jad
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Posts posted by jad
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picked it up and have tested it seems to work fine.
turned out the guy only lived 10 miles away
get them while there hot....
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gamble I just bought one cheers
I found this website that says its for a TDi:
http://www.lrautomotive.com.au/contents/en-us/d4814_188.html
I would grab one soon before everyone else takes them
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havent over looked the handbrake being out of adjustment after changing it have you? might be worth a check?
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I read the title and immediately thought KABOOOOOMMMM lol sorry
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I have just removed the EGR off my dads 300 defender. Found the vacuum pipe hanging around at the back of the bulkhead not attached.....
His brakes have been fine but we put a small screw in where the vacuum hose is meant to attach.
What does the bit that all the vacuum pipes go to do?
Is it possible to remove it all and have more a 200 style set up?
Jad
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Thanks for the offer but im looking for info on changing the 200 manifold and turbo to a 300.
My dad has a 300 outside I can take a butchers at.
I looked at the 200 turbo earlier. The top oil hose for it is connected via a banjo bolt and i beleive the 300 one is as well which says to me that would be quite easy to swap over and i dont 'think' the bottom hoses could be too hard to adapt.
Has no one done this conversion?
or have any decent info on it?
Think I might have to source the bits and then have a look at the feasibility of it
cheers
James
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Hi
I was wondering if anyone could give me more information on this mod. I have read that its possible and the same gasket is used. The exhaust from a 300 would be in the way of a standard 200 engine mount etc. Can anyone give me a bit more detail on what needs to be modified. I havent been able to find a decent write up of the modification.
One of the main aspects i was wondering about was the oil feed pipes. Im not exactly sure how they join? are they a screw thread? if so are they the same between the engines?
Your help on any aspect would be appreciated
Thanks
Jad
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driver?
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I beleive 300 and 200 pumps can be interchanged with some small modification but cant remember what they are....
Autoland in houton regis reconned my brothers fuel pump, now fitted to my car as he blew his engine up! Think the pump was about 450, 700 ish installed.
I think for 500 he does a "performance" one but most of that is easy enough to do yourself if you want to
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Hi
On our trialler we have disco 1 brakes with the double hoses that come to the front of the axle. We have +2 inch shocks and brake hoses and standard length springs and shock mounts. The problem is any position we try and put the chassis mount, the brake hoses hit the tyre and/or the bracket that the panhard rod attaches to on the chassis. If we move the mount up it doesnt hit but then on full drop the brake hose is too short etc etc
I was wondering if someone could firstly post a picture of the standard place the hoses are bolted in, as i cant find a pic online and dont have a disco 1 to look at and secondly has anyone experienced a problem like this and knows how to get around it? picture of what you have done would be lovely as well
thanks for your help
James
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just loop the cooler out at the front, on our 100" tdi trialer that is tripple driven @ each event it can get bloody hot when the old girl is working hard in the mud with the throttle wide open
Hi
What do you mean by loop it out at the front? there is nothing to loop it through, as the rad is in the back.
can anyone confirm if the auto box cooler has the same fittings? would be a cheaper way of installing a cooler
cheers
James
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Hi
I was wondering what peoples thoughts were on bypassing the oil cooler in a ccv trialler? Its an 80 inch 200tdi and will be used purely off road. We would plumb it in if the radiator was in the front..... but since its not it makes things a little harder.
My thinking was since its gonna be an off roader its not going to be gunning along at motorway speeds at constant high revs and therefore the oil should not get as hot as it normally would. How much can the oil cooler actually do anyway? As i understand it, on a 200 its only a pipe running through the colder side of the radiator through the coolant inside? Does anyone know any different?
We were thinking of either bypassing the cooler and just looping it round or having pipes made up to go to the rear of the vehicle. Another option would be to get a small independent oil cooler for it but I would prefer not to do this.
Your thoughts and experiences would be appreciated
cheers
James
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the fourth picture shows the rear most axle and in the bottom left you can see the propshaft bolted on.....
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this doesnt show it very well but i dont have a better picture really. need to take it up a twist off ramp!
The movement on the front end is now restricted by the plus 5 inch dampers. My suspension is the mostly gywn lewis parts
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Thx, any Pict? (cause no pict on polybush web site ;-)
here you go
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Voided Cottonreel Bush Front Radius Arm to Axle
ref 1AG
these are what i have in my 90. they only fit the wide radius arms but really free up the front end.
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Defender 300 is the 2nd from left.
Think the best solution is to as you have said bolt the engine up to the bell housing and then tack the mounts in place. remove and weld properly
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there is a guy in my club running a 130 Amp alternator from a V belt and i think he ahs ripped though a couple of belts so far.......
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Hi guys, im looking for some advice on finding a heavy duty rad. I want something i can jet wash without fear of damaging it. I took my old rad to a local radiator place to ask about re-coring it with a anti-clog core, but it was going to reduce the cooling efficiency to much.
so any ideas? for 300tdi
Me and my dad just put radiators on ours from Kempston radiators. We had them put in a heavy duty core so that they say can be power washed. Havent tried it yet as there not full of mud! but it certaing seams a LOT heavier duty than standard. Cost 168+vat each so is a bit more expensive than standard but hopefully worth and it does take about 5 working days for the HD ones to be done though and your probably a bit far away. Hope this is of some help.....
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Sorted now. Ended up changing the injection pump and it now idles properly and revs well. Think I might have to fiddle with it soon for a but more power!. I was wondering having read loads of threads about tweaking them and what a safe boost pressure is. I have a durite boost gauge connected to the inlet manifold. Currently measures just over 0.7 bar. Brunel performance have played with the wastegate a bit. It was doing about 0.75 with the old pump which was tweaked by brunel again. I was mainly wondering is the safe boost pressure people say about at the turbo outlet or the inlet manifold? or is there not that much of a loss?
cheers
Jad
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sounds like its pressurising a bit wouldnt want to go wading if it has popped out a bit. try blowing the breather through may be blocked
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thats completely fine. if you get any bigg chunks then you need to start worrying
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you will not be able to move the engine forward any further as the 300 already sits right behind the radiator
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I did read it and 2 people told him the gearbox sticks would be further back coming out of the seat box.
Is AMR 1912 suitable for a 200tdi defender?
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
I can do but I am a little busy at the moment and im going away this weekend. It really is ever so simple. 3 cables needed, 12 volt, earth and one from the 'G' on the gauge to the back of the alternator which should have a terminal marked with a 'W' at the base of it (was on the right hand side near the bottom when looking down on the alternator from the front on mine).