Bingy

Having listened to both the files a few times, I dont think it is the engine. The second file you can also hear scraping as the engine is bieng run. I personally would be taking the transmission out and having a look at the plate as others have also said. But thats just my theory hth

Another one up for a set Simon John

As others have said^^ I used the black/red wire from the side of the original switch (spaded connections) Not from the ones on the back of the switch. Sounds like you sorted it now though

Funnily enough i have one in my works van LWB Sprinter. IIRC the parrot can only store a few phones to connect to. so if all the bluetooth pairings are full, you have to delete at least one so that it will look for a new phone to pair with. I think that the pairings are in the settings menu iirc. http://parrotcontact.emencia.net/website/user-guides/download-user-guides.php?pdf=ck3100/CK3100_Quick-start-guide_UK-FR-SP-DE-IT-NL-PT.pdf user guide and cable connections hth

i run mine without the fan on. Warms up a bit quicker Its been off two years now and not had a problem. But it is still in the rear just in case things take a turn for the worse

Have you tried re syncing your key with the alarm?

When i bought my TD5 Disco it had an Optima red top one which eventually failed 3 years ago. I replaced it with a Numax. The Disco is sat outside in all weathers, sometimes covered in snow 3-4 weeks at a time. Obviously the alarm slowly drains the battery, but i know i can go to it and i know it will start straight away no messing. On another note, i bought an Odyessey extreme for the challenge truck im building. Read all the reviews, had lots of good things said about them. I got one from frogs island last June 2013 Aftewr a few starts on the motor and some wiring work the battery kept draniing as the engine wasnt always running. I put the Odyessey on charge using a recommended ctek charger on snowflake mode and the batttery failed. Had to send it back to them, they tested it themselves and replaced it FOC under warranty In hindsight though, i wish i had bought another Numax

I have the full kit on my 4.6 90 As Rob has said it did need a bit of tweaking to get it to fit better i had to cut a bit off one side before it went into the y peice And also had to weld the bung on for the Megasquirt lambada probe Its fairly loud in the garage and mine also says falcon on the plates tacked to the exhaust

Funnily enough i have just received the messages Seconds previously it asked me if i wanted to upgrade to the new version Which i agreed to hmm

4.6 safe base master 2011 MSQ.msq

As others have said try and convert your machine to use gas. Its a lot easier and neater in the long run. Looking at the welds, looks like a lack of penetration and at first glance i thought you had welded it using stick rods

Have you thought about using a spool gun and attatching it to the mig welder? If it is a gassless machine maybe a slight adaptation on the pipe to the spool gun with a bottle and regulator?

Thanks for that. I didn't even consider the sensor. Now I've got a 52mm hole in the dash I need to fill. Looks like I need to get a clock

This maybe some use HTH

I do a lot of camping on the bike and for me and my mates all have the Kyham range. My 3 berth folds up small and light enough to get on the back of the bike, No messing with poles as it has umberella type knuckle joints and if its raining it is up in a few mins. A seperate groundsheet is a good idea, also a good point made about having small rooms is a lot easier to warm up than one large room. Another tip a nurse told me, no matter how cold you are always remove your clothes when you get into your sleeping bag, as its your body heat that warms the bag up. If you leave you clothes on, your body heat wont be able to penetrate through all the layers to the bag.

Cheers. I'll have a look at it

Whilst im upto my ears still doing the devils knitting, would it be advantageous to fit an Air Fuel guage? I know that this can be monitered on the laptop, but i dont always want to drive around with that plugged in. Whilst im adding wires and electrickery i thought that this could be a viable guage to install. Thanks

Just a suggestion as am normally wrong, but, do you not need to factor in the extra 10 degrees for the missing tooth on the trigger wheel?

A big thanks to all regarding this and the Td5 dash threads Just got to wire the green transducer thingy at the gearbox then the dash conversion is finished It was a bit more entertaining as im using an early v8 loom Speedo still looks a mile out TD5 Warning lights

Yes, it sure does look right, its the 37"s which mean the need for 4.75s, you might even consider 1.4 TBOX as well !! Cheers Nige I do have a 1.4 tbox and a 1.6 ex military, but thought the 1.2 would be better for cruising. (not that you can in a challenge truck) I'll give the sweet shop a ring next week Ta John

Just to confirm please before i think of going to the sweet shop After it has re-opened for the holidays Does this look/sound right And according to the chart i need 4.75 R&P gear 4.6 v8 LT85 1.2 LT230 37'' Dia tyres (measured) Thanks John Megasquirt gear calculator nov 2013 v12 (2).xls

I see another A+E trip looming.....

Defineteley maybe spectatoring, camping, and have a go at marshalling. Got to sort dates out with work first so cant confirm just yet

Thanks, yes just removed and all working fine with a lot of twiddling of the glass fuses - more upgrading me thinks Thanks

After struggling to sort out the wiring for the headlights all weekend I did some searching and found a thread to remove the relay, the one in question is the older metal finned object and link the thick blue wire across. If I did this and put a relay on each feed for the dim/main headlights Would this be the correct way to go? Cheers John