jad
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Posts posted by jad
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i have just done mine as i had quite a bad steering vibration. (found there was no preload on it.....) with it all together i aimed for between 12-15 pounds. thats what the garage told me to do it to. lots of vibration gone now. but think the insa's are still causing alot of problems
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Just make your own. take the old one out and use it as a template
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Anyone want me to go have a look for them, before they put a bid in? am only 16 miles away.
I could make a day of it, camping chair, crate of beer........
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Chris that sounds like a good idea to me makes alot of sense
IIRC the 300Tdi block has the threaded bolt holes to accept the 200Tdi engine block brackets, if the holes are not drilled or threaded there's another job to add to your conversion list.
western do you mean that if the 300 is attached to the LT77 then you can use the mounts that are bolted to the 200 engine on the 300 engine to mount onto the engine chassis mounts for a 200? if that makes sense.......
if that is possible why do people bother changing to 300 style mounts when they do this conversion?
also are there any differences between the 300 defender and discos? I know about the EDC on the later 300's
cheers
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Right i know what your all thinking straight away!
In the "standard position" they overlap.
However my 90 is currently in need of a new galv chassis and my 200 (disco engine) is currently not running as sweetly as I want. I have been contemplating putting in a 300 but dont want to shell out for it at the moment.
What i was wondering was will the engine mounts overlap if both engines were mounted to an LT77? (i.e the 300 sits alot further back in the 200 position)
and if they dont overlap will the engine mounts on the chassis get in the way of anything? like exhaust etc? (thinking exhaust may be a problem) I currently have a steve parker down pipe on the disco 200.
obviously if they dont then this would allow me to get a galv chassis with both mounts on and then allow me to put a 300 in at a later date!
Thanks in advance
James
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well the garage did the timing and it got progressively worse. if it was out surely it would just be at a constant problem not changing?
it was the first time i had done it as well, pretty sure i got everything right but didnt make a difference
ill check it before i do anything though
can you adjust it by putting the crank at TDC and then taking off the cover plate and undoing the 3 bolts that hold the pulley or what?
cheers
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thanks for your help think i would prefer to take the timing case off rather than buy that....
just out of interest does anyone know if a defender 200 injector pump will fit a discovery 200 engine?
cheers
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oh yeah also the injectors were changed for another set and this made no difference. I have an injection pump i could try putting in. a recon one that my brother bought shortly before putting 2 holes in both sides of his engine
is it hard to change? does the timing cover have to be removed again? or just the cover plate?
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Hi
For a while i have been having some problems with my 200tdi. A couple of months ago the timing belt snapped. The bent pushrods were replaced by a garage and the timing set again. At first the engine ran very well. But over a period the idle has become quite lumpy (not getting any worse now), many people have described it as hunting. I have redone the timing again when it started leaking oil from the timing case and this made no difference. I have also thought that it has been down on power compared to how it was originally although it still revs fine and pulls ok, and can do 70 plus although it takes a while to get there. The tappets have also been checked and adjusted.
The engine will start first time and if the engine is revved it idles smoothly but too fast. If the engine is then put under load on the clutch and brakes it will start to hunt. Occasionally the revs will also drop from the smooth but too fast to hunting of its own accord. It does not smoke at all apart from a bit of black on start up which i know is fine and I dont believe it burns any oil/uses any water and there is no excess pressure in the crank case, dip stick tube or rocker cover. Its almost like then engine is missing when hunting.
So far the thoughts are that it could have a bent/burnt/loose valve, or cracked piston (although unlikely since its not burning oil) from when the timing belt went or the head gaskest has gone between 2 cylinders.
If anyone has any other diagnoses then that would be appreciated and if anyone has a compression tester suitable for a 200 in the bedfordshire, hertfordshire, cambridgeshire area (although i may be willing to travel a little further) that i could borrow at theirs quickly (for a few beer tokens) that would be great.
Hopefully I should get round to posting a couple of videos of what its doing, if i can work out how to. (never done it before)
sorry for the long post
Thank you for your help
James
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Have to say I really fancy a milemarker type r, and will get one at some point, fast, reliable and plenty of pulling power. Only problem is if you stall or break your engine, but then you probably have something bigger to worry about.
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give it a go with some mole grips should be easier than filing and you wont get metal shavings everywhere
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i think you mean he had to take the input gear out the transfer box that slide on to the output shaft of the gearbox. in order to remove the input gear you only have to remove 5/6 bolts on the back of the transfer box that hold on a cover plate. it then slides out. I dont beleive any tolerances or torque values are lost by doing this. obviously the bolts that hold the plate on and the transfer box to the gearbox should have all been torqued back up to the required values. hope this is some help.
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Hi,
I'm looking at getting a raptor dash as they do look great. The question I have, is how does the CB fit in there. I have nothing with my CB that would keep it in place. Do you get a bracket of perhaps an insert like with the stereo??
cheers
Dave
brackets come with it
I have one in my truck and quite a few people in my club have them and more want them.....
My vote is for raptor
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from tuko's comment i think it you wash the salt of fairly regularly obviously more so during winter it will keep it shinier. i think i will leave mine alone when i get it done
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I dont have a galv chassis yet.... will be coming this summer but i think the main reason for painting the chassis is so that other people cannot tell its a galv one and therefore less attractive to potential thieves.
people also do it for the more genuine look
i dont think i will be painting mine just try to come up with a decent security device
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I used a long file when i did this. takes a while but you would get there eventually
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I just used the best fitting 12 point socket I had on mine
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actually i cant remember which way roung i did it. obviously the smaller bolt went through the bigger hole!. I put a H reg disco axle on a G reg defender
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you can do. there is a small amoutn of play in the holes but nothing major. mines has been like it for a year or so with no problems
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when i got my cross drilled one from ashcroft i just told them the serial number of the box. ask them to push the bearings on if you get it from them. had to get a lift back after i opened the box
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you also get two different types of threads on the bolts, 12mm and something imperial but i cannot quite remember what it is... yours assuming it is original should be the imperial size
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from the picture it looks like you bush has gone. If you take the radius arm off you will be able to have a proper look at it.
obviously to fix it you just need to get it replaced
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is it made of unobtanium or something???
300tdi and gearbox into a 110???
in Defender Forum (1983 - 2016)
Posted
This has been covered so many times. it is possible but the gear stick and transfer box lever are in the wrong place. you would have to cut a chunk out of the seat box for them to come into the cab.
like this
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/disco-gearbox-into-defender-98016.html
the pictures show it well
that was the second search result on google!