Bingy

Yup, thats how i did it

If i am on the same wavelength as you Nige, i think it will. Are you suggesting that tab at the bottom show the factory 90 v8 Defender , for example Another for the 200tdi Defender etc. and the one that is your current setup? I think it is a good idea, as i no idea what mine was standard Many other folk may not either

Cheers lads Yes, a V8 sounds a lot Better than a V4 I was enjoying giving it some throttle listening to the engine @3000 revs In advance what info do I need to post so you can have a look at?

Next installment.... Finally got the inlets etc back from porting nice work all put back on. All megasqiurt wiring back on Then i realized. Staring me in the face, despite looking, looking, looking and more looking. Maybe i am getting mixed up with work,welders etc, thinking about settings too much. ABCD, ABCD, ABCD, ABCD not errr.........ABDC! (Yes i am THE richard head) Turned key. Cough splutter Turned key again............Bingo! All 8 firing as should https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrfcfCzCsC0 Quickly upto 3000-3500rpm Ran spot on for a good 5 mins then oil hose blew off cooler. So stopped straight away. But I can now get two new ones made up from my local supplier this week as these are standard ones chopped about to fit. But BIG thanks for your patience! I'll be back once ive fit the new hoses and Once ive done another 25 mins @ 3000 next weekend hopefully Music to my ears Thanks again

So if he were to change the ratios of the diffs and transferbox, together with diff pegging and a better gearbox he could have kept the 35 tyres on''?

Im glad this topic came up This is a quote from a bloke on the v8 forum Any comments

Cheers for the speedy reply Nige 4 days off so Im on it again

So I have finally got around to do the PWM valve Fits a treat (cheers for the kit Nige) Wiring wise, ehem struggling The PWM mods were on the 'to do' list on my install cd So with the relay board i remove the first realy ( which one in pic?) and i fit the jumper where does the orange wire go? from the PWM to ?? Cheers

x3 Reading as you say 'More laters' Nige, I was thinking a bit on security and saftey of the spare. Maybe a bit of flat plate (10 mm thick say 100 mm wide) welded in between front and rear loop with a hole in. Then another bit of plate with a few studs welded downwards , the same as a hub, welded to a peice of solid round bar in the middle going down through the wheel and the big flat plate. A hole in the end of the round bar big ewnough for a lock so it can be Lockable underneath and out of sight when the door is shut. And the wheel centre can still be filled with bits and the wheel wont slide all over the place as you hit the loud pedal Just a thnought Nige

Yes I have also had the noid tester flashing away on the cylinders and also the inline led spark testers. But as Mr Noisy has pionted out, are they doing it at the right time? How do i check this out?

Nope the vid is the best and longest its run Maybe im too cautious

If this works, here isa sort video PLEASE excuse my camera skills and the lack of having umpteen hands It takes a bit to get the video going BUT any commets considered http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvbEls1GjKk&feature=youtu.be

Charlie, the engine is all new. The engine builder built it up and timed the cam in when it was built. All i have fitted to the engine is the front timiing cover ancilleries and the inlet manifold and rocker covers But i have also fitted megasquirt. when i started the engine, strangeley it only ran on 4 cylinders from one set of coils i swapped the coil for the other and strangeley it was the same cylionders firing and not the opposite ones ruling out the coils. I have been very cautious in starting the engine, only letting it run at most for a miniute or two. i have been worried that i may have wiring problems regarding megasquirting install But i havent treid running any longer in case of damaging the engine which is far more valuable than the megasquirt but abviously i need to get it right in order to run the engine at a minimum of 2500 revs If you see what i mean Once all the inlet manifold etc is back on and all replumbed in im going to give it a good go - despite all my worries. My enigine builder said i was correct in keep stopping and checking things rather than just trying to sort it out whilst it was running John

Bit of an update............. I got a set of noid testers and thes semm to flash away happily as do the the inline led spark plug caps. I took all the injectors out, connected them one by one to a pressurised garden sprayer full of fuel and a battery. These all seemed to squirt fine. I smashed up a spark plug, put a long 8mm bolt in and with a dti I once again checked the timing and that the trigger wheel was right on no1 cylinder I bought a compression tester and did a compression test the readings were all over the place I took the rocker covers off and all looked good, oil in there I took the Plenum, trumpets and inlet manifold off together with the valley gasket All looks good in there too. I squirted some oil all over the valves, tappets cam and lobes and turned it over by hand all looks good. So i rang Ray Webb at V8 Developments, my engine builder and asked him what the compession should be and told him what i had. He said that doing a test was useless. He said that the engine needs to run for 3-4 miniutes to fully pump up the tappets. Without the tappets being fully pumped with oil a compression test is useless. I mentioned that i was having problems getting the engine to start, but i had also fitted a Megasquirt. As the engine wasnt running properly, i was thinking it was the megasquirt and not the engine He said that the needed to run to get the oil up to the tappets etc to get the full lift of the ? Without this the valves werent opening to there full capacity. He did say that if i was struggling with the install he would ask Phil to take a look as he is the guy that imports megasquirts into the counrty Or if i wanted to telephphone Shaun the guy that sets up MS2 for him he would gladly give me his number Im sticking with you guys though, you lot know all about landrovers and MS1 and Nige is only at the end of the phone Regarding the Megasquirt, my mate freid the chip . Nige got it checked out. New board needed ( Lets not go there.........arrrrrgh) But all the above was done on the old board and fitting the new USB one things were exactly the same Before the engine was stripped of the top inlets etc i did a short video of it running ( albiet roughly) But its 54mb and i have shortened it as much as i can I dont know how to upload a video, but would like someone to look at see whats what. So where am i upto? As the inlets, plenum and trumpets are off im getting them ported upto 45mm and 72mm plenum. Theresa no point having stage three heads and choking it on standard inlets The rad is in and theres just the header and heater to pipe And i just need to get some new oil pipes either made or i will make them up Then its ding ding round two Fingers crossed John

Sort of back on to the topic.... I have been to the Skipton 4x4 autojumble twice. For me, its pretty useless Apart from two commercial sellers i use, most of the stalls are full of old tat. I do try and look interested as i walk around, but it doesnt take all that long tbh. Im normally in and out within the hour and that includes a brew. If a seller looks dodgy then i just walk straight past. Having said that i recently went for my driving licence renewing and the post office bloke asked if the photo was from when i was in prison I would die if any of my landys were stolen and always try to buy things all above board. Even if i do pay more for them but i also try to use reputable sellers Many folk say that Newbury and Malvern are far better, But they are also a lot father to travel i may get there one day

It does run Just on four cylinders i have a log, but dont know how to put it up

i was suspicious of this too. The MS Extra guys told me to look on tuner studio and that would tell me what was installed After looking i had an earlier version So i have updated to 29y4 as the map is supposed to be for. It now connects straight away on comms port 1 on the Jimstim Im still waiting for the postie to bring a Noid set and i also bought an inlne spark plug tester to see if the coil is still sparking under load. As soon as all the gear arrives i will report back. Would it help diagnostically if i did a megalog or is this just for running engines? Cheers lads

60...................... Well done Nige Sounds (and goes) well

There are many ways to skin a cat..... !st im going to try it with a length of 6 inch pipe It used to connect to coms port 1 since re installing megatune i have got down to coms port 20 still no joy. ''Verify ECU Connection Click to test No responce

Are you all sitting comfortably Then i will begin Once upon a time........................... Nige i bought the full 3.9 kit off you, all unbuilt I gave the board and all the resistors etc to the geek (idiot) at work to build for me Half way through the build i swapped to the 4.6 Once the board was built ( nearly 18 months later) i was given the rest of the kit back to fit on my motor Wiring loom kit, lambda, ait, etc I asked you for a new map and you sent one together with a pwm kit You also sent me an install cd with the 4.6 map on Once it was ready to start and despite several arguments with the geek i needed the cd to load megatune onto the laptop. The swore blind that he had given it to me with the kit. I knew i didnt have it So.................i downladed the latest version ( oooops) Afer all the help and advise on here i showed the idiot at work your email this morning nige, who still swore he didnt have it. I asked him what the cd was down the side of the printer Dunno.........erm ah oops here. The correct cd finally turns up. I have just rushed home , uninstalled the old megatune software installed the correct stuff and i now get this .... BUT its not over yet No matter what coms i try it on it wont connect Either on or offline. Go easy with me lads, im only a humble welder

v8 developments do dyno engines but didnt do mine as they wanted it fit the megasqiurt kit to the flywheel and only do full engines megasquirt is niges megasquirt1 v3 with edis I wouldnt mind somebody having a proper look at the board to make sure all the components are on correctly Errors/warnings As for carbs, ha ha i was just thinking about ripping the whole lot off and sticking a pair of SU's on But then i still need the ignition side

I keep thinking about this Its now doing my nut in. Rather than trying this and that, Do you not really think that i should get the board checked over first? If the board hasnt been correctly put together, its never going to do what it should Yes i have had it on the jimstim and the led lights flash But that all that has been checked. The lad who built it said that he couldnt check the ignition side of things. Not only that, i have downloaded megatune and installed Niges 4.6 safe map. I have set the tps on megatune and the serial port connection, but do i need to set anything else up. When i load the map, megatune says that there are 477 read errors. I was just told to agree to them and carry on Is this correct? Who feels sufficiently confident and proficient enough to have a good look at my board then? Beer tokens can be supplied to the successful candidate I thought the power commander for the bike was a pain to fit Glad that is only a v-twin

I haven't done a compression test yet Cam was put in when engine was built by rob at v8 developmwnts

Reporting back Sirs Starting with the injectors. All cleaned and all squirt off the car on a spare battery Fuel Goes from pump, through landrover metal filter, Into fuel rail passing the injectors to regulator Goes through regulator into a clear second filter into tank return. II can see the petrol pumping through the clear filter towards the retun on tank Pressure is 35 psi, ignition on not cranking. Injector wiring Two positives per side from the relay board Ignition to injctors then piggy back to second injector like so 1 wire goes from relay board Ignition terminal to 1 then 3 1 wire goes from relay board Ignition terminal to 5 then 7 1 wire goes from relay board Ignition terminal to 2 then 4 1 wire goes from relay board Ignition terminal to 6 then 8 Negative side Injectors 1 on MS board 1 wire goes from relay board to 1 then 3 1 wire goes from relay board to 5 then 7 Injectors 2 on MS board 1 wire goes from relay board to 2 then 4 1 wire goes from relay board to 6 then 8 All have been checked for continuity wire by wire this afternoon all correct. Ignition wires on Edis have been checked for continuity this afternoon all correct. Coil sensor wires have all been checked for continiuity this afternonn all correct I even paistaikingly checked all 37 wires for continuity on the link from the MS board to the Relay board All spark plugs have been removed and cleaned. All HT leads have been checked Spark plugs placed in leads right bank first led on top of rocker cover. all 4 fire Spark plugs placed in left hand bank on top of rocker cover all 4 fire Any more suggestions

Cynic-al, thanks for tryng to help Yes i have seen all the plugs spark. The injectors i have in are for a 1998 p38. Black with a small greeny blue band around the neck. No i didnt know i needed a resistor pack. Do i need some for these? How many and where do they go if i need them? two from each bank are firing and two are not. 1 (coil A) and 3 (coil c) wired together. (injectors 1) 5 (coil B) and 7 (coil d) wired together (injectors 1) 2 (coil C) and 4 (coil D) wired together (injectors 2) 6 (coil A) and 8 (coil B) wired together (injectors 2) These all run back to the ms relay board and are placed into the corresponding holes Ones on coils A and B Fire 1, 5, 6, 8. Ones on coils C and D dont fire. 2, 3, 4, 7. Is there a safe way of checking the amount of current from the output of the coils? I have seen them all spark, but is the spark big enough? Is the inside of the coils faulty?