jad
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Posts posted by jad
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The stat is fairly new as the last one stuck shut and chucked half the coolant out! It was a wax stat. I ordered OEM or Genuine cant remember now. The temp tends to sit at 88 in normal driving in hot weather and 82 in cold weather. Only goes up to 91 when pushing on... The rad is in very good condition, recored with an HD core and I dont run a fan.
Maybe I am just impacient in waiting for it to warm up!
I did find a thread saying the Series 3 valve was 1/2BSP but cant find what the 200 head is.
Cheers
Jad
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Does anyone know if the threads are the same? Is it ok just to block the flow through the heater rather than having a bypass? Land rover thought it was worth it for the TDCI's. Im guessing it would reduce the emissions by having a faster warm up time. I havent timed how long it takes for my engine to warm up but will do next time i drive it but every little helps! Its very cold at 6 45 in the morning!
Thanks
Jad
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Hi
Has anyone fitted a control valve to the coolant circuit of the older engines (pre-tdci) to allow them to heat up quicker? Was thinking of something like the TDCI part ie http://www.brit-car.co.uk/shopimages/products/normal/JQD500080.jpeg or something off of ebay like http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251148276472?_trksid=p5197.c0.m619
If you have what did you fit and has it made much of an improvement? The 200 is taking quite a bit longer to heat up now its getting colder!
Cheers
Jad
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http://i205.photobucket.com/albums/bb201/trailerfitter/ve_blowup.jpg
if your "rubber saucepan" is item no 339 on the link then there shouldnt be water/fuel coming out of it... Its there to allow the diaphragm (67/43) to move under boost so its pushing against the spring (67/47) rather than pushing against a greater than ambient air pressure, therefore allowing more fuel to be injected. If you are leaking fuel from here it sounds like a seal has gone letting fuel in and probably not injecting more fuel under boost, hence your engine being sluggish. I would take off the top cover plate, 4 screws (67/49) and have a look under the diaphragm. Mark its orientation first so you know where to put it back. You will have to rotate it to remove it. when its out do not use the accelerator as I believe that makes putting the diaphragm back in very hard/impossible.
Jad
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Costco
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I have oil pressure!
70psi Cold Idle
15psi Hot Idle
40 Psi Hot 60mph
Much better than ZERO!!!
I ended up replacing the both gears, had to source another idler gear as the gen one brit car sent had been dropped by someone at some point and had dents in a couple of teeth! (Not blaming britcar they were going to send me another tuesday, but will now ask for a refund on monday) Luckily Marshalls of bedford manage to get me one ready at 8 40 saturday morning after calling at 5 30 friday night! Now thats not bad service and it wasnt any more expensive than britcar which is a bonus!
Also changed the pressure relief plunger and spring. The spring that was in their was just over 70mm. I found from the 200 manual that it should be 67.7mm long uncompressed. The genuine one I bought according to the britpart ruler I was using
was just over 68mm.Also changed the o ring and copper washer in there. But I am now a very happy man
Thanks for all the help.
Jad
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Or they might do the opposite...
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mole grips/wrench/weld something to it you can turn?
Jad
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Mine comes out here now. Couldn't find a picture of it finished with the exhaust ring.
Jad
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although lots of people say 8mm is fine too and im not going bigger just for the sake of paying more!
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5/8" oil lines. 1/2" fuel lines
I have tried looking for the fittings but haven't been able to find them. Will have a proper look after work!
Jad
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Mostly Aussies I think... I cant find anyone using smaller than -10 or 5/8s for oil lines. They use -8 1/2" for the fuel lines
I can go up in size on thinkauto to M18x1.5 or M22x1.5 ports. Doesnt anyone know what internal diameter of a male connection with these threads would be?
Cheers
Jad
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Yeah I know. Am going to use one of those. I have taken the oil cooler off the engine as well which will gives me more room and will put it onto the remote filter mount.
Jad
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A la google, oil pressure when cold can go up to 120psi and at hot idle down to 30psi.
Most people seem to recommend -10AN lines for the 1uz just cant find any mounts with greater than 1/2BSP or NPT. Have fount one that has enough material to be redrilled and tapped though.....
Cheers
Jad
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My dad just made what seems like a fairly sensible observation. If you look at the picture of the driven gear in the pump you can see that the splines are worn unevenly and broken up. I wouldnt mine betting this is the source of the fragments we found. The shaft that drives the gear looks to be in good condition though. If this is where it has come from then hopefully it was these bits causing the low oil pressure and with a change of gears everything will be dandy..... (Crosses fingers)
Jad
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The housing on mine is fine so am reusing it. Already ordered new genuine gears! Ta
Jad
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No photos were taken! No one needs to see the bodging
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Alterations have been made
It is going to fit 
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If there was a prize. You just won it!
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Hmmm wish there was a no oil pressure column! With big ends/mains I would have thought I would hear something! Ill change the gears next weekend and rebuild it see if there is a difference. If that doesn't make a difference I might try experimenting by replacing the relief valve spring with an Iron rod
Cheers Jad -
Surely though it could start to suck air at a certain pressure (40PSI) and then not stop? If the gears are capable of building 40 psi of pressure then I don't see why the pressure would just drop to 0 all of a sudden? Jad
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Ooh does work but I thought it would be more creative! lol Jad
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Well I decided to use a BorgWarner transfer box because this is going to be more of a road car but the ****ing thing is wider than the lt230! so since we positioned everything with the lt230 on the BorgWarner doesn't really fit cos its got a fat arse... without twisting the engine mounts and "shaving" the fat BW down on the side..... Bit annoyed really but cant blame anyone but me! Jad
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Anyone care to comment? I will buy new gears anyway but could the O ring me the cause of my problems? Im at a loss to what else it could be.... cheers Jad
was just over 68mm.
It is going to fit 
Sealey Grit Blaster
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
Bought one of these quite a few years ago for doing small jobs.
http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=109516&Referrer=googleproductlisting&gclid=CLHo7dDxt7MCFanItAodNCwA1w
A couple of weekends ago it just stopped working. (No it hasnt run out of grit) It will work for a very short period of time but then stop. I have taken it apart and everything looks "ok", not that I have taken one apart before..... If you put your finger over the end the air will blast through to the hopper so the pipe isnt blocked and the grit seams dry.
Does anyone have any ideas why one of these would stop working? Its such a simple design that maybe I am just overlooking something?
Cheers
Jad