jad
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Posts posted by jad
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Permission to test the swear filter?
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I may have found the offending item....
The O ring between the pick up pipe and pump wasnt seated properly. Could this have caused it to build pressure get to a certain point and then suck air instead of oil? Not sure why it would fail after many many thousands of miles though.....
I have also taken the gears out to have a look at them. What constitues as too much wear? I didnt buy any new gears (mistake)
is it ok to turn the gears upside down so they are driving on the other faces? There was some metal sludge in the pump.... but not what I would call excessive since the engine has probably done a significant number of miles!
If new gears anyone know where I can get some on a saturday afternoon in bedfordshire?
Thanks
Jad
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If I shouldn't worry about going down to 1/2 inch then is it ok the make the whole system out of half inch pipe ports etc? cheers Jad
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The Camshaft bearing has been done before by the garage within the warranty period. Last time the oil light would flicker when hot at idle, not come on completely and not go out again. The engine sounds absolutely fine so don't think it would be mains or big ends... It has only ever leaked oil it doesn't lose any by other means as far as I know.... It has for a long time had a bit of a lumpy idle with a bit of white smoke when cold but has done this for a long time. The timing has been done 2/3 times and im confident its correct. It doesn't mix fluids only black smoke, it doesn't overheat it doesn't pressurise and it goes very well! Im kind of at a loss for other ideas! :/ Jad
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Hello again! Have started taking my car apart. Nothing is blocking the mesh and the pressure relief valve only has a tiny bit or wear in it. and doesn't seem to be sticking.... This link shows an exploded diagram of the pump http://albritt.de/UNI.cfm?SPRACHE=EN&PAGE=800690&FORK=37794 In front of part 8 there appears to be a ball bearing with no part number. My pump doesn't seem to have this..... Should It be there? I have ordered part 8 and it didn't come with. I also ordered a genuine spring from britcar but it is ~2-3mm shorter than the one I took out. They feel about the same rate though. I fitted my pressure gauge and started the car and it builds oil pressure up to about 40psi and then goes to 0!
Anyone have any more ideas with this extra info? Cheers Jad PS my return key doesn't seem to be working while writing this reply although its working otherwise....... :-/ -
Anyone know of any take off oil plates and remote filter mounts with 5/8" BSP tapped holes? They all seem to have 1/2"BSP ports with adaptors to put them up in size. The oil ways from the pump are about 15-16mm so wanted to keep that diameter rather than going down to 12mm at the connections..... Strikes me as a fairly pointless restriction in the system!
Cheers
Jad
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Hey up.
Its for the filter otherwise it will be in my chassis! Im going to use the standard water/oil cooler which I can relocate from the engine mount to the remote mount to give some more room as well.
Will have a look around
cheers
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Im looking into buying remote take off plates, covers, -10AN/JIC aeroquip hoses, a filter mount with 3/4" oil filter and anything else I need.
On Ebay and other shops the prices of such things vary massively. My question is, is it worth spending more on ones from the UK like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-oil-sandwich-plate-kit-TVC50-/190349051156?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item2c51b00514 or is one from china like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminum-Oil-Filter-Cooler-Sandwich-Plate-Adapter-Kit-M20x1-5-3-4-16-UNF-silver-/360444286608?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53ec275690 going to be just as well made even though its under half the price?
I priced up the parts I need from this website http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/index.asp in the UK and it came to about £250. I can get the same parts just rebranded on ebay for a little less.
What do people think? Are there any specific companies in the UK that people use for this kind of thing?
Cheers
Jad
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Hardly smells at all? Your not putting enough in!
You can supposedly smell mine a couple of miles back....
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Cheers
Didnt think to look on there!
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Or just run on veg oil straight into your fuel tank like i do. 97ish pence a litre and no mucking about.
97p???
You are getting jacked. 89p a litre in 20L containers from Costco!
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Hi Guys
I want to get my car fixed this coming weekend. Its not around for me to take apart so that makes buying replacement parts more of a gamble!
I am not sure whether or not to get just the parts to repair the pressure relief valve or just buy a complete pump instead. What do people think?
I would replace the whole pressure relief valve system spring etc. Do these parts cover what I need? (Would be buying the genuine parts)
spring
Plunger
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/5991/ETC4880-PLUNGER.html?search=ETC4880&page=1
Copper Washer
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/134/232044-COPPER-WASHER.html?search=232044&page=1
oil pump to block gasket
Alternatively you can get complete allmakes oil pumps for ~£50 or genuine for ~£180. Are the Allmakes pumps of good quality? or is it worth buying genuine? I will be staying away from britpart for this item!
Do people think it worth me buying the parts for the pressure relief valve and hoping that is the problem and then if I find the pump is gone to buy either parts to fix it or a new pump?
Also does anyone know the thread size for the 200tdi disco oil switch? Im going to be buying a pressure gauge and wanted to know if this would fit... http://www.machine7.com/product.php?xProd=3265&xSec=1169
Cheers
Jad
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Definitely not the switch. Yoou van hear the turbo running dry when U turn it off =/
Could be the prv. Will have to get an oil pressure gauge on it at some point to find out. Will call the aa tomorrow morning
Cheers
Jad
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Great start to my weekend laning in the lakes! anyone got some suggestions? Plenty of oil. BuildS oil pressure when you first start then goes.recentley cleaned out sump maybe 500 miles ago. Didn't use too much rtv sealant. So oil pump or camshaft bearing that rotates?
Cheers
Jad
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Nope in the lakes this weekend!
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http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26341
Just found this topic. It doesnt mention anything about the gbox output shaft so hoping nothing needs to be modded...... If someone could confirm though it would be nice!
Cheers
Jad
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The thing is though output shaft on the short R380 I have is part of the main shaft. Being a perfectly good rather expensive gearbox I dont fancy having to trim the output shaft to fit a borg warner. If someone has done an LT230 to borg warner conversion before it would be nice to hear from them what was involved.
Cheers
Jad
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Just wanted to check if anyone knows. When putting the Borg Warner on an LT77 or R380 does it bolt straight up? I was mainly wondering about the output shaft as I know there is an adaptor/extension piece for putting the lt230 on a ZF auto. If someone who has done it could clarify what/if anything needs changing that would be great!
Cheers
Jad
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That sounds even better
The 1.2 I have I have just put a new cross drilled input gear in. It may fit in the 1.4 but am not sure. Would be willing to give u that as well if you fancy a swap.Jad
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I have a 1.4 that I took off my defender to put a 1.2 on. It worked fine but I do not know what sufix it is. Its at my parents house so would have to ask them to check. I put a 1.2 on my project at the moment. Have never properly tested it though....
I am in warwickshire and am going to the lakes this weekend. My parents is in bedfordshire.
Jad
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That sounds good. Long way away though.... Are you looking for a 1.4 or 1.2 ratio?
Jad
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Cheers. I had seen the 10/15/20mm spacers but if i was doing it then would want the difference in length that the change between borg warner and Lt230 gives on the front prop. If the borgwarner can cope with the power then Ill use that and stick with it. When I seek lots more power at some point I will jsut have to swap the LT230 and get a different prop. That would be a long way in the future though, so not going to worry about it!
Jad
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Hi guys
Good to hear it will hold up to the power. Since that is the case I can do away with the spacer. I would have to find which standard length propshaft would fit as nothing is in a standard position. The only skinny prop that I know of though is on the cat 3.9 and this is too short so will have to have one made for the front. I will measure the rear and hopefully find a standard length prop that will fit. Makes things cheaper!
If anyone has a Tbox from a 3.9/4.2 classic that they want to get rid of or swap for an LT230 then PM me. A wanted ad is going in the wanted section....
Cheers
Jad
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The reaction on this forum I am fairly sure will be unanimous, that you should have not started this.....
Am I right in guessing your not from the UK?
is it ok to turn the gears upside down so they are driving on the other faces? There was some metal sludge in the pump.... but not what I would call excessive since the engine has probably done a significant number of miles!
Anyone have any more ideas with this extra info? Cheers Jad PS my return key doesn't seem to be working while writing this reply although its working otherwise....... :-/
The 1.2 I have I have just put a new cross drilled input gear in. It may fit in the 1.4 but am not sure. Would be willing to give u that as well if you fancy a swap.
Boost Gauge advice needed
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
Some people boost higher than I do. Mines runs up to 1.25 Bar with no problems and apparently smokes plenty. Must get around to installing an EGT gauge! No need to drill the manifold on a disco 200. I fitted a banjo connection to bolt hole in the middle of the manifold. I have a durite one which I think may be dying at the moment.... (Needle doesn't always move smoothly) so may be best to avoid. Jad