monkeyb0y

How do you tell what revision or suffix it is for parts..might be what he's asking.? Rich

Just seen starter won't turn bit.....my previous post may not apply now...

I think the spider is related...my alarm kept going off for no reason....wouldn't start but turned over....it was last week...stripped out the spider and numerous dry and broken joints...if it is, you can just re solder and everything should work..check fuses first but its a fair bet....

Well after it getting worse and getting worse, and last straw was getting stranded at morrisons today and gettin a tow home, I stripped the centre console out, and opened the spider...sure enough 2 dry / broken solder joints. All joints soldered and it seems ok. I'm sure its fixed it..and my post last night relating to the alarm going off was probably related. Big thanks bog monster for a great post on the definitive spider post....its pretty standard and easy to follow... I'm happier now...incidently I got breakdown cover with rac today for a fiver...which starts next week... I'm over the moon with this fix... Forum strikes again! Rich

For no reason, its gone off twice in last hour...when I last ran down to plipper it to turn it off...the cabin light came on after I hit the fob and inside was a massive moth flying around...am I been silly or could it be the cause maybe if its landing on the roof sensor ? Rich

thats one hell of a loss of height....However bad the springs and shocks were, would they drop that much?.. Also, not that it makes much diff, but are 235\75\16 standard?..i thought standard was 205\somat\16 ? best thing is to try and park it next to another one in asda or some other carpark and take a look at both from distance?..try and gauge where your loosing the height... if they are gone that bad....your gonna notice a difference when you stick some new ones on Rich

the missus...."i dont like the bumper, why not get a new HD one - with winch"?

lol...no it isnt....its hanging down on the footwell at the mo better sort that out then.... Rich

thanks very much BM, just found it, ill try the repair first as my job is PCB maker and im fully happy with dry joints and track repairs Rich

Hey All, i need some advice - im having worsening immobiliser problems which i think maybe spider related... Its a sensitive subject for public viewing so if need be, id be greatfull for PMs to tell me how to bypass the immobiliser?.. Its a 96 TDi 3dr....and occasionaly, when ive got in, the engine has just spun but not fired as im pretty sure fuel is not being allowed thru.. If I get out, lock it, leave it for 5mins, then unlock, key in - it will usually start... But, since last week, other things are happening - the most interesting when driving a short distance - the engine just died....i pulled up, turned key and it spun over quite healthily but i was fairly sure no fuel was getting through...as thou it had electronically switched off.. Left it for half hour - locked, unlocked then she fired up fine... Today, came out of work, and it just turned over...After some retrying, locking, unlocking, it eventually fired up... The little green box in the passenger footwell area ocasionally ticks - amd if knocked,will bring on the hazzards that cant be turned off unless car is locked with plipper. And, the led on dash will sometimes behave strange...I even suspect a loose wire or dry joint on this green box if it is linked?... I know youcan run wires from\to solenoids and bypass this menace - but im not sure where they need to go?..am i right in thinking the spider is near the radio \ heater controls area - and the green box is the ECU? Can anyone help \ PM me - id be greatfull.... Or maybe just advise if there maybe other areas im overlooking - and its not the spider?... Im not convinced its any other fuel flow related issue like filters or air getting in.. thanks Rich

Itll get even better if she forfiets next months "shoes & handbag" allowance to put the money towards the shocks?... LMAO... Rich

knackered pan-hard rod bushes?

Cheers, it is exactly same disco - reg and all..! Ill take it to bits weekend and check - was it a bigger job than you thought?.. Hopefully easy enough but they all start that way Rich

Hi all, Driving today, up to a junction, indicated right, and as i made the turn, and straightened up, the indicator wouldnt cancel and kept "clicking in the steering cowel area" as thou a sprocket was stripped or somat broke... It cancels manualy and operates OK if the lever is used, but wont cancel with the motion of the steering shaft.. Is this "the usual" symptom to say its time for a new stalk - the old ones worn out?.. they're only £15 quid but im just hoping for clarificating that this is the case and its not just an adjustment? thanks Rich

this is good stuff... Thanks Rich

in case its had "alternate" stuff run through it and its soap'd up... or clogs Rich

wonder if its a axel prob?..i would be inclined to look towards a drivetrain problem \ axel? Try your diff lever on the offchance theres a DT prob? sounds like somethings sheared or stripped suddenly.... no sure if you can take the front prop off??? to disconect drive here??? Rich

Hi All, just seen a post on a guy stuck away from home with limited tools - which has made my mind up to make this post! - i was considering it anyway!! What tools\spares should i (do you) keep in back incase of breakdowns... theres several considerations i want to take into account for my circumstances... Going away - on hols for example, i want to limit what space i use for tools... If it breaks, what is likely to be repairable \ with \ what parts im carrying..? Breakdown cover (is it bettter to take hit and have this and carry next to nothing?) I want to maybe restrict mytool kit to a standard toolbox (2" X 10')-ish what do i take... Spares.. Serpentine belt. Diesel Filter Aray of fuses \ bulbs gaffer tape (if the sealent gives up on sunroof in a storm lol) Tools.. Sockets\wrench Spaners Molegrips Pliers Im talking normal usage here, what is capable of being fixed & feesable, the common things that can be done roadside, or achievable in a mobile \ away from home situation within reason..Are there any hidden "little" things that can be taken or used to prevent disaster? Rich

PS, the above link is credited to someone else (Mr Orange \ Mark)...i used it as a benchmark for my own repairs.. Rich

take a look here, mine was same...this is bible for what to do - all completly MOT friendly Box section was 65 quid both sides delivered last Xmas for mine!...6 sheets of 1.8 thick steel for 20 quid(i think it was - i wanted to go thicker - cut the lot out - I never welded much before either - by using proper gas bottle with mig (not disposables - theyll cost 100s..)you start getting good seam welds after practice.. I enjoyed it that much, i was cutting anything out with light \ medium rust on in the end - i had to stop myself doing anymore http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=16471 Rich

Is it possible that the problem you are seeing now could cause the timing belt to go in 1st place?.. What age was the timing belt?..was it OEM?.. if your sure it went through age \ lack of changing?...then fine... but if the cam is not turning freely\sluggish???? could it have caused the belt to strip? Is it snapped or stripped? maybe far fetched but ive lost a rover 2300 engine this way where the head started seizing and stripped the belt....which became apparent when the head was refurbed Rich

Hey all, Had my MOT today - after my TDi300 has been off the road for 6 months...It passed with only advisor that number plate on front was starting to delam Spent 6 months welding new box section sills, both front wheel arches up to headlight rebuild including battery trays, both rear wheel arches, inner wings at back & front, new brake pipes where needed, drivers front caliper replace...etc,etc,, Without the help of you guys on here, i wouldnt be here now gloating as this has what has helped me get her back on the road.. Still got lot to do including bootfloor and rear crossmember before next time, but im made up - considering this was my first real welding experience..It proves theres hope for us newbies... The tester said it was "better welding than what he usually see's and was pleased with the work.. The secret of my success was to rent a large bottle of gas and use unfluxed mig wire...flux cored is carp IMHO and did not weld the same for me.. Just going to tax her from tuesday, and its a summer of fun in the pipeline.. heres to all you chaps, les, adrian, mark - and others...thanks for your help and advice Rich

if you have quick release stuff like front wheels, be wary these could be nicked in an instant if you dont go thru them with the chain?.. same really for any other items quick release... pity you cant get em up on the roof somehow?...it would make em less accessable.. rich

thanks...

sounds like mine - and i think, mine maybe layshaft bearings.... everyones different though...might be worth an oil change and check the plug for severity of fillings.... then refill with correct oil and some molyslip...see if this improves things?.. Rich