sharpy

Hi all, Been a while since I posted a problem, but hey I'm back! About two months ago I sold my 90 and bought a 110, bit newer but still old, she's on a H plate. Were having some electrical problems which I know will just be a short or something wrong behind the dash? Symptoms are Temp gauge reads around 120 degrees with lights, heater, radio, wipers, etc. on and varies in time with my indicators, not to worried about this but the thing I'm struggling to sort is the heating? I thought that the heating worked on cables that pulled the unit on or off? Can anyone tell me different? Sometimes I have heat and next time I restart I have none? Paul

nothing to worry about then, havent really seen the other half as weve had bad shifts that cross at strange times this week

The engine is 2ltr td4, there are no signs of any leaks that could drip onto the pipe and the pipe is dry, defiantly coming out of the hose.

Hi all, My other half has a 52 freelander 1, for the last month or two after a run it has been leaking water. I have located where it is coming from but don't know how to stop it or if I should? As you stand in front of the car, low down on the bulkhead on the right hand side is a rubber pipe, which is nipped together (like the one on a defender air box). There are no signs that she is loosing fluid from any of the resavoirs, they are constant at the required levels. I was speaking to a guy that drives a lorry because he had a similar pipe which I noticed was dripping? I asked him what it was and he told me it's from the air-con, is the freelander a similar set up and the pipe is just where the car vents the gases that have turned into water? The air-con is not on, although the blowers are on cold and the fan always on about number three on the dial? Help I'm not good with new stuff, my air-con is a roll down window on a 25 year old 90 :-) Also on a different subject is there any difference in changing the track rod end on the freelander? Many thanks Paul

Hi Guys Thanks for the replies, did all you suggested until we got to the pump, replaced that and all ok again. Cheers once again Paul

Hiya, Dont spend to much money! All my LEDS are from Hong Kong or China via Ebay, they work fine. I am running LEDS all round, including front side lights and indicators. If you fit indicator bulbs though you also need to put a relay in the system as without it they flash to quickly (like a bulb has gone) I have had mine in for over two years, never been pulled at MOT or by the law and my other half sometimes takes my truck to work and n one has said anything to her and she's a police woman. Paul

Hi all, Been a while since I posted up a problem, must be at least a few months??? RECORD!!!! Any how, today I'd done 40 miles with no problems, turned a 90 degree corner at low speed (traffic lights had just gone green, so really slowly) No noise's, but nearly hit the curb, no power steering! limped home the last couple of miles, no leaks, steering fluid as it should be, all belts in place and tight??? Just Google'd it and nothing relating to anything on here, read the thread on here for stiff steering http://forums.lr4x4....?showtopic=4563 so I'll check that stuff out in the morning. Just looking for ideas, truck is a 1987 LR 90, running 33x12.5x16 tyres/wheels, pro comp dampers (both for at least a year) Only recently fitted Bearmach HD springs, not sure what lift this has given me, used to have a 3 inch lift, now my truck is 5 1/2 inches taller than an 09' Defender with 31 inch wheels. Suggestions welcome. Paul

Hiya My truck used to over run after it was turned off and the key in my pocket, it turned out to be the barrel assembly had worn badly and started to fall apart, new barrel and 2 new keys sorted it out. As for your lights could that just be a coincidence? and they need dealing with separately? Paul

hiya, we had this a few months ago on my mates truck, turned out to be the front drive shafts being rusted, so much so that they had disintegrated at the wheel, hence it didnt mesh and wouldnt move forward Paul

Just thought I would post up my new mileage after fitting the lift pump with a spacer.......WOW! 267 miles to a tank full, for my truck it's awesome, I usually hover around 200 if I'm lucky, and I'm still driving the truck like I stole it, woohoo Paul

hiya, Only my second post here as I own a 90, but my other half has bought a TD4 53 plate freelander, my question is about the rear lights, she has been stopped frequently by people telling her that her lights aren't working? I have checked them and they do work and according to the owners manual are in the right place, but to me having the rear lights on the bottom and brake lights in the middle seems silly. They are really low down and if you get someone driving on your arse it also seems dangerous. Has anyone moved rear lights to the centre position by extending the loom or added a stop tail function in the centre set, and how did you do it? Paul

Bloody hell! I was thinking my truck was poor, I put £30 in and got 115 miles from proper empty, I even took the sender out and looked in the tank as I thought it was bad, so today brimmed the tank £56, so on that basis 200ish miles from a 1987 90 with disco 2.5 in is about right? Paul

not sure if this is clear? but you can quite clearly see the black spacer sandwiched between blue gaskets, i cant seem to make it any bigger (story of my life?) but this is from somewhere called Brookwells, there are a few if you google them, but like i said, worked for me Paul

just for further info, i have sorted my poor pulling power on my 1987 90 with a disco 200tdi and it relates to this. today i bought from paddocks a new lift pump on the advice of the garage as their supplier wanted twice as much money. on dropping it off to the garage the owner said he had a similar problem and it wasnt until he installed his forth one that came with a spacer, as did mine. apparently Bob at paddocks was aware of this aswell and agreed with the garage, the replacement one should come with a spacer that keeps the lift pump another centimetre away from the block, apparently if you install a lift pump without it after a while it will bend the arm that enters the engine and in my case resulted in my loss of power as it was only getting half the fuel it should. Dont know what you guys think about this? but my poor starting has gone, and she pulls like a train on speed! seriously on the return from the garage I couldnt find a road long enough!!! approaching 60 in fourth with still a sh** loads left, im looking forward to tomorrow ;-) Paul

The time we've had the freelander, I have enjoyed driving it, we had a five inches of snow and it dealt with it no problem at all, starts 1st time and has so far (touches wood) been reliable. More so than my truck as that is at the doctors again with a lack of power :-( So yes I would recommend one, the only thing I dont like about it is the styling, the one your looking at would be the one I would look at money allowing. Paul

I had this last year, exactly the same! my thrust bearing had disintegrated and got stuck, just to be on the safe side I bought everything, fork, bearing, clutch etc. The only thing that wasnt damaged was the master cylinder. Hope its not as bad, but whilst in there may as well replace everything with heavy duty. Paul

I have just put the trailer on the drive and yes there is a fair amount of whitish grey smoke when reversing with the trailer, I'm not sure if the brakes on the trailer work as they should as we only picked that up last night? We have to go out tonight so I'll take it out and see if anything else develops, on the trailer side of things there could be an issue as I have just put the handbrake on and now can't get it off! I'll investigate that tomorrow Paul

Hi all, I'm new to this area of the forum, so hello. We have just bought a 52 plate FL1 TD4 2litre, took it out yesterday and drove about 300 miles, no problems, half of that was with an empty 12x6ft trailer. Today after dropping off some hay at the field I had to reverse it up a very slight incline and I mean very slight! The truck stalled twice, may have been my fault as I'm used to an old 90, after the second time it stalled it stank of a sort of gas smell, maybe burnt clutch smell, but Not quite almost eggy? Any way after restarting it wouldn't go in any gear until it was turned off then on again? After that it drove fine again? All fluids are at the proper levels and the smell is going, what could this be? Paul

Hi all Thanks for all the replies, good and bad. Personally I don't like the look of them, but it was good to drive, having been in a cold, damp LR90 that is 25 year old. It's a practical choice, the other half won't be mud plugging, but she will be in a field with a trailer picking horse poo, collecting hay and other feeds, we have two staffy's which she runs with in competition, so again the rear window is ideal for the dogs which are not running and it has got to be better in poor weather than her 1.4 Corsa she sold a couple of years ago. Hopefully we have found a good one???? Paul

Thanks for that Really am new to electrics, so what is a VCU? As I said I have a 1987 90, so it's just nuts bolts and tie wraps ;-) The freelander is a TD4, so looking good then? Rear prop is still attached as that is something I had read about. Any more ideas with the yellow trigger on the gear knob most welcome Paul

Hiya all, I own a 90 but our lass is going to buy a freelander, we have just been to drive it and it all seemed fine. All the windows, sunroof worked, all electrics seemed ok. It was a 52 plate and the guy wants 3000 for it, which is fine price-wise, it's low mileage at 92k the only thing I couldn't make work and I don't know areally how to is the yellow know on the gear lever, any advice on that would be helpful, I had a little play but it didn't drive differently and I didn't spot a light to say it was on. I have read that if this isn't used very often it can fail, is it me inept operation? Or is it a costly repair waiting to happen? Paul

Yeah if I get it sorted I will post a thread on here with pictures and measurements, etc.

Not sure how much I can make one for? I was thinking about a piece of 1x2 box section (17.99 b&q) and I have some 4mm steel plate, few bolts with that, should be around £20 plus my time, but I enjoy doing bits like that. Thanks for the pictures, all very welcome. I have based my idea on the ones like mud are selling, so the brackets look flat, the gen one above uses tubes, I'd not seen this type before. I'll have a look-see at the links Thanks. Paul

From what I have seen of the ones on the Market they look simple enough, it's just bar, bent or welded to make up the main hoop. It's the brackets that mount it to the main body I can't seen to get a good look at Paul

Hiya Just thought I'd ask if anyone had made one successfully and had plans/pics etc for me to make my own Paul