elbekko
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Posts posted by elbekko
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Honestly the Ferret looks to do better than the more expensive ones:
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After a few hours of measuring, and then a few hours of modelling the rear of a P38 in CAD for building a rear bumper, I got the inexplicable urge to have a look at cheapo 3D scanners
Started by looking into the Creality Scan Ferret (~€320) and Scan Ferret Pro (~€400), looks impressive but reviews are mixed. The Revopoint POP 3 (~€580) has better reviews, but a good chunk more expensive, and seems to work best for small features, not larger surfaces. For larger surfaces the Revopoint Range 2 (~€820) seems to get good reviews, and now we're at triple the price of the Creality, and not really worth it anymore...
Anyone here have experience with either of them? My gut tells me the Scan Ferret Pro is probably a good bet, and for what I need it for it'll probably work just fine. But I might be missing out on something way better for not much more cash?
Some reviews I've watched:
I wonder if some of his gripes with scanning larger surfaces can't be fixed with some masking tape with patterns (to provide a feature to follow) instead of sticking the dots everywhere?
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Ok now hold up. The D2 electrical diagram agrees, but not the ECM pinout...
RR:
D2:
And that would make it correct...
Motherf*ckers.
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Ok, someone please save our sanity.
The Bosch uses two of these coils:
Which should work like this:
Now, when looking at the plug diagram in RAVE, it says this:
Which would make the layouts of the coils like this:
At least, that's what all the wiring diagrams claim:
But that doesn't make any sense. The two coils are identical, just rotated 180 degrees. So KB (1&6) should be on pin 1, not pin 3.
All wiring and plug wire locations check out with my running Bosch P38...
I just double checked with the D2 RAVE, and it's identical.
What the *beep beep beep beep **** beep*?
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Tarmac (and thus I assume higher speed?) use will probably want a bit more pressure at those weights.
My Merc GLE at similar weight and on 275/55R19 likes to be around 2.5 bar (empty) to 2.8 bar (loaded), and even 3+ bar (loaded + towing).
My RR, bit lighter, on 265/70R16 likes 2.3 bar (empty) to 2.5 bar (loaded), and 2.8ish bar (loaded + towing).15 hours ago, Green Bob said:Not sure how much science is behind it but the '4 psi rule' seems to be a thing I've seen in car circles.
Inflate tyres to desired pressure, drive until the tyres are warmed up and the psi should increase by 4 psi. More and the pressures are too low, less and the pressures are too high.
On page 2 of this link it suggests to use 6psi for larger tyres.Even better than that is TPMS sensors with a temperature readout.
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I didn't mind the writing. It's not a dry news article, it's a forum post in blog format.
There are some interesting bits of insider info in there.
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11 minutes ago, Escape said:
I'm also starting to wonder if this is why our previous attempt to get a P38 running with MS, almost 10 years ago, never succeeded. We knew (assumed) it was timing, but never figured out what could be wrong.
I have a feeling it may well have been, yes...
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Not sure if it's worthy of an update yet or not. We continued yesterday. Hooked up the scope to the VR, and then the coil output, one by one.
Wrote it down. It looked fine. Tried starting. Nothing.
<insert despair>
Go over everything again. Realise I wrote it down wrong. Realise wrong assumptions have been made from the start.
<more despair>
But there's a sliver of hope. What it comes down to, is that the MS definition of coil A, B, C, D isn't the same as the LR definition of said coils. And for some reason we never realised this, and just kept talking about coil letters, not cylinder numbers.
The result is that MS is firing order ABCD, but as the LR coils are they should go ADCB.We'll have a stiff drink, rewire, revalidate, have another stiff drink, and try starting again.
The mindf*ck isn't improved by the MS having output B&C swapped internally, the wiring loom going GEMS -> GEMS to Bosch coils adapter -> Bosch coils. But we'll get there.
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3 minutes ago, FridgeFreezer said:
things like gearboxes ultimately have some sensors & solenoids to make them work and if the info is too hard to find you can hang some wires off the important bits and reverse-engineer a new controller for it that does what you want with none of the nonsense.
Absolutely, but as you know it's not a simple on/off either. That was my initial motivation for looking into Haltech engine management, as they can do gearbox control. But they warn that they haven't run it on a 4HP24E yet, so tuning is up to the user. If you can just talk to the original ECU instead, you don't have to worry about replicating thousands of hours of OEM development time...
19 minutes ago, simonr said:If anything, it's become easier! More modern vehicles have more individual networks as well as bridges between them - which limit the amount of data traffic on any one network.
My general approach has been to build / write a 2 port bridge and insert it between the ECM and the thing you want to control. All traffic has to flow through the bridge.
Initially, you just block individual packets from reaching the device, and look for when it starts to malfuction. This will tellyou the address of the device from the ECM's point of view. The packets sent by the device will give you the addresses of everything it wants to talk to. You then just filter out everything outside that address range. If it continues to work, you know you've got everything.
Then it's relatively easy to see which packets change with things like RPM or Temperature. Try waiting for a packet addressed to the device to come from the ECM, change the data and send it on to the device. Some devices require the timing of packets to be accurate - so letting the ECM initiate the transfer, avoids that mostly.
By breaking down the problem, it becomes much easier & quicker to solve.
This was the last one I made: https://github.com/SimonRafferty/Polaris-GENERAL---CANBUS-Bridge
But I've used the same hardware & software configuration several times.That seems like a solid approach, and indeed similar to what I've been meaning to do. Just haven't gotten around to actually doing it...
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4 minutes ago, simonr said:
The reason is JLR (and other manufacturers) guard this info very closely! I worked for a company who had bought (and it was a LOT of money) the list of CAN PID's for Range Rover. They wouldn't even let me look at it! The NDA appeared to list the specific people permitted to view the data. They were developing the surround-view camara system for JLR & even though they were working on a project for JLR, they still had to buy the info. Even their list was redacted to the extent that some of it had to be reverse-engineered.
I was surprised by the level of secrecy!
Precisely. And sadly reverse engineering this stuff is what scares off a lot of people - me half included. I've been meaning to do it for ages, but haven't gotten around to it. And I wouldn't be surprised if JLR goes after people sharing that info either, even if they reverse engineered it themselves...
Years ago I reverse-engineered the radio to CD changer communication (BMW IBus), which already had a bit of open-source documentation. I never got that to work reliably, even though it should've been stupidly simple. It would randomly stop communicating, probably because there was some secret handshake that I hadn't seen in the logs.
And that was a simple protocol with a dozen messages that are all triggered by buttons. Reverse engineering ECM to gearbox communication will most likely be a lot more involved, although hopefully in '99 it wasn't so bad yet.The VW @AlWorms built is most likely a lot easier because VW is very modular, and it all speaks largely the same language - so it's more convincing the modules that they *want* to talk to each other, not as much *how* they talk to each other.
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1 hour ago, FridgeFreezer said:
True, although your Merc is quite new still - by the time it's a bit older people will have worked more of it out as more of them fall into the hands of tinkerers.
Well, the Merc I'm not really messing around with CANbus stuff, just want to program some options in the modules so maybe it'll tiddle me off less often
But even for the P38, there's barely any information available on the CAN messages between the Motronic and ZF gearbox. Maybe I haven't searched enough, or correctly. Even the incorrect-answers-machine doesn't pretend to know:
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8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
and anything not niche gets reverse-engineered in China and flogged on eBay for $5.99 where it might previously have been a locked down dealer-only dongle costing hundreds.
Yes and no. I've been going through sort of this with the Mercedes. Everything is available on the interwebs (mainly MHHauto), you just need to figure it out, and trawl through the millions of people that say "pm me, I can do it for you for money". No thanks, that's not what I want to do.
But on the flipside, I did manage to get talking to it with a €180 Tactrix OpenPort, and a €30 "donation" to get access to MHHauto to obtain all the software.The biggest issue is that all the information is closely guarded, and nobody wants to properly document any of it. There are some libraries of known CAN messages and such, but they're very limited. If that wasn't the case, it would be very simple to integrate CAN systems.
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I was happy with the EBCs on my Classic, I think on the P38 I've just been running the stock stuff, which also work well enough considering the rest of the system needs a bit of work.
I'm not sure you'll notice much difference between the good brands. Your limits will be overall system pressure, piston size and disc heat capacity.
A while back I posted about the iBooster, an electric brake booster that apparently gives a lot of assist. That might be worth looking into?
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But it is running...? All a bit strange really. Could be it's not wanting to go into gear because the brake isn't seen as pressed. Try to keep mashing the brake pedal until the message goes away, in case it's a bad connection inside the brake switch?
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Nothing on the dash either? I'd think the gear position sensor is dead then, no clue how easy that would be to reach on the side of the road.
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Fusion 360 has a free for personal use option. It'll take a steep learning curve to make that part, but shouldn't be too difficult I think?
Or throw up some measurements on here, and I'm sure someone will be bored enough to help at some point.
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2 minutes ago, landroversforever said:
I wonder if it’s something to do with data/info from each of the parts manufacturers and what’s allowed to be shared in different jurisdictions.
Reeks of IP issues, indeed.
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I hope the freeze plugs popping out is all that happened, my 300TDi didn't like freezing and cracked the block...
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That's nice. Reminds me of some of the old PistonHeads builds.
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You could probably start selling those and bring in some pennies towards petrol for Sid
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Just the sound insulating mats alone will sag the suspension a good bit.
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Interesting analysis of the winch rings:
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24 minutes ago, SteveG said:
That’s looks to be a useful piece of kit Ben. Just looked it up and I see it does Canbus decoding too. That could be handy, along with verifying sensors. 👍
Indeed. And surprisingly cheap at Farnell, should've gotten it ages ago! Takes a bit of a learning curve though.
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Made some progress yesterday
On 2/5/2024 at 10:36 AM, elbekko said:Sadly no scope of any kind to hand, no, but should be able to borrow one at some point.
Solved that issue
And then had a look at the VR output:
So that at least confirmed the VR is good.
Now, the MegaManual is confusing as hell, here. But if we're reading it correctly, the ECU can basically be wired internally to either look at the rising or falling edge, and thus even though you wire + to +, it can still depend on the ECU/VR combo if it's looking at the correct side of the signal and seeing a double gap or not.
Anyway, cut the wires for the VR, swapped them, and now we seem to be getting a much more consistent trigger log. Forgot to take a picture, but consistently 35 tooth gaps now.
Next up will be verifying the coil timing again, but it got a bit too late for that yesterday. Getting closer.
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200 front swivels
in Discovery Forum
Posted
My late RRC with 24 spline was roller bearings, I'm pretty sure.