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jad

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Posts posted by jad

  1. I am not sure if the lift pump will tick but the injection pump does tick if its trying to suck fuel but cant due to a blockage.

    Make sure you use a genuine lift pump. When you change the fuel filter and lift pump did you have any problems bleeding the system?

    If it takes a while for fuel to come out the bleed screw it could be the lift pump as, AFAIK it should be supplying more than enough fuel for the injection pump at any revs. But this also makes it sound like air could be getting in the system.

    Jad

  2. I had a friend running on bio diesel and at one point he lost lots of power and his injection pump was ticking. he changed his fuel filter and all was tickaty boo. You have allready done this obviously but it sounds like something else, tank pick up/ pipes or something is blocked. To check the lift pump is working properly you can remove the power wire to the injection pump, disconnect the fuel pipe from the fuel filter and crank the engine over. Cover the pipe with a towel or something. If its working there should be lots of fuel sprayed everywhere. This could indicate if the tank pick up or pipes are blocked

    Jad

  3. I run without an oil cooler with no probs but if you are concearned simply plumb a small one in the engine bay(saves a load of pipework), also if running a rad in the rear you are better off not useing a tdi rad and going for something larger like a v8 one which is a full lenght jobby which is going to give you far more cooling efficiency as you will need as much as you can get due to restricted airflow, i'm currently running a ali freelander one as it saves a fair bit of weight if that's an issue for you, good luck with it :)

    that wont be a problem. were using a tdi rad. there hugely overcooled anyway, there is gonna be so much water in the system as well. I think we will just leave the oil cooler plumbed into the back, its there now.....

  4. FWIW, a friend has been building a challenge truck with a 300tdi and a rear rad, and he's using the built in oil cooler.

    It has no problems at all getting, or maintaining, oil pressure. The radiator is on the low pressure (after the engine) side of the circuit, and isn't even in circuit all the time - the oil thermostate means the radiator is only in circuit when the oil is hot enough.

    Thats good to hear. thanks for the response

    And oil doesn't compress very much at all, so getting pressure generally shouldn't be a problem anyway, but you may find oil changes are a bit difficult; either the oil comes out and it takes an age to refill ('cause now it's full of air) or it doesn't drain and you have a load of dirty oil left.Having remote drain & fill points seems extreme but I can't think of another solution to that one. How would you get the oil after it had been in the engine, as normally it just drips back to the sump?

    Nigel

    thats isnt too much of a problem, its not a road going vehicle so it can be left to drain. I dont think we will worry about dirty oil being left in the pipes. we can move them about to help with the oil pipes around a bit to help it drain.

    I have a 80 200tdi with rear radiator! i will watch this with interest!!

    You say you are gonna watch this.... If you have one how long have you had it? what do you do with it? any had any problems?

    Also does anyone know if the 200 has a thermostat for the engine oil as standard?

    cheers

    Jad

  5. My dad and I have been building a 200tdi 80 inch trialler/possible winch vehicle from a disco 1.

    We have put the radiator right at the very back and we have extended the oil cooling pipes for the engine to it.

    It has been suggested that this may make it a very long time for the oil pressure to build up. Does anyone have any experience of this or knwo the how the oil circulates around the engine?

    I would have throught that engine oil would be picked up from the sump (obviously) and then used to lubricate the engine which would then be put through the filter to take out any carp picked up by it and and put through the oil cooler when it is hottest and fed back into the sump. This would make me think that there would not be any oil pressure problems, but i could always be wrong.....

    Basically I want to know if we are gonna bugger the engine?

    Thanks for your help

    Jad

  6. I know its more expensive but me and my dad got our radiators recored by Kempston Radiators near bedford with an "off road" core. Its a lot stronger has bigger gaps and is pressure washable ( Supposedly without falling to peices) but we havent got them properly caked in mud yet. After a long drive my raiator is completely cold at the bottom and hot at the top.

    They are just a little under £200 quid though.

  7. I've got a Durite gauge fitted. That steadies at about 82c,with the top of the rad.

    hot same as yours. The thermostat doesn't open with a bang, so perhaps 88c is when

    it's fully open?

    that would make sense actually. good thinking

    I hadnt thought of that as with the old land rover gauge it used to spike and then level off. So i was just assuming the thermostat was open or shut.

    cheers

    Jad

  8. Hi

    The other day i replaced me standard land rover water temp gauge with this gauge and this sender,

    http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6142/VDO-WATER-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE/product_info.html

    http://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p6151/VDO-WATER-TEMPERATURE-SENDER-5/8-UNF-THREAD/product_info.html

    I thought these would give a fairly accurate temperature reading, however on my 200tdi which has an 88 degree thermostat, when the engine is up to temperature the gauge reads about 82 degrees. At this point the top of the radiator is hot and the bottom cold. Since the top of the radiator is hot this must mean the thermostat has opened. So why doesnt my gauge read about 88? Has anyone seen this before? Are the gauges just not really that accurate?

    Cheers

    Jad

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