sharpy

Hi all, I'm looking for a starting point please. I've had this truck for two years now and since Xmas 2013 I've noticed that on dull rainy/mistydays when idling at lights etc. the smoke from the exhaust is a grey colour very similar to steam and plumes of it, embarrassing at times. I'm assuming its water as on a regular basis I have to refill the coolant system? The truck drinks litres of water, there are never any signs of leaks? I'm guessing at a head gasket problem?, there is no evidence of water in the oil, so I guess that's good? If my guess is correct is the head gasket easy for a DIY er? I'm confident at most things around the truck, just tend not to get into the inner engine stuff. Cheers in advance Paul

Oh yes, The camping mats on the floor do work but after a while they get worn and leave imprints of your feet, especially on the drivers side you are left with grooves where your heals sit as your driving.

Hiya I've been covering my floors and under carpet areas with roofing felt underlay, not got it all done yet but it's working really well. It's a torch on underlay which with a paint stripper heat gun is actually sticking quite well, it's a little tacky at the moment on top as I've not got the carpets back in, but I'm hoping the stickiness will also stop the carpets from moving? I did a little research and for the cost the underlay is nearly the same as professional sound deadening, also I've read that if you do use something like this that you only have to cover 25% of the panel for it to be affective. Paul

Hiya, Can't show any photos as I don't have my old landy anymore. What I did was to spray glue the roof and then fit thick foam camping mats for insulation. Once dry I purchased some speaker box carpet (£18, halfords) then this was also spray glued to the roof, lost the original contours of the roof, but I only started with a bare tin roof. We have since though done my mates in a similar fashion, we removed the old vinyl and disposed of it as it was past repair, speaker holes, etc. Reinforced any weak points with fibreglass and applied speaker box carpet, the stuff is quite pliable as it is used to mould around difficult shapes on speaker housings.

Hiya Thanks all for the replies, I wasn't that clear earlier? I think my blower motor is cap-put! I know there are some checks to do to determine this, ( already checked for movement on the cables, all ok) I'm edging my bets, as I will probably have to replace the motor or do some work to it I thought I would replace it with a superior unit. that was my main question, has anyone put in another more powerfull blower from another vehicle? Transit, freelander etc? I didn't really want to go to great expense buying an aftermarket improved one as I can't justify the spend. Paul

Hi all Recently my blower blew it's fuse, replaced it only to get the same result. There is heat trickling through from the movement of the truck, but no where near enough. I know I've to check wiring and also check to see the fan isn't stuck and moves. But whilst doing this and having read up, it points to the blower being seized, so question is, can I fit a better blower motor? I've been looking and they all look similar? I know pictures can be deceptive, but my thinking is a blower unit from a freelander or transit look similar, I've been in both and it's always toasty warm and you can feel the air moving, unlike the truck? It's a 91 110 with a disco 200tdi inside, heater unit is standard defender. Cheers Paul

Hi all Could anyone advise me on the size of bolt that holds the earth strap and the oil check pipe/dipstick to the passengers side of the engine please? As I've lost mine. Oh yeah disco 200tdi engine, unsure of the year? On another note has anyone got any pictures or links to defender 110's with black roofs? My situation is that I need to respray my roof, need new door hinges and my rock sliders (colour matched to the body) are going rusty. I can't afford to have the whole truck resprayed or to have the bits done proffesionally and I don't want it to stand out if I tried to match the green bodywork, so I thought easiest/cheapest solution would be to respray all of the above, along with the wheels in gloss black? Opinions welcome Cheers Paul

Hiya I've ad a transfer box sat on my front garden for over a year now, I'm in Mansfield, Notts you ate very welcome to it if you want to collect it? If you ate interested drop me a line and ill have a look at it for more details, ratios etc

Hi again, I've had my new truck now for a year now with little or no problems, until now! Seems I'm getting a years worth in one go :-( any how the truck is a 1990 110, with a 200tdi transplant from a disco, after having some fuel issues, which seem to have been sorted the truck now has a squeaking noise and struggles over 40 mph? The noise? The only way to describe it is- the protective metal covers on disc brakes, sounds like they have become detached, so at slow speeds they rotate separately from the axle and then they sound like they get up to speed and go quiet? They havent come loose and everything seems ok on visual inspection? Loss of power seems to be sounding like it's coming from the front passenger wheel, there seems to be a vibration from there at 40-50? Now nothing has been changed or messed with since I've had they truck, but on looking around I have spotted that I have an earth strap from the front engine mount that should go to where the dip stick is bolted on is dangling under the truck. Number two the small 90 degree rubber pipe that is attached to the turbo looks like it is not as it should be and is probably only 50% open and is probably restricting flow? Could any of the two be causing the symptoms? Obviously I understand the turbo pipe could be affecting performance, but why now, when it hasn't for a year? Paul

Well, after all that! Drove back into the works car park at 10mph, guy from the store says " I can see your problem" I left a trail of diesel, popped the bonnet and the lift pump was doing its best to rid the lower part ofy engine of any crud deposited in the last twenty years! Mate mearby had an old one, which I've put on and seems all good? Touch wood........hopefully that's all folks? Till next time

Well, nothing's changed? To add to the poor running I know also seem to be leaking diesel from somewhere? I have a steady drip that I haven't found yet that seems to be making its way down and dropping off the clutch/gearbox area :-( ill investigate at the weekend, this could obviously be my source for air to be sucked in also

Hi again Yesterday i had a longish trip to make - 40 miles, nightmare! Every traffic light I came to I was lucky if she didn't stall? On inspecting the leak off lines I discovered the middle one was soaking wet, I've now replaced all three and put cable ties on each end of each pipe and it's better, but still not right. I've also replaced the fuel filter ( filled new one with diesel and wiped diesel around the rubber seal) Also there was signs of diesel on the pipe that enters the injector pump, now remedied. I did bleed the new filter and diesel pours out nice and clear with no signs of bubbling or fizzing, so I assume this means the main fuel line from the tank is ok? I've also nipped up the banjo bolts, at the weekend I will replace these or the copper washers at least, is my problem pointing at the injectors themselves now? I'm hoping today there is air in the system and it may right itself? Yeah, here's hoping LOL Regarding the leak off lines, as they start at the bulk head the first doesn't have a pipe? It looks the same as the others, should this be blocked off? The kit I bought did have two little red plugs in it, are these to blank off the first "v" shaped union? Paul

Thanks for the replays, it is reluctant to start every time I stop and restart and also as I said it has started to judder on idle.

Hi guys had a 110 with a disco lump in for a year now, been great until the last month? she started to struggle on starting after being left overnight, not every time but sometimes, she turned over, but for 5-6 seconds before firing? now were up to it being every time and running has started to be a problem? She never stalled but getting to the point where the symptoms are no fuel and runs really lumpy and doesn't respond to the accelerator for a few seconds, So far in the last day or two ive put in new glow plugs and dropped in a bottle of Wynns clean burn, just in case id picked up a bit of muck, but nothing is improving? What next to investigate? Paul

Right, spent most of the cold day yesterday trying to sort my problem. It seems to be that a previous owner has wired up the reverse light wrongly, it's probably been like this since I had it and never noticed(as most wouldn't) When in reverse and indicator is on the reverse light flashes in time with the indicators, great? Everything in the engine bay checks out, also at the back end and the switch in the gearbox So unplug the reverse from the wiring loom and everything is back to normal, I can't find or eliminate the problem as I'm not great with electrics. Is it possible to bypass the wiring loom and run another cable from the switch in the gear box and to the light that is activated when in reverse? Paul

In my quest to solve an electrical issue I wanted to remove my steering wheel, so googled it. Most people were talking of a removal tool? This is what I did, found a 3 inch hinge and two bolts that fitted into the holes on the wheel. Loosen the central nut, leaving it on. Screwed both bolts through the closed hinge into the threaded holes on the steering wheel and tightened them up, pop went the steering wheel, simple and free of charge. Hope this my help someone else.

Ok, new stalk switches fitted, bulk head earths, removed and sanded-resecured. Also followed earth from battery and checked that earth-all good, looks a bit of a mess wiring wise behind the binnacle, nothing I can do though? I did unplug (one by one) and then replug everything, my expertise with electrics doesn't go that far. Could I say slight improvement? The lights don't now come on when I connect the battery, only when I turn on the ignition? As I said it was a bit of a mess behind the binnacle, especially from the starter, think I'll order a new one, unless anyone can suggest anything else?

Got the steering wheel off and remove all switches, reconnected the battery and still the same problem, at least I've eliminated the stalk assembly? I will try the earth point when I return from collecting my new unit

Not seen any smoke or smelled anything odd? I'm today awaiting a new switch assembly for the steering column as there seems to be a jubilee clip holding the old one in place as the plastic has snapped, so it all turns with the steering wheel. I've also seen a little blue spark and a little puff of smoke when I put the lights on with this old unit, so I'm hoping it's the problem? If it's not it will cure the problem that sometimes the headlights would turn of physically at the stalk when turning the steering. More later........

Hi guys Any ideas, I have a 1990 defender with a disco engine, yesterday went to start it........nothing! The clock had stopped, so I assummed flat battery? After a good few hours charging, the battery was pronounced dead (it was also to small, only 550 cranking) Quick search on eBay and I'm now the proud owner of a brand new Bosch unit cranking at 930, no probs with starting, there was however a few disturbing things. As I connected the live terminal the heater, side lights, reverse light dash light and indicators came on (indicators where perminatley lit) none went off even no keys in, any ideas Paul

its the same colour as mine? I now have a 1991 110, deffo same colour, but I have no idea as to the name? Just thought it may prove its a LR colour?

Hiya I had this same problem on my last truck, turned out to be the ignition barrel, replaced that and all was fine. From what I can remember on inspection of the barrel there are three ball bearings in a plastic channel, they had set themselves free with wear on the plastic causing them to be live all the time. You really need to sort this, mine was at a local garage parked on the main road and it kept trying to start itself, (I had a battery isolator key that was off!) if it had been in gear it would have lurched down the road. Paul

Well I got my heating back, which is good. But I may have uncovered another problem???? it was lack of water in the system that caused my non heating, in total I put about 7 litres in to get it topped up??? My fault for not checking on a more regular basis I Know, but there has been no evidence of a leak anywhere. I know its been bad weather recently so leaks may have been overlooked? but i haven't used the truck that much and when i have the ground underneath has been dry?? so tomorrow i'm going to empty the system again as there wont be a lot of coolant in there now, re-fill anti put some Radweld in to try and stop the problem, can anyone suggest where water would disappear to if its not on the floor?? Paul

Hi guys Changed the thermostat today, short trip to work and got the engine temp up to about 70, no heat still :-( I will check out the other suggestions when I can Paul

Thanks both I know from the old truck I'm due some problems after two months?? I've just had no time, just thought a quick post someone would give me the solution to a warm truck (LOL) I've just had no time to give it a proper work over and get it how I want it, I've now in this one got a sun roof (that now leaks) and doors that p#ss water in, so a day or two needed just getting it right. 6 years now been doing the landy thing...........you only get 7 for murder, would I change anything???? BLOODY HELL.... NO! Looking forward to more winter mornings, defrosting inside and outside and cold drives, I'm sure the heating will kick in around summer time?