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jad

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Posts posted by jad

  1. Hi Guys

    I recently bought some clear fuel pipe to see if my fuel was draining back/air was getting in. I know I have a leak from on top of the fuel filter, from either the banjo bolt or bleed screw. I will be replacing the copper washers this weekend as they have been crushed one too many times. However ignoring this leak when I turn my car off the fuel pipe from the fuel filter to the injection pump slowly fills with air. The air is coming from the top of the filter where the leak is when its running as there are no bubbles coming from the injection pump end. I cannot see however where the fuel is draining out... There are no damp patches around the injection pump or the pipes going to the injectors. The timing case is bone dry. I also cracked the injectors off and the speed of draining did not change. At one point I took the fuel cap off and my mate said the level dropped in that tube a couple of cm's.

    The car runs well in general. It can be a bit lumpy at idle and when it gets cold it can be very lumpy when starting until its warmed up. It also tends to missfire, worse when cold until its been running for a short while.

    I recently changed the head gasket and thermostat, when it overheated (not too badly but got up to 95. It used to stay at 81 all the time). Faily sure this was due to the thermostat but wanted to remove the head anyway. The head gasket had a crack in it and one of the cylinders had been blowing into the no 6 head bolt cavity but not into the coolant or oil system. I put a proper Elring head gasket on of the correct hole size.

    I am fairly sure most of the irregular running problems at startup rom cold and its uneven idle also sometimes when warm are due to the fuel problem, but am not sure where to start. as I dont know where the fuel is going!

    Can anyone give me a idea of where to start?

    Thanks for your help and feel free to ask any questions of things I can check to provide more information.

    Jad

  2. we had a guy in our club that built one out of 5mm. Everytime it hit something the vehicle stopped dead. It didnt take long for him to make the ends bolt on so they would snap off if they hit something.... Then he obviously had to pick then ends up..... Then he started using cable ties when he ran out of bolts, they were also quicker.... Then he went back to a standard bumper!

    nice job though!

  3. Hi does any one know the pcd of the flywheel bolt holes? I have read they are not concentric, if so does anyone have something saying the locations of the bolts holes from the centre?

    I ask as I am seeing if it is possible to put the flywheel on a different engine and the hole look as though they line up pretty well as shown.

    post-19190-0-64021100-1330862983_thumb.jpg

    cheers

    Jad

  4. Hi I am trying to establish which copper washers I need to buy for the fuel filter housing as mine is leaking. I want the 4 either side of the banjo bolts and the bleed screw washer. I have found....

    522940

    http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/1055/522940-COPPER-WASHER.html?search=fuel%20copper%20washer&page=1

    ERR1304 which I believe are the ones for the banjo bolts

    http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/5174/ERR1304-SEALING-WASHER-COPPER.html?search=fuel%20copper%20washer&page=1

    and

    ESR354

    http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/5868/ESR354-COPPER-SEALING-WASHER.html?search=fuel%20copper%20washer&page=1

    are any of these suitable for the bleed screw? If not could someone point me in the right direction?

    Thanks

    Jad

  5. Hi Im just in the process of mounting a p38 steering box to the outside of a series 3 chassis. I have made up the following mount....

    post-19190-0-38802500-1330211600_thumb.jpg post-19190-0-61734900-1330211603_thumb.jpg post-19190-0-04600600-1330211594_thumb.jpg

    Do you think the large plate on the side is needed? or would I be ok with just the 2 folded mounts on the top and bottom?

    Its about 6mm steel.

    Thanks

    Jad

  6. Mine was making a noise for a while. It eventually went when I was off road on a hill. Then I couldnt depress the clutch/change gear unless the engine wasnt running. When we changed it, it was a bubbly molten mess. Not saying it will happen to yours thats just my experience. Didnt do any other damage that im aware of though.

    Jad

  7. Is there much difference to the release bearings apart from length? I was thinking of getting the all ali release bearing from rakeaway.....

    Im putting a 1uzfe in from the lexus ls400 in a 109. I bought it off bowie on here. When hanging the engine, standard lexus gearbox and toyota tbox in the rear propshaft was at a horible angle that would have not worked. Therefore last weekend I decided to go manual with lt230. I thought it would be easier to mate a different engine to gearbox than the lt230 to the auto lexus gbox. It solved some problems and created some! The r380 should be able to cope as the 1uzfe is max 350Nm (260lbft) although it produces ~270Nm (200lbft) from 1000rpm. I do have a gearbox cooler which I will be fitting.

    Jad

  8. Thanks. Im making an engine/gearbox adapter using a short r380/LT77 setup for the gearbox with standard clutch and probably custom flywheel. That measurement will allow me to work out the overall thickness that the engine/gearbox adapter needs to be to position the gearbox the standard distance away from the flywheel, therefore putting the clutch in the correct location and making sure the splines are fully inserted! I hope.....

    I will put a build in the members section at some point.....

    Cheers

    Jad

  9. Hi

    That is plenty enough accurate thank you very much. Can you tell me why you specified 11 o'clock? It should be the same at any position surely? and I assume that it is recessed by 12.9? so the flywheel cover comes further towards the rear of the vehicle than the flywheel?

    Thanks

    James

  10. Does anyone have a 200tdi engine sitting around with the flywheel attached that they can measure the depth/protrusion of the face of the flywheel from the flywheel housing? I would like the measurement to be pretty accurate if possible.

    Thanks for your help

    Jad

  11. You could try changing the lift pump.

    Also out of interest has anyone ever fitted one of the thicker head gaskets to reduce the compression ratio? so gone from a 1 hole to 2/3 hole? and then increase the boost pressure and fueling a lot more? This would obviously give greater peak power but probably reduce power when the turbo is not spooled up. How higher pressures can the turbo cope with?

    Jad

  12. there are standard manufacturers cars that already have both a supercharger and turbo. They are probably slightly more refined than the above example though. The SC V8 diesel hot rod i saw did not have a chargecooler or intercooler but it did have a bug catcher scoop so constantly taking in cold air.

    I have heard that that electric turbos are on there way and give zero lag but have no first hand experience with them. (imagine they would be slightly more advanced than the things you currently get on ebay)

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