jad
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Posts posted by jad
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Just ordered the megasquirt from Nige so gonna get my dad building that! Just need to sort the radiator, oil filter adaptor, lines and filter, exhaust and fuel pipes. Then change the axles and sort some props for it! Might put a borg warner Tbox on as well so need to sort that before I get the front prop done.....
Brakes might be a good idea as well
Jad
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Unfortnately the fuel tank is behind the pto so there isn't much room behind there! And for 4 exhausts I would have to buy another Lexus :-S
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Not much done today. Lots of repairing the bulkhead rather than making the passenger side footwell. I did however remove the lexus exhaust and played about with the tip finishers.... Cleaned and polished them up a bit without going too crazy...
The shamelessly modelled them on my car even though I currently only have exhaust manifolds
Think these may have to be incorporated!
Jad
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Paddocks are cheaper than that and free delivery... http://www.paddockspares.com/parts-and-accessories/land-rover-discovery-1/brakes/front-axle.html#p=2
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Thanks
Its not often you have to change a clutch pedal! I think I will leave it as is for now and then if I dont like the positioning I can always modify the pedal at a later date. Might be worth me getting a seat in there though to see how it feels this weekend.
Jad
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hmmmm possibly..... But I think I would prefer to leave he pedals as manufactured. Ill just have to learn to drive it slightly differently as opposed to using just the left hand side of the clutch pedal!
Jad
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Got more done on Sunday. The footwell was welded up more until we ran out of gas......
We then set about cutting the bulkhead up and positioning the pedals. Luckily they arent too close together. The clutch pedal is a little closer to the side of the footwell than I would like but then not much could be done about this as its up against the steering collumn...
Then we put the front panel in place and put the bonnet on to find out it nearly closes! A small tweak to the bonnet should sort that out though.....
And thats it for the weekend. I have to say im quite tempted to buy a YRM defender passenger footwell panel to repair the other side just to save some time.
Cheers
Jad
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Today saw some more work on the drivers side bulkhead footwell.
The inside of the bulkhead pillar was blasted today to get rid of paint/ rust etc before the footwell is welded together and then galvanised later on. Welding it together will happen tomorrow. And then on with positioning the clutch, steering collumn, brake pedal box and accelerator.
Today I also fitted the steering pump to the engine. Unfortunately due to the size of the power steering pump pulley this clashes with the power steering box! So this will have to be spaced further off the chassis....
I also got hold of a radiator and frame thanks to vulcan bomber. This will have to be cut down as it sits next to the power steering box and then the radiator lengthened to give enough cooling for the engine...... Crosses fingers/big fan!
Another update will arrive tomorrow!
Jad
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Its a pity your running on simex. So much power wasted!
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Hmmmmmm I wonder if Vulcan bomber can make me something else.......
Got any of the material left from making the engine/gearbox adaptor??? 
Cheers Soren. I cant wait either! but think im going to have to for quite a while
Jad
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Another Update.
We have started repairing and modifying the bulkhead to get rid of the rust and allow defender pedals to be fitted as I'm now using a defender clutch and axles etc
These show the old foot well with the clutch pedal moved over to the drivers side as much as possible. I wanted a bit more room for the engine and to put the pedals a bit lower while keeping the steering column in the standard position.
The old foot well was cut out.
A new foot well was cut up and bent to be of a more defender shape and to mount the brake master servo slightly lower to fit under the wing/bonnet. The drivers side panel for the footwell was also made and both clamped on the bulkhead to weld them together.
Thats it for now. Unfortunately I am busy for the next few weekends so nothing will be done for a while!
Jad
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I had thought about making another cross member as a clamp on fixing if I require it between the front and gearbox cross member.
Ill get the car built and then see how it runs before engineering any anti wrap parts.
Jad
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As far as anti wrap is concerned I haven't currently thought about it. Im planning on using the standard Iron girder springs so was thinking it wouldnt be too much of a problem.... I think I will suck it and see re the panhard rod. If its a wee bit shaky ill see what can be knocked up. Having galved the chassis now though im not looking to modify it any further! Im not too bothered about articulation so that wouldnt be a problem.
Cheers
Jad
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In that case I wont be having one! dont need the extra weight
Just remembered y it took so long to get the tub on spent some time straightening the rear corners out....
Jad
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Little things tend to take for ever, but that's why we do it right? To overcome those challenges
Out of curiosity, are you going to be adding traction bars, panhard bars and disk brakes, seeing as it's going to be a fast-ish vehicle?
Do you mean for anti-wrap? I wasnt going to put a panhard rod on as it is leaf sprung. Will it need one cos of the power steering? It is going to have a set of disco 24 spline axles going on at some point. They need taking off the disco and modifying first.....
Ill do my best not to crash it! When I was looking at the diff movement I measure it only moves about 7.5mm but that didnt take into account any bump on both springs at the same time....
Jad
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Today we redrilled the brake like holes and put some clips in. The first peice of bodywork went on! Also put the seatbox on and started modifying it to fit around the gearbox. Doesnt seem like a lot but its taken all day!
Jad
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Thank you Soren. The only other landy I have seen it in is the discovery below, but is currently only running 2WD. Would be nice to find some more info on it, Will have to ask him if he has a build thread....
Jad
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Bit more of an update today.
Took the engine etc apart today fitted the clutch and including slave cylinder. The engine adaptor and engine needed grinding away slightly for it to fit though. Also changed the seal between the Gbox and Tbox and fitted the cross drilled input gear.
Also fitted the engine etc into the shiny chassis!
Also fitted the fuel tank using some modified shock abosorber bushes after being told by dingocroft I could by PART of a 109 fuel tank mounting kit for fifty something quid!
And finally another job not high on the list of things to do is making a guard to stop anything from spraying into the bellhousing.
More to come tomorrow
Jad
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Just a brief update. The chassis is now ready!
Made a few more mods. Strengthened up the rear outriggers just a little for some rock sliders to act as SIPS and for when people open car doors into it....
and made mounts for the remote oil filter, an extra exhaust mount and some to attach the seat belt brackets to.
Here it is finished (with the rear axle still attached so my mum and dad can get it on the trailor while im not there....)
Also drilled some holes for brake pipes and to mount the radiator on the front cross member.
Next will probably be of it all shiny
Jad
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the pistons on the right hand side are in there handbrake on positions they should be more into the cylinder then you would be able to get the hand brake drum on. Another question is why are the springs not pulling the shoes in when the cable is loose. So you may have installed the bits incorrectly.
Jad
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Very cool, and the adapter is sooo nice...good luck
P.S.
What happened to the old inline-6?
Cheers and it was advertised, unwanted and weighed in!
It hadnt been used in a number of years and only seemed to run at a few thousand RPM or not at all. I have no experience with them or carbs so didnt fancy trying to fix it. Was beautifully smooth though! -
Bit more of an update.
Turned the spigot bush up.
Also put the gearbox cross member brackets in and modded the cross member to suit. As you can see there are a couple of spare mountings further back. They are there just n case I need a stronger gearbox in the form of a very expensive R380 from ashcroft! with a longer bellhousing.
Also took off the brackets for the series steering relay. Originally I wanted to use the series steering relay box but the engine put engine got in the way of everything!
Also moved one of the permanent cross members back further to allow a longer gbox to be fitted if needed.
Thats it for now. Not as much as I wanted to acheive over the weekend but isnt that always the way!
Jad
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Cheers Everyone.
Vulcan Bomber did a very good job and I am very pleased with the result. Im not sure how his boss would react to him doing more work though. Would definitely have to ask for his permission beforehand....
I havent tried asking lexus for parts yet. The engine is actually toyota who seem to be better with parts. I need to get 8 flywheel bolts at about £3.50 a pop. On ebay a timing belt kit is 135 and a waterpump is 80. Im sure (crosses fingers) there must be a better source for parts....... On the other hand i bought a complete car for under £500 with an lpg kit.....
A few updates. After quite a long time of deciding where to put the engine this morning we knocked up some engine mounts.
We hung the engine in and then tacked the mounts into their final resting place.
Which put the engine in its position! Gbox cross member supported by axle stand as I want to modify it....
Just to show you how much clearance there is around the engine/gbox/tbox here are a few pics.
And a picture from the Tbox output the front diff. Not as much room as I would like under the sump but I think it should be fine.... Would like the get one of the "skinny halfshaft" type props you sometimes find under defender and RRC V8s to be sure.
Anyway time for bed! Night all.
Jad
Got any of the material left from making the engine/gearbox adaptor??? 
~2 inch Propshaft spacer
in International Forum
Posted
Just gauging peoples thoughts on this.
Currently building my project up in the members sections. I fancy fitting a borg warner Tbox from a 3.9/4.2 classic to it to improve its on road traction. This also has the benefit of moving the front output flange ~2 inches back giving me a slightly better prop angle and hence more clearance on my sump. I am going to have a solid "skinny" prop made up and am a little worried how long the borg warner will survive with ~280Hp and 260lbft going through it. I was thinking though that if I used a spacer to move the prop ~2 inches (Same distance the BW moves the Tbox flange back) back off the front diff then if I find the BW Tbox to fail quickly then I can replace it with an LT230, bin the spacer and bobs your uncle the prop I had made would still fit! And if the BW doesnt fail then the spacer would give me a bit more clearance on my sump! Can you tell i am slightly worried about clearance?
If this is an option does anyone know if you can get longer propshaft bolts that would accommodate a 50mm spacer?......
Cheers
Jad