brake upgrade? iBooster
in International Forum
Posted
Came across this on t'interwebs.
A fairly compact electric brake booster that seems to accept some common sized master cylinders.
https://irate4x4.com/threads/ibooster-electric-brake-booster.394316/
Might be an interesting upgrade, or a alternative when doing engine swaps that doesn't need vacuum?