[removing a bush out of radius arms and drag links]

find a peice of steel pipe the right size. think i used a bit of scafolding and and 8 pound hammer. thats how i have done mine before

[disco transfer box onto lt77]

I can't remember if the main box needs to be lowered to remove the transfer box

you dont have to lower the gearbox. but if you have some help it would be a lot easier. Its a heavy lump weighted to one side. bench pressing it on into the right position is extremely hard work.....

When i did mine i did noticed the noise had dropped for a given road speed. however i would say after its been on there for a while you get used to normal loud droning again!

[200TDi recommended oil]

A friend of mine had a Renault 5 in which he changed the oil once in 90,000 miles!

was it leaking out so fast that he never had to physically change it?

[200TDi recommended oil]

im currently using Halfrauds 10w/40 part synthetic diesel oil, havent been for long though

i was on castrol magnatec 10w/40 B3 diesel before which was fine as well

havent noticed any difference as of yet between the two.

[D-90 in the Bahamas]

some people dont have it too bad do they

[New RHD bulkhead]

For that price can you not go to ashtree and get a nice shiny galvanised one?

[red fluid dripping off my drop arm]

yes

[Knocking noise, on an 87 LR90]

Possibly a faulty thermostat getting stuck sometimes on sometimes off?

Dont think that would make a noise like a gently tapping toffee hammer though....

Im sure an adult will be along soon for another diagnosis!

Jad

[200 tdi timing belt]

ETC5064 camshaft oil seal

ETC4154 front cover crankshaft oil seal

ERR6490 front crank shaft oil seal

ERR1195 Timing Cover Gasket 200 Disco

all genuine ones

thats what i used to do my disco 200 engine

If its not leaking though it might be best to leave the seals as you dont have to take the timing gears off to set the timing. Would definately be worth getting ETC4154 front cover crankshaft oil seal as this is in the case part which you do remove. Dont know if others would agree?

I just did mine cos it was leaking.

Jad

[leaking oil]

All fixed now touch wood the leak is fixed!

after going back to the garage to get a crankshaft seal... they gave me 2 camshaft ones!

maybe i should have checked the box with a crossed out part number and another one written on.....

Have you started doing yours yet?

I did finish it a couple of days ago but didnt want to jinx myself

[What is this?]

I beleive its a mass resonator or something to that nature. Its meant to stop vibrations but a garage have told me it will probably make no difference if you have mud tyres fitted. Its not critical so take I would say take it off and see if you get any vibrations

[leaking oil]

Well its going ok so far still all in peices of course

if your following les' guide so far one small thing to change. after you losen the camshaft sprocket bolt losen the crankshaft bolt again with the belt still in place otherwise its hard to get it out again so you can take the crankshaft gear off.

Hardest thing so far was taking the crankshaft bolt off in the first place. breaker bar under the chassis and starter motor didnt work to start with so out with the hot spanner! that eventually got it off and when it did come it was a great feeling.

And also les' bit about the drawing on a peice of cardboard and sticking the bolts through it is a bit off a life saver. I have'nt counted them but there is at least 10 and mostly different lengths well worth doing!

Jad

[leaking oil]

the timing cover has been off recently when the cam belt snapped and bent 4 push rods etc so no bolts should be seized touch wood......

I got Timing belt

ETC5064 camshaft oil seal

ETC4154 front cover crankshaft oil seal

ERR6490 front crank shaft oil seal

ERR1195 Timing Cover Gasket 200 Disco

all genuine I beleive

[leaking oil]

Mine is leaking out the wading plug hole and not as the link shows as well. I have just bought the parts from the garage to fix mine and has told me i only need to remove the timing cover and not the 2nd one that les shows in his thread as the crank seal and camshaft seal come out forwards. Im guessing les does this because its leaking down the engine and not from the wading plug hole if you get what i mean??? Please correct me if I am wrong, I plan on starting this tomorrow

cheers

Jad

[leaking oil]

Im about to do this. It could be the camshaft seal as well I have been told. Les Henson has provided a thread here on removing the timing case and replacing both those seals here.....

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=42950

Looks like it might take a while!

Jad

[Compression Ratio]

I think im right in saying it should say under the engine number on the side. certainly does on a carb 3.5 sitting at home

[sinking brake pedal]

Just the master - yes.

Bleed the master before attaching it to the pipes though - you can get air locks in a 'dry' master cylinder.

Les.

Hi Les

How do I do that?

is it the same method for bleeding the brakes but just through the master cylinder?

thanks for you help

James

[sinking brake pedal]

Hi again

Just wanted to ask. Is changing the brake master cylinder as easy as unbolting the old one bolting in the new one and bleeding the brakes? i had a search but could find anything.

cheers

James

[Chirp chirp chirp - but it's not a belt]

alternator bearing?

[sinking brake pedal]

NRC9529 is Correct for your vehicle upto chassis HA701009, from HA701010 the servo & master cylinder changed, so the later cylinder won't fit your servo, bolt holes are in a different orientation.

cheers

looks like ill be paying a bit more then unless anyone knows of another cheap source for a NRC9529???

[sinking brake pedal]

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110497684117

If anyone else needs one, get one while they're available this cheap! There were 9 available yesterday evening, so they're going quick.

Don't know why they're so cheap, but the listing says it's brand new and the proper Lucas/Girling item.

No connection, just want to help others get a deal if they can!

I have a G reg 1990 90

from what i could work out i wanted part number NRC9529

which is this one http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=390123201116&ih=026&category=31348&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1

can anyone confirm if the one I quoted from a previous post be used aswell?

cheers

[sinking brake pedal]

who did you buy that from and does he have more? I saw them on there for 60ish

worth checking the wheel bearings its a common thing that will make the break peddle soft

my wheel bearings are fine ok wasnt told anything about them at my last scruitineering anyway.... but how would the wheel bearings cause your brake pedal to be soft?

[sinking brake pedal]

Hi everyone

This weekend my brake pedal started to sink slowly. as in when the brake pedal is pumped it becomes very hard but slowly sinks. Before this started happening the brakes were sometimes hard and sometimes a bit soft but mostly stopped the vehicle well and didnt pull. The callipers discs and pads are all fairly new.

Before I start replacing anything i was wondering what peoples thoughts were on what it could be? My first thought would have been master cylinder.

Any ideas on things to check first would be helpful

Thanks

Jad

[Classic Range Rover Radius arms onto a 90]

depends on the width of the radius arms at the axle end. range rover ones may well be wider by about 10mm

[SPEEDO INNACURACY]

speedo will be a certain percentage out all the time.

i.e. mine reads 10% under all the time

speedo says 30 im doing 33

speedo says 70 im doing 77

etc

mine was checked against sat nav as well