ltwt1981

Will do a better version when time permits, I only have the summaries not the cards etc.

Sorry it went in as a spreadsheet but shows up as above.

Here are the results Team Drivers Names Score Ind Position Team 1 T1 Darren Holmes ARC -482 40 T2 Nick Woodage ARC 798 35 Team 2 T3 Mathrew Eaves ARC 1536 29 T4 Marcus Hamlyn ARC 1894 18 Team 3 T5 Neil Thomlinson ARC 647 37 T6 John Jackson ARC 852 33 Team 4 T7 Roy Friend ARC 1406 31 T8 Richard Salter ARC 1883 19 Team 5 T9 Mark Ambler ARC 1850 20 T10 Matt Hewitt ARC 1731 22 Team 6 T11 James Trembath 1674 24 T12 Mike Dunlop 2241 14 Team 7 T13 Dave Antill 2334 11 T14 Graham Antill 2442 10 Team 8 T15 John Beagley 1625 26 T16 Bob Seaman 1691 23 Team 9 T17 Marc McFarlane 1672 25 T18 Ash Parsons 2117 15 Team 10 T19 Will Warne 1765 21 T20 Simon White 1545 28 Team 11 T21 Roger Pardy 3683 4 T22 Paul Rogers 2815 7 Team 12 T23 Mark Jeffrey 655 36 T24 Colin Humphries 1577 27 Team 13 T25 Andy Smith 1313 32 T26 Paul Hooper 1919 17 Team 14 T27 John Piper 2615 8 T28 Gary Andrews 3232 6 Team 15 T29 Adrain Turner 3375 5 T30 Richard Nicolson 5772 2 Team 16 T31 Paul Wightman 5089 3 T32 Nick Watts 5796 1 Team 17 T33 Jim Marsden 2590 9 T34 Lee Longhurst 2020 16 Team 18 T35 Tony Cordell 1461 30 T36 Nick Walker 2263 13 Team 19 T37 Pete Wlkins 830 34 T38 Bryn Hemmings 2323 12 Team 20 0 38 0 38 Hope this is OK NigeT

I'll leave it for you to sort, if its at home I can take it, if not I assume someone else has it. What is it anyway? NigeT

You have a PM

Yes, I'm in Churt and going Sat and Sun, you need to get it to me today if you can. NigeT

First Class Nige, I like it, some thought before the event and not on the day. Now about that rain forest...

Whats it for, I can buy bits to make this but not high tensile. Any fixings specialist can do it with threaded rod and a stud coupling. Where are you I may know of somewhere locally.

Nige I have a DVD RW on a USB connection. If you want to use it you are welcome.

Thanks Jon as I thought.

On a 110 master cylinder I assume that the larger outlet is the front brakes and the smaller the rears. They are not in the same position on this to the series version. Series fronts at bulkhead rears to front of master cylinder, on the 110 one it looks to be the other way. Anyone know?

Just fits, cut back in the wing and very tight to the inside, but does fit. Fouls the bonnet by about 1/4 inch I reckon, just a slight massage required. Many thanks Nige, I'll settle when I see you. Brakes are now superb, this makes all the difference.

Thanks Nige I may pop down for a look, are you at home this weekend ?

Thanks Tonk, but which one STC2878 or NRC4772 both to 1990 from what I can gather. Also what is the diameter of the unit.

In what year did the 110 servo go from smaller to larger? Any chance of part numbers and does anyone know what else it may be fitted to? Any Rover vehicles. I'd like to know for my series disc brake conversion, to upp the servo power. I assume I need the pedal box as well. Any other thoughts or options please post.

Many thanks

Can anyone give me bolt size for a series 3 stub axle to the hub. 6 off are they 5/16th or what?

Looks good, any other photos or comments.

Tonk I don't have them, but you definitely need a lathe and with templates you can do the rest fairly comfortably. I reckon with the gear to hand I could probably do it in a weekend now.

First many thanks to Tonk and Jon White for advice and their threads on this. Really just a brief description of how mine went. You will need a lathe, grinder, taps and dies, pillar drill (better still a mill) and some patience. I started with a stub axle and hub in the workshop together with disco/RR rear callipers and discs (not LR). You have to make the calliper bracket, I used 12mm steel but I think 10mm would be better, I just happened to have some 12mm. I formed the bracket shape using the hub to mark a circle and a drum brake back plate for the inner circle hole. This means it will fit on the stub axle correctly. I then looked at the caliper and drew up where I thought it should go. Made it all in card first including a mock disc of exact diameter. The disc I used has the centre machined out and the hub requires some machining as well to fit. Mine is like the TIC brakes, see their web site for pics. The disc is fitted to the back of the hub with five bolts tapped into the hub. I used the centre of abrake drum machined to fit into the rear recess of the disc to centre the holes exactly. This disc can be fitted on the front of the hub and one hole central between the studs drilled through both. Move it round one drill the next hole through the first in the disc and so on. With five holes drilled turn over and drill all five back through the hub and disc. You now have a template to drill the brake disc, place it in the rear recess and drill with a pillar drill all five holes. If you machined right in the first place you have them in the right place tap the hub, drill out the disc holes and bolt up with loktite or similar. Mock it up on the bench and offer up the caliper and mark the holes. I made the caliper bracket in aluminium first so I now have a template for this as well. After this its all bolt together and mod brake lines to suit. You need a 6mm spacer on the front of the hub for the wheel to clear the caloper, I machined out a brake drum centre as its complete with all the holes you need. With my 12mm calliper plate I found I needed lnger bolts to the axle and to mill sme recesses as the bolts fouled on the hub, I think 10mm may clear or at least not require th milling. I thought about countersunk bolts but I'm not sure, any comments. Or anyone got any in imperial to fit, needs 12. I cut the caliper bracket roughly with a jig saw first, ground and filed to shape. Stich drilled and filed the centre hole. All seems to work well other than comments on my other thread re pedal a bit firmer. Will post pics when I do some any questions please ask.

Thanks Jon, I will see what I can do then. It never really ends does it. Seem to be able to lock the fronts fairly easily at present, I'll see how it goes.

Got the front disc brakes on and working. Seems to need a firmer push on the pedal than before, but not bedded in yet. Pedal is very hard, very little movement so no air. Only had a perfunctory test so not yet definitive, any thoughts Tonk, Jon White? Will push on with rears soon and check servo operation this weekend. Will see you at MWWCE and if not happy by then get a second opinion. The TIC instructions of which I have a copy say that for theirs more pedal pressure may be needed, can't see why.

HFH will be along in a short while.

That is all. Nothing to go wrong and very basic.

Got my history from the ex military land rover association, they have a web site.