jad
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Posts posted by jad
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Errrm yup! Why?
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Been cracking on with the hubs. I am (nearly) at a stage where I can bleed the brakes!
But unfortunately the threads on one of the front hubs is a bit buggered so needs replacement. Will then be able to chuck that on, make 3 lengths of brake pipe, rear axle and front right brake, bleed them and I will be able to stop! so now just need to make it go.... Easy right? Anyway seams like a step forward so has made me happy 
Jad
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Copied from the ashcroft website......
When we send a unit out, we charge a core deposit which is refunded upon receipt of the old unit assuming it is the same type as supplied and must be complete and not stripped with an intact casing, these core charges vary depending on the type supplied as detailed in the relevant section.
Jad
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Its not the "tree" you have to worry about, Its when it turns into a very silver glittery type sludge. This is what mine did when it was self destructing.
Jad
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Now I wonder how much all the attached external ally panels would knock off that? Why?
Considering having a fully repaired shell galvanised and they charge by the kilo!
They charge per kg of zinc usually. So they weigh before and after to determine the amount of zinc used. You shouldnt have to worry about the weight of the body itself! I think...
Jad
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Erm cant you just try it an see??? Then you would like know....
Jad
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I can identify the 316 cos it has it written on it
Did you send the part back? I have read very mixed reviews of their custom built exhaust on the internet that vary from brilliant to woeful. Not sure if they have changed hands a couple of times or if people just expect wildly different standards...
I havent noticed any distortion... although I havent tried to refit it yet after properly welding it! So I could be in for a right treat
Jad
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Thanks guys.
The parts were from a few places and now I think about it I cant say its all 304 or 316 stainless as the Y-piece is from jetex... I called and asked them and was told its from the 300 series of metals but they didnt know which, so frankly it could be anything! but it wasnt magnetic
I chose it cos to me it was the best flowing looking double 2.5" to single 2.5" pipe I could find.The 45, 90 bends and silencer were from http://www.mijexhaust.com/ who told me everything was going to be 304 but turned out to be a mix of 316 and 304. Not really a problem but its always nice to be told the correct information.
The 30 degree bends down from the manifolds were from pipe werx They do a good variety of bends and 30 degrees doesnt seem all that common.
Unfortunately there are a couple of different wall thicknesses which wont be great for flow but the manifolds are such a poor design it doesnt bother me too much. If I ever get around to supercharge/turbo'ing it then the whole exhaust would probably be changed anyway! But that would be many years into the future
and a number of other mods would need to be completed as well!Cheers
Jad
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Wooh I have half an exhaust! So we started in the middle... and then went to one side and then went to the other. All in all I'm very happy with it (as long as its gas tight....)
Unfortunately we found out after we tacked it together that we couldnt take it out without lifting the gearbox a little
But such is life. Hopefully we will put it in and it wont need to come out again.... Fat chance!
I also managed to set myself on fire a little
cheers
Jad
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I believe the series cable is triangular? and fits in the defender lt230 but the defender cable is square and wont fit in the series transmission... Although everything I am sure can be modded!
Waiting to be corrected!
Jad
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So glad I saw this I was gonna buy alllll of the individual seals and that looks like an expensive weight of doing things!
Thanks
Jad
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I've got a timer in the Volvo. I often let it time out too. I'd like to apologise to everyone for buying the car.
Snap. My 740 is cracking and was only £280 and the insurance was less
but im not apologising -
The heater isnt controlled with a flow valve on earlier defenders but a flap in the heater matrix box to direct air. There is however a flow valve on puma engine defenders. I am not sure about TD5's. So for 300's will make no difference.
Jad
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Thanks Soren. I hope fabrication really is as good as it looks! Its the first time my dad and I have done something custom like this, having previously rebuilt mine and his defenders. Its nice to get good comments from people (I am also willing to take constructive criticism!
)I forgot to say the exhaust is all stainless (apart from the joints to the manifold) I was told all the exhaust would be 304 but when it arrived it was 316 and 304 but from some googling they appear to be quite similar so am not too bothered. I imagine at some point I will make some tubular stainless headers for the car and replace the mild steel connections but this will be after the car is finished and on the road. At this point I would like to just get it running! I dont know if anyone has seen the standard LS400 exhaust manifolds but they really are an abortion... Some horses should be easily extracted even from a not particularly well designed home made manifold compared to these.
The only silencer I currently have is 4" by 12" on a 2.5" pipe so is more cherry bomb size than silencer! I was expecting to have the silencer further forward above the gbox X-member so did not think I had as much room. really could have got something bigger maybe 6" in diamter. I will probably be adding another one at the rear of the car just before it exits under the rear X-member.
Cheers
Jad
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Started some work on the exhaust now. was hoping to get some done at christmas but thats always the way!
So far just started the right hand side of the Y down to the Y Join. We were only working for about 5 hours so not a great deal done. Pics say the talking really...
Ill be going home this coming friday to do some more so should hopefully get at least the Y pipe done and if not more. We have decided not to make the exhaust all the way to the end so that if I want to add another silencer this can be done. With the size of the current one being pretty small I can imagine this happening. Although we dont want to make it to quiet do we
Jad
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Time for an update! Its been a while. This is because we have been going 1 step forward and 2 steps back! Well it now feels like we have made some progress, so that requires an update!
We are finally happy with the welding and the castor angle on the front axle! so its now been finished off and painted.
The springs have also been cleaned up and are in surprisingly good condition like the rears were.
This conversion also presents the problem of one U-bolt, next to the diff needing to be non standard. Currently we have made this one from 2 old ones. We are currently planning to make one (and a spare) out of new high tensile bar.
My dad has posted on a welding forum with regards to how to make it. Cold or hot bending etc. If anyone has any ideas on what is best please message me.
The front wheel arches have also been tidied up by cutting down some defender arches and tucking and riveting them in. They did wrinkle a little as there were obviously not mean to fit here. The use of a heat gun and pressing them flat while cooling helped this somewhat.
We have also started on the exhaust. We started in the middle
Lord knows why. I think it was because it gave us something to aim for...
I was hoping to get this completed before I started work again but as usual there has been other delays. (My Volvo's handbrake cable needed replacing and there was something else called Christmas shopping....) Also discovered today the Volvo's other handbrake cable, yes there are 2
, is nearly rusted through and needs replacing. Oh well its all fun!Cheers
Jad
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On the 2.2 defender engine if you load the engine up and then put the clutch in quickly the turbo stalls. I said it was possible, I didnt say it was pretty
Probably possible on the 2.4 puma as well.
Jad
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the only diesel Landrovers with a butterfly were some of the series ones which used it to create a vacuum for the servo brakes before they started fitting a vac pump.
Incorrect, the newer engines TDV6 etc also have throttles.
It is also possible to make the turbo stall on a defender. This is due to the pressure difference across the turbo. As they have wastegates already would a dump valve not help to stop this and keep it spinning? or could it not react quick enough?
Jad
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Could an airlock in the coolant system cause these problems?
Jad
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Alas my experiences with an Xbrake are similar:- if it is adjusted up so that the truck won't move when stationary, then it causes judder when accelerating, eventually leading to the pads overheating. If you slacken it off (having replaced the brake pads) so that it does not judder then you have to park it in gear or risk the truck taking off down the hill.
After numerous attempts at adjustment etc I gave up and went back to the drum.
You must be doing it wrong... There are thousands of happy people out there. I am one of them. I do get a bit of rattling from the pad, my sticking it in so it doesnt rattle didnt last that long. It stops the cars well on slopes and there is no judder/grabbing at all when moving.
Jad
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does the radiator get warm at all?
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sounds like your new thermostat isnt very good. I just had this problem with my volvo. Engine was shown as up to temp on the gauge. I was getting luke warm air on fan setting 1 and 2 and would go cold on 3 and 4. no amount of bleeding would help and i wasnt losing any coolant. New thermostat cured it. I now get boiling hot air coming out the heater
Its like a sauna. Hopefully its not over heating with the dodgy coolant temp gauge...Go for a genuine or Wax stat thermostat (OEM was wax stat in my 200tdi anyway...)
Jad
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http://www.51allout.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/Mr-Bump.jpg
Cough Cough new avatar cough... Quick before he gets back!
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Maybe he should hurt himself little and often? rather than saving it up for one big crack! Good to hear he is OK.
Jad
But unfortunately the threads on one of the front hubs is a bit buggered so needs replacement. Will then be able to chuck that on, make 3 lengths of brake pipe, rear axle and front right brake, bleed them and I will be able to stop! so now just need to make it go.... Easy right? Anyway seams like a step forward so has made me happy 
and a number of other mods would need to be completed as well!
But such is life. Hopefully we will put it in and it wont need to come out again.... Fat chance!
but im not apologising
Lord knows why. I think it was because it gave us something to aim for...
, is nearly rusted through and needs replacing. Oh well its all fun!
Lexus 109 “Koya”
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
No that would be very annoying! Its the thread on the stub axle for the whee bearing nuts so should be an easily bolt off bolt on job. Anyone got a spare lying around?
ta
jad