RedLineMike
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Posts posted by RedLineMike
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9 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
Yeah I did read the post, but even a cheap starter is the thick end of £100 while a crank sensor is more around the £5 - £20 mark, and even if it's not the problem it doesn't hurt to carry a small cheap part that is a single point of failure.
in all the time ive worked on TD5s, the Crank sensor is a much rarer failure point than the common issue with the starter motors,
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do you mean spigot rings to reduce the centre bore of the wheel to suit?
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2 hours ago, Rick Upart said:
My car crank but don’t start, you think that starter motor can still be faulty even if it crank correctly?
yes,
when the starter breaks down internally it causes elecro magnetic interferance (EMF), ive had it on my own defender plus several others on customers, if you can get it plugged in the fault code for noisy crank signal is the indication that the starter is causing interferance -
47 minutes ago, Rick Upart said:
I saw that there is problems with crankshaft position sensor default and injector seal. Do you think that it can be the probleme?
A LR technician tell us that it can be fault negative or ground issue.
id suggest changing the starter motor itself as they can cause EMF interferance with the crank signal,
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10 hours ago, mikeh501 said:
Dont know how but the pinion is no longer supported by its bearings and is flopping about..... what on earth could cause this? only thing i can think of is that ive got different ring gears front to rear (they were built from bits to hand). ever had this?
Q1 are they the same ratio?
Q2 were the pinions matched to the crownwheels? its not a massive issue but it certainly helps as they are made as a matching set -
2 hours ago, landroversforever said:
Jesse Haines Fabrication does a portal kit using the H1 components. I think the kind pins are bushed rather than some kind of sealed bearing so not sure how they'd hold up outside of a dry rock crawling situation.
h1 portalboxes are now very sought after unsurprisingly 🤣
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Zim
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15 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said:
One look at the vehicle and I already knew what the circumstances were going to be - charging about like an idiot, driving where you shouldn't be, and emitting huge clouds of black smoke.
i can bet that they were the owners of hi vis, camo jacket, rigger boots & a popcorn & smoke map
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13 hours ago, Finn12 said:
I’ve got a 1988 landrover defender with a 19 J turbo that has just been rebuilt and she goes like Frick and rolls coal. The engine has done about 10,000 miles now not a single problem she has way more power than the TD5 discovery that I had before
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As a thought, just seen m7 bolts are a common fitment on BBS split rims , might be worth looking in that direction,
Main thing is for the love of baby Jesus, say no to stainless
#chromewontgetyouhome
#saynotostainless
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these were my go to alternator for 24v applications,
https://tinyurl.com/fdwxm8j6renualt magnum truck,
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8 hours ago, martyn668 said:
Evening all. I thought I was nearly finished rebuilding my Warn M8000i winch, but when I put it back together, I got some smoke from the motor, which even I know isn't good. It ran fine, and the cables weren't getting hot, but smoke is never good. It could be that I put vaseline on the motor terminals (which melted, and it might just have been that that caused the smoke), but I figured that they recommend you put vaseline on your battery terminals, so it must be OK on a winch terminal, right?
Anyway, I decided to go deeper into the electric motor. I'd already cleaned up the carbon brushes, and "polished" the armature, so i decided to look at the field windings. (That makes me sound like I know what I'm talking about. I understand the principles, but really, electricity is still magic to me.) I figured there might be arcing between the windings and the case. The insulation here is/was paper. Over the years, water has dissolved most of this, but I figure any trapped between the windings and the case is hopefully still there, but might try to replace it if I can get the windings out.
But that got me thinking,why paper? Why not something hardier, like a plastic sheet? Was it all down to cost at the Warn factory? If I can get the windings out, should I replace with thin plastic sheet rather than paper? Or is paper the best thing?
Plenty of stuff on the internet about rebuilding Warn winches, but I couldn't find anything about paper, so I thought I'd ask here.
the fact the terminals got hot enough to melt the vaseline that you put on there would indicate to me that you either have a poor connection somewhere or a very high resistance
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On 4/8/2021 at 11:06 AM, steve200TDi said:
Yes, I was surprised at how many channels it was shown on including the news!
Apparently due to the dust the qualifying format was changed from a head to head style to a rally format where one team goes out and sets a lap before the next team and so. I think this format worked very well as the drivers could concentrate for speed and the correct line over worrying about dust and hitting another car which is what happened in the main race.
It will be interesting to see how the format unfolds for the next race in May as I thought the 'head to head' final races where a bit of a let down as once one car gets out in front the other two are in the dust!
Steve
personally i prefer the head to head with the side by side starts,
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oil pressure for the engine & oil temp for the gearbox especially if its an auto, its what i have in the race car
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35 minutes ago, Nonimouse said:
TD5 poor starting list:
Filter
Pump
Loom
MAF and other associated sensors
FPR (must be hitting 4 bar minimum)
Glow plugs
EGR
Injectors
Head
I thinks that's about it, but no doubt I have missed something
starter itself is always worth a change before changing the Crank sensor
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12 minutes ago, Daan said:
Indeed, who is it?
@NRS91
nick Steggel -
for what its worth, ive just been through a similar issue with my Ls v8, spent nearly 2 months trying to get to the bottom of why it was over fueling & fowling plugs & it turned out i had the odd bank coil pack firing in the wrong sequence, it had been like that for some time including being raced like that,
when it was started it was running quite rich but when reved would seem to clear & sounded like it was on all 8,
i would definetly be 100% sure you havent a missfire before diving into the actual fuel tables trying to resolve the over fueling-
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another questionable autotrader advert, 30k spent but paintwork done with a 1/2 empty rattle can
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17 hours ago, jediwhite said:
7/8k id say is about the right kinda price point for that, 12k is being a bit hopeful,
14 hours ago, jeremy996 said:Looks interesting, but what is the chequer-plate covering?
It's a bitsa with some quite choice bits, but it's a long way from standard and in a configuration never sold by Land Rover. If its breaks, you will be your own development engineer.
The condition of the bulkhead needs to be checked carefully. Where would you get another clutch and slave from?
theres enough people doing m57 swaps that i wouldnt let that put me off, ok the p38 bellhousing adaption is far from perfect but it is cheaper than using an adapter plate, however the main issue with the p38 bellhousing adaption is that you need to use an uprated clutch otherwise it slips, not sure how the slave cylinder can be that custom
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12 hours ago, darthdicky said:
And final question for today, should this end plate just lift off, or is there a hidden circlip or something holding it on? It all turns smoothly so I don't want to whack it too hard, but I'd like to get the grey part off to clean it up and possibly paint it. It's not just lifting off so I've soaked it in WD40, tapped with a mallet a few times but doesn't seem to be budging yet...
the blue piece is the adapter to mount the bearing between the drum & the end plate,
if you knock it down it should come out the end plate, in this configuration there is no plastic bush like on a normal 8274
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15 hours ago, andy _1 said:
Well they look ok not in a hurry to fit them.if I want top of the line headlights I buy nightforce . I think the Australian use them on there ute s. I have used nightforce for hunting , you won't get better and their scopes are top of the line. Well hey ho they are E marked. If there are any children that would like to report the seller for fake/ copyright marks , the link to the seller at the top of the thread.
nightforce are an american company that make scopes,
lightforce are an australian company that make lights, they dont make headlight upgrades unfortunatley & have been off the top of the lighting game for a while now,
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57 minutes ago, Steeee said:
if there going to be replaced after a few years due to sagging on one side like the old Brit part lift kit I fitted to my old disco then there’s no point
I want to keep the disco long term
very occasional P&P use twice a year at most a few free lanes and commuting plus once it’s a pick up a fairly frequent use moving my trials bike to off road events
for a start they wont sag due to being made from chinesium as they are basically a gas pressurised ram, if the presure leaks out then they will sag, the shafts can corrode, the bearings can wear, all stuff that requires maintenance much like any other item of this construction,
with the suggested use, i wouldnt fit air shocks, you would be better off with a set of good quality springs & shocks in my opinion
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25 minutes ago, Blanco said:
Beauty is considered to be in the eye of the beer holder ....... we just don't know which eye, where he keeps it , or what he feeds it on; clearly it is capable of a perspective outside of normal parametres.
fixed it for you 😎
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46 minutes ago, Steeee said:
16" air shocks are a big wieldy things that are difficult to mount & package on a landrover chassis vehicle, quite simply, there too big,
however a 12" or 14" at a push long airshock in a 2.5" diameter are a better option for a landrover based vehicle,
in regards to your vehicle im trying to work out what your trying to achieve by fitting them,yes they are tunable for the weight they are carrying, however they need tuning in general for any vehicle, they are not a fit & gas up & of you go system,
i have quite a bit of experience with 2" & 2.5" diameter air shocks & fitting & setting them up on "offroad" vehicles, however for a road going vehicle, there are better options out there-
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Extending a garage base
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
@FridgeFreezer what size / cost was that shed you put up?