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Posts posted by carlosbeldia
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I mean performance at high temps. However you just clarify me this... I'll go for OEM or genuine...
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Dont know if there is a temperature issue about these pads?
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Mine do same noise when i shut it down, no matter if 5 degrees or 40..... I simply have learned to live with it.... This noise came aorund 1.5 years and 30.ooo kms ago.... I have tried everything and nothing works....
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Hi there. Can you please tell me what difference make Kevlar in brake pads? does it worth? since there is almost a 50% difference in price..... my car is an everyday car with often heavy duty off road courses....
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It's now done. Besides the loom wiring issue, the car was in trouble with CKP sensor cable making earth with engine ancilliary. Thanks a lot for your helpful comments, Woody. Withouth them, my wiring kit most likely would be open right now...
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Jejjeje, thanks a lot Woody
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Thanks a lot Woody, I'll do what you say. There isn't nccesary to solder different colour cables? It seems that in the blue cap all cables are conected between them...
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Hi there. Today my car let me in my legs. After 6 hours trying to find the failure (it kept blowing the main relay fuse), we found there is a brown and green cable coming from main relay to the main relay fuse, and from there to a little rectangular blue boxattached to black loom of the ECU. This cable is fried by overheating, clearly a short circuit, so tomorrow we are going to open the wiring install to track the short circuit and have the car on the road again.
However, it came to my mind..... what the hell can I do if this happens to me in the middle of nowhere? how can I get rid of this problem? what if this relay fails in the dessert? I'm supposed to make a new home there? what kind of emergency procedure or bypass can I do in case of this? I'm really concerned on this....
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Mine made 40.000 kms with really hard noising.... it won't fail for the wedding, don't worry...
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What of these two options cause less stress on road? off road I suppose it's better to take everything in the car, the tow is a very "death weight" option, right? During towing do the transmision takes a lot of work, more than carrying?
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I have a K&N for my TD5..... really a lot of money savings.... I have to change paper filter around every 3.000 kms due to really dusty conditions, and here a TD5 Copper filter costs around 10 poumds. My K&N filter costed me 35 pounds, and the cleaning and oil kit around 13 pounds.... that's the price for almost 5 paper filter.... that's 15.000 kms, too much for an unemployed TD5 owner, so my K&N worth.... at least in my case. I can't understand the graph... what is filtration efficiency.....
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What modes are done in waterproofed?
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If I have this opportunity to buy a Camel, i'd do it with closed eyes, doesn't matter how much it will cost....... but it's me, in Colombia, maybe here it worth...
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Thanks a lot Tony, I can see now why I didn't find info before..... we say VGT in Colombia....
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I have to have one of these..... availability? need to remap? I guess there is no problem to install here in Colombia, with our sulphured diesel (no problems at all with standar GT20 till now...... how much tis the final price?
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Somebody???
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Is there any chance I can change mi GT20 for another one? maybe a TGV? my turbo has now some tolerance, so soon I'll have to update it.... and looking for some extra low band torque (having MSB ECU, so remap is not an option, and I'm in Colombia, so Chipping is a little difficult). I don't want trouble, only something to clean change....
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Just asking if somebdy kknow any case on this. Recently, in Argentina's forum a friend brought the case of a D3 selling with only 86.0000 km in the odometer, but when scanned, it showed 205.000.....
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Here in Colombia buying a steering pump costs as much as buying a mint condition Series, so I had to change drop arm and seals in order to stop the leaking. It didn't stop completly, but a year and a half later, I have consumed about 100 cc of the steering fluid pint I bought....
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Maybe useful: I had this same leaking problem. There is a metal clip on the side that goes to the block. That piece goes loose with the years. i just take a pair of pliers and adjuste it, no leaking since then.....
If buying a new, go to www.brit-car.co.uk, they had existences that time, kind of 3 months ago
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Thanks a lot Ander, I'll have this in mind when buying my spare ECU. I have planned to do a trip all around South America and want to take an addtional ECU "just in case", didn't know about this problems....
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Here in Colombia sells an electric device wich have 2 or 3 points (I don't remember) connected to the body to avoid corrosion. Apparently, this works fine in any car is installed, but I don't know if it can be used in our chassis,,,,, somebody has used something like this?
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Thanks to everyone for all the help. It seems that my car doesn't have the white box or the additional ground in the engine bay. Problem was solved last night,..... it only was to clean up the start engine terminal and everything seems really ok right now.... let you know if anything change.-...
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It's better at old to be in High all the time, response is improved in both low and high.....
Traction Control Problem on D2
in Discovery Forum
Posted
Hi. I had this very same problem in my Defender TC.... the pump suddenly started to shut (any tire could be the one in my case).... It was due to a wire in short with another of the bunch. It was the green and yellow and a black one coming from the pump loom. Take a look.....
Nanocom didn't reported anything wrong, because there is no failure, I suppose this wire activate the valve. After one week with this problem, pump finally die..... so go for a look. I discover the short little time after pump death.