carlosbeldia

Good day. A friend of mine have an armored Disco 3 that have a broken auto gearbox. Checking the MIcrocat, there are no repair kit available, somebody knows if there is any option for this?

There were big issues here in my city with some bearings made by Timken in Brasil due to the high salt present in our enviroment, they rust really fast.

I used Timken for years, but they don't last.... had bearing failure with less than 20.000 km 3 times and then went to NTN, no more problems. Maybe is the production place, the Timken for the Defender that comes to Colombia are produced in India, the ones that I took from the car were made in Australia... I'm trying to find the FAG version but haven't been lucky...

I found a medium load kit from Terrafirma with rear progressive springs, anyone have experience with this?

Good day. A friend of mine is taking back to normal specs a Defender 90 NAS. Right now he have a heavy duty Old Man Emu +2" setup. He wants to go to normal duty springs but wants them to be progressive, as the TD5 ones. The thing is he also need them to be +2" due to slightly big tires (285/75). What brand that come in progressive do you recommend? Another option he have is to build some spring suplemments to add 2" to the standard setup, but he really prefers not to do this.

jajajaja, bloody rain! ho much do you think I should pay for that backplate?

Thanks a lot. Do you think it's possible to buy that backplate to be sent here? SOA: it's too difficult to make a plan of this backplate? don't you sell me the 300 one?

Good day. A friend is trying to adapt a 300 engine in an ex-V8 auto. However, he can't find a 300 auto bellhousing (really not a common combination here in Colombia), but only have found a 200 auto bellhousing. Does it worth for the 300 or he have to keep looking? also, we can build it here, but we need some basic plans in order to make a correct piece. Is it possible to find those plans? thanks.

Here in Colombia you can buy a Toyota starter and simply change the conection pinnion. It costs like 1/3 of the Land Rover one.....

No, mine is not leaking a drop since the inferior seal (the one that is made in teflon) was replaced for a steel washer. The complete history is that the bar that comes in the front of the car, under the bumper, had a really bad hit during a NAS rescue with the terrain and was bended until the steering drop arm, forcing the box with any turn... Only 2 days before this, the box was completly resealed with an OEM kit that came from Paddocks. It's not the first Defender box in here that have had to take this kind of "inconvinience", all of them have came out with no problems during years.... c'mon, these are Land Rover steering boxes, not Toyota ones... seriously. This Toyota had a little problem with water in the steering system and this was the result: New steering box... in that "rally" (it's our heaviest route here in Colombia, 1400 km of only mud and water), the Defender were called heroes, believe it or not, we were the saviors of the Toyotas al the time... they were failing with axle breaks, diff explosions, brake "dissapearance" and all kind of electric and electronic gizmos... this was so known in all the country, that no Toyota person here dares now to say nothing about Land Rover reliability... this was the spot were that Toyota lose his box. It's worth to know that the 300 in this photo was the best of the bunch... We also learn the worst thing to have in such a route is a big powerful engine and lockers.... it's like having an anchor, jejeje... the only Defender that was in as many troubles as the Toyotas was the NAS...

We lost all of it right here. We were in the middle of nowhere, so have to kept going.... The next day the thing got worse... we got stucked and force the steering box a little (26 hours in the same spot, no rescue cars or tractors to help us out): They were really looooong 100 miles, most of them in deep mud... maybe that's why the pump didn't break, I don't know...

On july during a "rally" my car broke the inferior seal. We had no option but to drive it. As it's a TD5, we couldn't take out the belt, so had to drive it during 100 miles without a single drop of hydraulic. Nothing happened. We exchanged the inferior seal for a washer and have been perfect since. My mechanic (was my copilot) told me there is no problem at all with running them that way. It's supposed the pump always have a small security quantity blocked by an internal valve that goes on as soon as the pressure drops. I don't know if this is true but the pump is perfect....

Good day. A friend bought a Disco 2 EU2 with a heavily damaged engine. He brought a good engine from Panama and made an hybrid engine. Everything looks OK but the car doesn't start, only send 2 pulses to the injectors and that's it, never goes fire. The ECU was straight installed, without learning code procedure, so I suppose it's immobilised, I'm I wrong? They have tried to execute the learn code procedure with Autologic and Idiag scanners without results. I have the Nanocom here in my city, but don't want to send it to Bogota. Do you know if it's possible for him to send me the immobiliser unit toghether with the ECU and I execute the procedure uising my car (Defender)? thanks for your comments.

No, Santana Syncro is different from this. It looks very similar to LT85, but is not. Do you know about any military specs gearbox for Series?

It only have 4 speed

This is a S2A. As you can see, it has all three levers as any series, the transfer is the same, but the gearbox is different. It came as original item in the car...

I've just came from a short but intensive rally (1.000 km of mud and water). All diesel vehicles came out in good conditions, everyone had attached a gasoline car, UTV or ATV in the back. Mine was an almost new Defender 90 NAS with the 4.0 V8. All except one of the Toyotas in our team were gasoline... guess which car was the best among them? it was the only one that didn't need to be rescued all the time. At least in most of the terrains you find here in Colombia, a diesel is by far the best option. It's not only a reliability or strenght dilemma... problem with gasoline are all those horsepower not matching well with a too high torque band. In all the road, we could see how those 250+ HP cars were stucked all the time no matter how good was the pilot where we went in 4 Low at really low speed. Even the NAS with it's "low" output (190 HP) had to be towed lots of time, despiting it's rear locker (was the only Land Rover with locker. All the Toyotas and one Jeep had lockers)...... all this not mentioning about all the time they spent loading fuel.... not, just let me be with my diesel car (have a Series petrol 2286, but it works closer to an old diesel than to a modern gasoline).

Los Toyo se enterraban una y otra vez... Barro hasta el tuétano: Un Toyotero bravo porque su unica opción era un Land Rover para salir de ahí (es en serio): UTV y ATV devolviéndose porque estaba muy duro: Mi primera enterrada (finalmente me sacó un tractor), por cortesía del dueño del NAS, que frenó en lo peor del barrizal: El aceite rojo es de la caja de dirección.... todo producto de un impacto que recibió el carro en la defensa de la dirección y afectó un poco el amortiguador. La empanzada fue cruel, del diferencial delantero y trasero, el barro estaba en todas partes: la HCPU siempre logro salir sola y sin winch, fue el mejor carro de la competencia, totalmente de serie con su 300: Al tratar de rescatarme, el 110 quedó peor que nosotros, también lo sacó el tractor: Muchas UTV fueron sacadas con tractor también: En la mitad de la nada tratando de acordarme del voltaje del acelerador según me había dicho Matías, jajaja: La bomba totalmente tapada de sucio (diesel venezolano): Otro Toyota emproblemado que rescatamos: NUestro equipo: Varada número 1 millón: El equipo quería darme de baja: De noche enterrados en el km 11: Lo intentamos todo: El barro nos fue tragando así que nos fuimos a dormir: Nos despertamos entre caimanes y jaguares, no muy alentador: Nos rescataron y salimos del infierno halando al NAS, que se iba recalentando como buen V8 que es: Desvarando a un Rubicon (por llanta): El Rubicon rompió los 4 amortiguadores, dañó los dos resortes traseros y se comió todas las pastillas de freno traseras, pero es que el piloto era muy malo, solo acelerador..... El remiendo que le hice al chasis salió bastante mal librado:

O, perfect, thanks a lot

It came that way. We bought 2 units and both came that way. There is a thread in the hole and I can see in Google some of these units came originally with an Allen bolt in that space..

Good day, I'm trying to start my car after a bulkhead swap but the car have no current at all, there is no voltage at all in none of the positive points. I have connected everything except the alarm ECU's, is there any chance that's the reason for this no-electricity problem? My car don't have an active alarm or immobiliser, both were disabled long time ago, but there are still the black and green boxes connected.

I'll write to Foley, thanks a lot.

This is the new car of a friend here in Colombia, but after bought it (it was auctioned) we noticed it have a longer wheelbase than a normal 130..... how possible this is a factory made (special vehicles) stretch? if don't, who do you think could made this mod? it was brought from UK and came here that way. VIN says it's a 130.... I have tried to find a 147 or 150 that seems similar but haven't found it...

Does anybody have them in their 110? somebody in 235/85? have pictures? what about performance in mud? I'm thinking on buying a set otf these due to really low price here, what do you think on them?

sorry, my mistake, not a percentage, 23 hp as max....