carlosbeldia

Here in Colombia a man have a really big tow trailer acoppled throug PTO. He needs the trailer to have some traction in specifics parts of the terrain. It's installed in a Series, not a Defender, however it proves that with time and effort you can have wathever you want. All parts were made custom for this. Series PTO was supposed to take a top of 20% of the available torque.....

It's perfect Mike, thanks a lot.

Yes, it's a TD5 2001, it goes to the rear over the gearbox, I can't go under the car right now because it's too hot, I'm going to check during nitgh

I've been able to disconnect all the connectors except this wire loom, I can't find any connector for this, so wondering if all wires have to be pull to the inside of the car or toward the engine bay. Is there a connector for this loom? where is it located? thanks.

Thanks a lot, I'm going with HD versions, teewty exposed what the problem is and this was a good solution for him. Holes..... only in the last 2 km to my work there are around 20 of them... but really big ones...

I have changed my flanges lots of time the last two years, i suppose due to a combination of slow stop and go traffic, heavy off road with big kg number in the cargo area and sudden acceleration / desacceleration cycles (due to big traffic jams and cars trying to go into my lane). however, everytime the axle leaves in perfect shape and the flange completly screwed. We only have here britpart and Bearmach, both of them are really weak, so i was wondering if maybe this is an improvement, they cost the same the genuine ones.... bad idea then?

Are they stronger than Genuine ones? can they be used with normal halfshafts or they have to be matched with HD halfshafts? it's for use in heavy off road / Challenge, don't have enough money for the HD versions (with freight they are around 600 pounds).....

DOn't know if maybe yours, but mine have a little problem Nanocom have helped to detect. MY batt is big enough and is perefectly charged (12.7) every morning. When crancking, it goes down to around 12.3, but the ECU detects 10.5... it doesn't matter how hard you try, engine will not fire until I touch throttle (it makes the voltage go to 12.3 inmediately).... mine is a EU2 and seems another two have similar problem here....

I had same problem with my car and did 2 things I found in Argentina's forum: took out the air bleed valve (in fuel filter housing) and put a hose between air bleed lead in the fuel pump and the fuel.... never have made another sound and never have failed again in the morning...

LR have still not made a decistion about where will be the new production plant. Options are India and Brazil..... I work in a OEM supplier and my company is working around this project in Brazil...

It sounds like fuel pump....

what about the gauze in the fuel line going from the filter to the tank? my TD5 was having problems with starting and only takes this part out and now it goes first start in the morning or whenever I want.

This was a really good comparative, but kind of old: http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/showthread.php?t=23570

BFG are good in off road, but not in the road. They are kind of scary when tarmac is wet an have some potholes. I have some experience with (all in 265/75 R16): Hankook Dynamic AT: awful tire, really small when compare to others, weak walls, as grippy as SAG's Michellin AT2: car like grip in the road, perfect in wet, very good in off road (off course is not an MT) Pirelli Scorpio AT (don't confuse with ATR): good in dry and wet pavement, good in off road None of these 3 were noisy (Michellin's were specially silent), and all of them cope all the weight with no problem (used to go with 1800 kg in the back of the 110 to the farm every week). Had to drive a 90 armored (level 3+) Defender with BFG's and really don't like them, off course are good tires, but I think BFG have stay in time while others keeps evolving.. I don't know how easy is for you to get a pair of Firestone Destination, they are by far the best AT working tire I have drive, both on and off road... let you some comparison where Grabber and Continental are the best: http://www.leisurewheels.co.za/blogs/15-at-tyres-tested/

Thanks a lot Pat, that give me some peace of mind. How about pot holes and off road courses? do you have normal or +2 version?

Thanks Peter, I'm going to use them with Genuine LR HD springs also. For a 2014 expedition we are putting some helpers to.

Right now I have normal Britpart shock absorbers, they lasted exact 28 days.... off course I do a lot of heavy loaded off road and the streets in my city are like any Afganistan's one after a bombing. However, they were really weak as I can see. However, I have heard some good things about Cellular from people that actually have installed them in their cars. Only bad reviews have come from people telling "Britpart is carp, so they have to be carp". Anybody with bad experience with those?

After months planning the buy of my Koni shock absorbers, sadly last week Paddock informed me they can´t be sent by courier due to high pressure. The only shock they can send overseas is supposedly to be Cellular Dynamics. In Aulro forum they inform there is no problem to send the Konis by other suppliers. Bad luck, too late, so I have to deal with these Cellular Dynamic at least for next 6 months. Are they good? how resistant? what about weight control? any experience will be welcome. By the way, I'm going to install these with original HD springs.

Thanks a lot Diff, I'm going to put them and see what happens. I also can buy 2 genuine helper springs for little money (30 pounds). thinking on going to an expedition next year with heavy equipment and gear in the car (around 800 kg including people and dogs), it's a good idea to put them? is there only one version of helpers or are they rated as springs?

I know they are for driver side, but only have these, so have to put both of them. To get an image, here a Britpart spring goes for around 45 pounds, an original one goes for around 250 pounds. I bought these 2 for 90 pounds, it's like stealing candies from a kid, jejejeje.... my options were 3 different references of Britpart or this one.... I chose the cheap Genuine. By Boge I mean a shock absorber branded Boge, not the leveller. My car is an station wagon but came with HD suspension because it was supposed to be armored on level 4 under UN standars, or something like that, so I believe it's already harsh and I'm used to it. One friend have a NAS with OME suspension and it feels a little more soft, but not big difference. I usually carries around 100 kg in equipment (tools, accesories, etc) in my car, do you think this can compensate the harder spring rate? So it's OK using these springs with standar travel shock absorbers? thanks.

I have bought these springs (LR Genuine). They are rated as 330lbs, so maybe a harsh ride, but they were really cheap (same amount than Britpart) and at least one day of the week I go to my farm heavily loaded, so I think it´s going to be fine. However, I noticed they are 3 cm - 6 cm longer than others genuine LR springs, does it mean I have to change shock absorbers? I have normal Boge shock absorbers in the rear and Koni (coming from UK next week, only have money for front pair, rear pair have to wait for next month) in the front. Thanks a lot for your help. Also I appreciate if somebody have this spring in the rear could tell me how bad are they in the road without weight. 110 Driver’s Rear NRC 6389 Red Stripe 407.00mm

Somebody? anybody?......

I want to fix a broken TD5 10P engine, but the head I have as spare is a 15P, can I use it? if so, what do I have to have in account?

Coming back to the piece..... somebody is telling that's a part from a 1948 windscreen system, is that OK?

jajaja, I'm so stupid, was thinking on capacitors that are used in sound systems...