ccomley

Sorry to wake up a very old thread - I've just been offered a set of 245/75R16s for my D2 and am wondering if the oversize caused you any problems? I note that the current stock ATs foul on the front suspension at full lock. Wondering if they'd cause me problems. NOTE this is for o/r use only, I'll put the alloys with the 255/55R18 ATs back on for regular use.

Nowhere NEAR glasgow, but a chap near here in the Chilterns has set up shop in an old farm building and does a *fab* job for about £50 per scratch. In my case he took out a gouge on the corner of my brand new Astra (why *are* "other people" allowed into carparks?) and that involved calling Vauxhall to get the "recipe" for the colour (a two-coat "pearlescent") which involved about 20 different "tints". It is quite literally as good as new, you could search all day and not know where the scratch was if I didn't tell you. Anyhoo, he can't be the only person doing it, so shop around. It may even be a franchise op, I'll see if I can dig out his details and if it looks like a franchise I'll let you know and you can see if they have one nearby.

Sounds like mine in real cold weather with no pre-heat. Normally at home in winter I use the preheater but on occasions when I've had to rush out at short notice, in temps from +2 to -5, sort of thing, wait for the glows, turn over, it takes several rotations to fire, then it grumbles a bit, doesn't want to rev, and has no pull, as you say, at least until the turbo starts to blow. Once it's warmed up it's good as gold. In the mountains at new year we had -12 indicated and no-where to attach the preheater, I waited for the glows, turned the key and... nothing. Turning over fine but no way it wants to fire. Start over, wait for the glows again, starter... more of the same. This time I feed in a hit of right foot and it eventaully splutters into live. But until it's warmed up, it won't rev over 1000 and won't pull the skin off a pudding. Once warm, again, good as gold. In summer, or when already warm, no sign of similar behaviour, so I just put it down to the lump not being fond of cold mornings. And who would blame it!

This happened to me once - (TDi300) beetling down the M5, everyone was hooting, and I realised my hazards were on. Nothing else wrong. Got off at the next exit, having failed to stop it with switches, etc. Started pulling fuses. One made the alarm soudner go nuts so I put that back and tried a different one. That seemed to do it, so we got back in and continued. After the journey, and a cup of tea, I went for a further tinker. Put back the fuse I'd pulled and... it was all normal. And has been ever since. Dealer says it's possibly a bump caused one of the sensors to trigger, and after a half-hour reset period it all goes back to normal. So FWIW, ignore it unless it recurrs.

Paul, Optimates are designed for bike and smaller batteries. (Still 12 volts but you'll see it's for batteries "up to 50AH") Land Rovers have bigger batteries! The Accumate is the device from the same company designed for bigger batteries. And I'm sure mine was less than that Optimate price. http://www.accumate.co.uk/ Yep - here - £37 http://www.thegreenreaper.co.uk/showdetails.asp?id=761

Get an Accumate, it comes with croc clips and with an optional lead which has rings to permantently mounts to your battery leads. And a quick-disconnect cable you can leave just insdid the boot or possibly even under the bumper or behind the grill where you can connect the charger unit without opening the bonnet. And the Accumate is *designed* to be left permanently connected, an ordinary battery charger will fry your battery in time.

My "facelift" D2 TD5 has no handbook. I have a PDF of the pre-facelift handbook and of course 90% of it is the same but sooner or later I know i'm going to need to look up something in the other 10%. Anyone have a post-facelift manual in PDF (or similar) format? Cheers.

The strap being grubby wouldn't stop it conducting. It sounds more like it's come unhitched at one end. But start by cleaning it so you can see what's going on. Remember of everything on the car the starter motor is by far the heaviest electrical load and needs *fat* cables both sides.

Hmm. I didn't keep the console plastics. I did keep the cupholder and, indeed, the whole of the bit it sits in. BUT - the one in my D2 sticks and I was maybe goin gto swap them... Make me a better offer!!!

YEah - got there in the end.

Last February, I was driving down the M5 and folk started to flash me! I saw my hazards were going. Pulled over and tinkered. The hazard switch was not on, nor anything else I could see. Locking and unlocking the car didn't fix it, nor did stopping and re-starting. In the end I pulled the fuse (alarm or CLocking fuse I *think* don't quiz me!! - ISTR one fuse caused the alarm siren to sound continuously so I put that back and tried another) and drove the rest of the way without it. When I got there, I put the fuse back in so I could lock the doors... and it didn't start flashing nor has it ever done so since. I read somewhere it can be caused by a motion sensor in the alarm system tripping when it shouldn't, it apparently resets itself (possibly the same "time-out" as the alarm would ahve anyway when triggered, to stop it going off all night) and, in my case, it never recurred!!

Halfords? :-) I bought an in/out thermometer, the "external" sensor was on about twelve feet of thin wire, long enough to route it around behind the dash and out through the passenger side door. Only problem is, I never found anywhere to stick the end bit where it wasn't affected by heat from the engine/exhaust/etc. So it was good when you start, but stopped being useful thereafter until you park up again. Perhaps running the cable out the back door and under the bumper or something...? GOK where they put the sensors in "factory fit" systems. Relays - I fitted a set of extra lights. They came with an un-fused relay. I wasn't too happy with taht so I popped into Halfords and picked up a near-identical relay but which had a 30amp spade fuse in the body. Initially I just wired the lamps up with the green wire taht used to go to the front fogs (when I had 'em) wired up to the "trigger" link of the relay, and a wire direct from battery to the "feed", then the lamps came on when the front fog switch was pushed (and this was already configured by LR not to work if the main lights were not on). I had planned to use the *second* relay in series with the first and tap the wire to the main beam as it's "trigger" feed so that I could have the spots on with Main, but dis-able-able by the fog light switch... never got around to it. The Halfords relay was about a fiver ISTR. At the same shelf in Halfords where you'll find the thermometer, you'll find all sorts of add-in lights and other such "decorations".

Hmm. My reply disappeared - apols if it re-appears just after I post this. I just "scrappaged" a D1 - I kept a load of bits. What are you after?

I just "scrappaged" mine - but I kept a bunch of bits. What are you after?