FridgeFreezer

I need a brake system for the 109, with a servo. I have a stock 109 pedal box but the servo & m/c were removed and used on another vehicle (coughJAMESMORFEEcough) so I need to source a replacement. The 109 will have discs all round. I have played with a RR servo at the lab but it doesn't fit. So, what I need is a setup that will fit a Series/defender bulkhead (I don't mind cutting the wing a bit) and give a decent amount of assistance. If anyone has a setup for sale locally (Portsmouth) I'd be interested.

Mark (AKA BT) who's been helping corrode_finger usually has several of those ally floors kicking round although he's in Southampton I may be able to pick a floor up for you and get it to Nige (I'm sure he'll love that)

If you don't have one, a pipe flaring tool and some pipe & fittings are a worthwhile investment about now I have a flaring tool you can borrow if you need it.

Real Steel sell most nuts and bolts, usually in an uprated flavour and not too pricey. Their catalogue is hazardous to your credit card though

Do you mean different part numbers or just different manufacturers of clutch?

In between working on the 109 over the weekend I also helped in the gradual de-f-up-ing of the lodger's bike. One of the problems since he dropped it has been that the rear 6" of the frame was no longer meaningfully attached (it wasn't exactly rock-solid beforehand) anyway here you can see the before and after shots of it, I don't think I did too bad but then anything would be an improvement I know it's a bit OT for a Landy forum but I figured since I spent a portion of my weekend doing it when I should've been building the LR I may at least give you all a giggle from it. This was "a temporary repair to stop the back end falling off", would it surprise you to know that he's not an engineer? You can see the standard of the vehicle from the overspray (it's everywhere) and of course the offending pigeon droppings on the frame. A quick yank and it's off - it's obviously been chopped off here for a reason some time ago then "welded" back together but I'd love to know why as I can't see how you could stack the thing and damage just the tail bit to warrant this cut-n-shut. Was it a fashion statement or something? I bet you don't even need to see that full-size to see how great it is, funnily enough a fair few chunks of it fell off with a tweak from the pliers and the rest didn't take much grinding to make it part company And here's the "after" shot, I managed to find some tube that was an interference fit inside the frame, so I interfered with it with the hammer until it fitted I made a hole in the top of the chassis tube and the grab handle end tube, knocked the two of them together onto the sleeve leaving a ~2mm gap and then welded round it and puddle-welded the holes on the top. Hopefully he can carry a pillion now in (relative) safety Unfortunately I didn't have a soft-pad to hand so had to finish it off with the grinding disc / wire wheel, with a lick of paint (or some turd polish) it is hardly noticeable now, especially against all the other horrors that assault your eyes when you look at the thing. This week's project (for Dave not me thank f....) is learning how to use the fibre glass that Miketomcat very generously dropped round to see if the fairings (currently "repaired" with gaffa tape) can be put back together. If anyone has any bits of Honda CBR600 F-M (especially fairings) then PM me as I'm sure he'd be glad of some spares and if anyone wants a Kawasaki ZZR600-D with a starting problem then get in touch as it's cluttering up the patio

There are no current seat belts, or seats...

Two questions in one here: Firstly, I want to mount 3-point harnesses in the 109, but it's a CSW so has a rear row of seats which I'd quite like to keep (seems the standard instructions are "unbolt rear seat and bolt the rear mount to the rear seatbelt mount" ) I am currently planning on making a replacement for the grab-handle rail thing that used to be behind the front seats (near seat-top height) set back on a couple of plates that bolted where the top door hinge is on the B-pillar. Will this be enough? I'm not asking for it to pass a Euro NCAP safety test, just stop me from going through the windscreen if the worst happens. Second, are 3-point harnesses OK for the MOT or not? Does it depend on the mountings, and if so, will my mounting rail be within the realms of acceptability? I suppose a pertinent question is "are seatbelts a legal requirement for a 1978 vehicle" as that would save me a bit of time

Didn't some RR's have titania O2 sensors not the normal ones? These will not give a 0-1v reading. Normal lambdas read from 0v (massively lean) to 1v (massively rich) and the happy point (14:1 A/FR) is ~.45v

The LR I6 was a big beastie out of a very old Rover saloon car, fitted to SIIA's and S3's before the V8 came along. I doubt anythign from that install would be worth looking at these days. The AJ6 lump (which started as 3.6, then went to 4.0) apparently uses a very similar ZF auto to the RR 4-speed so the potential is there (some people have run the jag autos behind LR engines). I have no idea if the XK6 lump would be swappable into the place where an AJ6 once sat, I guess your mate would know? Have a read of the "Engine Bunfight" thread in the tools & fab forum.

You could measure the resistance of each coil, all four should be very similar values. As Nige says, if the misfire doesn't go away on dizzy then it sounds like a fault elsewhere. EDIS creates a MUCH bigger spark as you know, which creates much more efficient combustion and effectively leads to the engine running very lean (as Nige found out) compared to teh weak spark which leaves more unburnt fuel. This means the misfire could be "masked" on the dizzy setup a bit by the fact that it's effectively running a lot richer on the dizzy than it was on the EDIS. RV8's don't like idling lean so that is probably why it's happier on the dizzy. In short, could well be a fuelling thing.

What Western said - you need a crossover network cable (clicky) from laptop to desktop and then share the internet connection on the desktop. A wired DSL router (clicky) is a cheap and easy way to connect more computers or share a connection without having to have both computers on. As has been mentioned it also acts as an extra level of protection from hackers etc.

You wait sunshine, the dizzy will be for decorative purposes only soon enough Here's some piccies of Mike's rad:

I live very close to an industrial estate so we get a lot of free LR parts transportation and storage devices left in the alley: If you can find them, these are good for bigger loads, with one of these, some straps and some heaving you may be able to unload a chassis: The wickes ones have bigger wheels for rolling on gravel, or so I hear Failing that, two or ideally three people can lift any of those items a short distance.

Springs are different (larger on the salisbury I believe) and the diff nose is longer so you would need a shorter rear prop (you may find a stock one to fit or have to get a custom one made) the salisbury diff is almost indestructible (this is what you are gaining) but you lose maybe 1" ground clearance at the lowest point unless you shave the diff as Andy did on his Ibex.

Could be the valve, Phil knows how to nail an ECU together so doubtful it's that.

Thanks les, it's gradually coming together although it's still not clear from the diagrams what the Brown/Light Green wire does. On the defender diagram it looks as if it loops back through the park switch to the main supply to give 12v out of the blue/light green when the wipers are turned off mid-sweep and then it connects itself to ground when they park. Can anyone confirm this?

Sort of, tells me what the wires do but could do without the "black box" of an intermittent wipe control in there to show me how the self-park should be wired.

I have a Defender wiper motor going onto the 109 but don't have a defender manual to tell me what goes where to make it work (and IIRC the manual isn't actually that clear anyway) since the geniune switch is "'Ow much???" I want to use a nice one from VWP so can anyone explain what goes where?

People in glass houses, Mr Warne! If you count the arrival date at the lab as the build start date (which it really was, the faffing that went on before is best forgotten about as none of it got kept ) then it's been less than a year.

If it's leaking it will be an MOT fail I think, in the meantime live with it. The stock shocks from paddocks are pennies.

Got a sabre saw, it's not subtle though, I wouldn't attack my truck with it! I'm in Gosport if you want a borrow of it.

Around idle you should be running fairly rich (obviously no problem when the Weber was on there ) and you can stabilise the idle by sloping the map down a bit to the left/bottom of the idle area. That means that as the idle drops, it goes lean which makes it idle faster so it goes back up and goes rich. If you make the slope too great it will hunt / cycle round but if you get it right it will idle nicely. You can do a similar thing with ignition maps for a very stable idle. This may be daft but are you sure with the 2-wire valve that you weren't mixing + and - and 100%/0% PWM values - for example the idle circuit in MegaSquirt grounds the idle valve to operate it unless you have had it modified. Also sometimes if you have set an output to be inverted it will mean that 0% PWM would actually be flat out. Another check is that your MS has an uprated (TIP121 or similar) idle driver transistor as the original (ZTX450 / 2N2222) cannot handle the current for PWM. See step 62 of the MegaManual for info.

Worked for me last time, although I spent half the day trying to locate Petal - there's not many sites you can lose something so big and so yellow!

Why bolt a small light V6 to a land rover gearbox? Plenty of triallers use a centre-mounted FWD engine and box driving directly out to the axles through the old driveshafts. Not sure how it affects overall gearing, just fit bigger tyres Vauxhall EcoTec are a good bet, designed to be sensible (hence the name) but turned out so good they had to restrict them back down to being sensible if you remove the restrictions they are supposed to be pretty punchy, a mate was putting one in a Westfield but he was taking longer than Will about it...