sharpy

Nothing here??? Paul

Hi Ralph, I did spot that little hair thin wire in the previous two and they look intact? I don't know it works now Thanks very much for your time and suggestions Paul

SORTED! Don't know why the other two gauges didn't work the third one does, just goes to show third time lucky ;-) Paul

Hi I have tested the sender and the results are Sender at full = 0.01 sender at empty = 0.32 tested at the 20 ohm setting There was also an increase/decrease throughout the range so I assume that means the sender is ok? I have just bought my third fuel gauge and I'm off to have a play with that, I think the only thing I may not have mentioned is that the other two gauges I had removed the green sheath that makes the display green, that wouldn't have any bearing on them not working would it? I took them out, carefully in pieces from the back where they mount, I mean literally in pieces with long nose pliers. Paul

I will have another go tomorrow when I can get another tester, mine didn't read anything, anywhere? Paul

Well I understood it, but didn't get any reading at all? Maybe I didn't understand it? Or the meter doesn't work? As I had it given to me. I've given up for tonight, as it stands when the tank is empty it shows full and when it's full it actually pushes a little further to the F .????? Paul

I bought a new sender yesterday and I have been trying both senders, I have an electrical tester, not sure how to use it though apart from the bell test feature

Tried the above, gave it a brand new earth, from the bulkhead and also a new signal wire with the live feed coming from the original. Same results, gauge on full when sender at empty and vice versa? There is no movement between empty and full, it's one extreme or the other? Tried this with two gauges, same result, surely two gauges can't be faulty, they were ok when removed? Just as another test I have also wired up a temp gauge to the same wiring and that does the same movement, one extreme or another? Yours, very confusselled Paul

Yeah I have had it that way, in fact that's how it is now but I have the slate/grey to the left which makes the low fuel function. I'm gonna directly wire the green/black and the black from sender to gauge this morning, see if that changes anything? Paul

Hi again Ralph and all, Bit of an update, replaced the temp gauge and that works now, for some reason it must have gone faulty in the swap? Still no fuel gauge though? It reads full all the time but the low fuel warning light is coming on when I go round corners etc, I have sort of put it down to the sender? Picked a new one up today and if nothing else it makes it easier to switch wires and see where the gauge should be. I also got the loan of another fuel gauge from a similar year truck just in case the gauge had also died. Now to start with I know the correct order for the wires at the sender, left to right black,green/black, White/slate. The Brit Part sender I fitted a couple of years ago only worked if I wired it White, black, green? I don't know, but it worked?.. The new unit no matter how I connect it will only read backwards? Full on gauge, sender arm at it's lowest, empty on gauge, sender arm at it's highest? I'm at a loss now as what to do, don't want to rely on low fuel lamp or clocking the miles, HELP.......................... Paul

When you say stiff? What exactly do you mean? Mine went solid just before last Xmas, couldn't change gear. Turned out the thrust bearing had disintegrated, clutch fork had become undone. New clutch, fork, bearing and slave cylinder Paul

Hi again Having fitted mine and my mates I would say there easy, the only tip I would give is when you recover the seat base you have to apply spray glue (on both manufactuers) on the centre, where your bum sits. I would do this part very carefully so it's in the correct position and leave it at that stage for a good couple of hours this way the covering will really get hold and take on the shape of the foam, I didnt leave my first one long enough and with the resistance of the foam it didn't stick properly, it has settled now but it was a disappointment for a few months. Paul

Hiya, does it say what they are made from? my mate covered his with Brit part seat covers and he has alredy after 4 months put a tear in them from a clip or something on his jeans. I paid around £160 for a exmoor trim kit and did mine myself, been on now two years and not a mark, we use the truck everyday and have two large staffys that like to sit on the seats, so i would recomend exmoor. the quality is better, mine have real stitching on the covers, the britpart ones are plastic welded stitches, they look nasty. my opinion, 4 what its worth, recover yours if you have a set, doesnt take long and is an easy job Paul

We had the same thing a few weeks ago on a mates 90, he had been a little over zealous going through a ford(several times) result was sparks and smoke from the starter a couple of days later

I have just emailed the guy from eBay to see if he can shed any light on it? I did before purchasing ask about installing them into a 12v car set up and he has sent them all pre-wired with a tiny resistor already set in the loop, so I assume that this will give it the resistance of a standard bulb? The only thing I have asked him is could it be affected by the wiring because some of the connections behind the binnacle are negative fed? Paul

Hiya Ralph, thanks for following this, the gauges are original 90, but it's not a new install, I've always had the setup I have now, correct senders to make it work, all I have done basically is fitted a Raptor bezel and LEDs instead of the normal 90 warning panel. Paul

Hi again, Progress or lack of report, today I have swapped the looms over the same results as my first post. Have got hold of an electrical tester and bell tested every wire from the rubber multi plug to their respective endings, all check ok on both looms, also tried two temp gauges again on both looms in the new dash and out of it, what the he'll have I done? Is there a special way to rig up the negative as you bridge across to each clock? Surely a negative is a negative wherever it comes from? Any help very welcome. Paul

Hiya, Since having my 90 I have always had a side exit exhaust (3years now) mine comes out on the passenger side between the rear wheel and door, it's in about the same position as the fuel fill on the drivers side, if you know what I mean? I have just upgraded/fixed it as it was a mesh of bits I picked up, so now it's mainly 2 1/2 inch pipe. A friendly exhaust place bent up the pipes for me and then I have welded or clamped as required. As for MOT, mine has always gone through no problems with exhaust and it has no silencers on it whatsoever. We did the same to a mates 110, removed silencers, his also passes MOT, infact only two weeks ago and mine six weeks ago. The noise level isn't as loud as you think, under load/at speed it does get louder, but I wouldn't change it. If any tells you that it isn't legal, they are wrong, there are still cars being made with factory fit side exit exhausts which are perfectly road legal. For mine you can buy stainless ready made exhausts that are side exit, I suppose it depends on where you want it to exit? They are for me pricey though at £399.00 Paul

Yeah forgot to mention that, everything I'm using worked on the truck yesterday? Same loom, dials, connectors all the same? Nothing has changed, that's why I'm pulling out what little hair I had!!! Apart from what I have already stated the only change is a saw to the plastic binnacle, surely that can't affect stuff, can it? I'm not yet sure if the speedo works properly as I haven't driven it. There is one small other possibility, the other half went out in it yesterday and filled it up with diesel (not likely) and today it's been 620 degrees in the shade, which obviously counts for the temp gauge?

Hi all, Before I start I hvve googled my ass off trying to sort this! I have just fitted a custom binnacle in my 1987 LR90 fitted with a disco 200tdi, looks good but doesn't work that well??? Firstly I have dumped the old warning light panel and fitted it with 10 LR coloured warning lights which for me is enough. 1 All the LEDs work fine except the oil warning light is slightly on when the engine is running? 2 both temp and fuel are indicating hard to the right, truck is cold and I know I'm around 1/4 of a tank? I have tried swapping the green/black and green/blue around as I have read varying opinions on the net, and I have put it to the correct formation as in all the manuals, when the wrong way around the fuel looks about right but the temp is steadily rising into the red with the engine off? I have even connected another temp gauge in and out of the dash, with and without the earth cable and this doesn't change it's reading either? All the other lights work on the binnacle so I assume that they all share the same negative at the rubber plug, so all should be ok or not? Apart from LEDs the only two changes to the standard setup is that I have split the indicators into left and right, the feed is already there it's just into one as standard, the other is that the new binnacle is a custom cut from raptor and I've had it made so that the clocks all mount with the bodies mount through it and the faces sit on top now, I assume the new part is made from Ali and anodised black and I have used the original u shaped mounting brackets so the earth could be all through the dash, would that matter? I do have another top half of a loom that I will put in tomorrow to see if that's any different, but other than that......HELP!!!,!,! Paul

hi all thanks for the replies, maybe my first post wasnt that clear? my problem is that on the two outside corners there is a really sharp bend, normal vinyl when its bent around creates excess material that can only be cut off. its a bit like putting a sheet on a bed, obviously on a bed it doesnt matter. what i was looking for was a suggested material that would shrink fit to loose the extra bit im left with. paul

Hi all With my re-chassis looming I'm at the mo looking at refurbing my dash. At the mo it's sporting a rather sexy raptor centre (thanks Phil) but time to tidy 25 years of mis-use, I was thinking I could recover the black part of it myself with leather effect vinyl? But having taken off the bottom corners they seem to come from the factory with the vinyl (plastic welded?) obviously I can't do this has anyone found something that could be moulded with a hair dryer or similar that give a seamless finish? The rest of the dash I think is do-a-ble with spray gule and vinyl as it's all fairly straight. Paul

Thanks for that fellas, for the price I think I will try and fashion something from what I have, £40 is a lot of cash for two little bits of plastic Paul

And sorry, I think I posted in the wrong place DOH!

Hiya, I have googled this but can't seem to find the numbers for the overlays for heater position and the speed of the heater, I'm changing mine to the TD5 one at the weekend and wanted to get it all done. I do have the stick on affairs that are coming off my old binnacle, are these the same? Could I just take them off and superglue them to the new unit? Paul