Frax

Well when I rebuilt my 1995 300tdi about 1 year ago I did not have a timing locking tool for the flywheel so just used the marks when I replaced the timing belt and she fired up and has ran OK ever since but not quite to its old standard and I have often wondered why. So at long last I bought a timing kit with the pin for the flywheel so today I thought I would just give it a quick check, drove into my garage and went underneath with my new locking tool and could not believe that it was stopped in the right place – well within a 1/8” so just needed a slight turn of the engine and the pin popped in. Next removed the cover for the fuel pump and went to fit the 9.5mm locking pin. It would not go in, had a look at the manual and the hole looks like it sits slightly anticlockwise from the top left timing cover bolt. At about the 10 o’clock position. This picture is taken on a mirror - hope you get an idea of what I an meaning. This one is with the camera pointing at the pump pulley. You can see the step through the hole I was talking about. This is where it is now. My one was found sitting at about 1 o’clock which is a lot further out than the slots in the bolt will let it travel. I did move the pulley anticlockwise a bit to see if the pin would locate as I could see a slight edge through the hole & the pin did go in slightly further. Remembering back I think the pin went in quite a bit and was a good fit – where it is now it is not. I did remove the flywheel lock and then tried to start her up, but no go, somehow I was not surprised. Questions for you. Can anyone confirm the position of the fuel pump locking hole, I could turn the engine and check this if need be. Will I now have to remove the timing cover to check all the timing marks. If it was so far out why has it run for over a year with no great problems. Any advice welcome. I dare say I could get it back to where I found it and running again but I would rather be sure its right.

Well I am back under there again (Started another post)so will do it up as tight as F and see how that goes.

Yes, New nut and bolt. Refitted the bolt with another new nylock nut today. before I fitted it I drilled a small hole through the end of the bolt. Fitted the bolt & nut and nipped up but did not tighten down hard as I presume it need to move as the body rolls. I then fitted a split pin through the hole in the end of the bolt so it should not come off again.

I would also say UJ's, it does not take much ware to cause vibration. I would be very surprised is it was your box. If your wheels and tires are the same as they always have been I can not see it being that unless they have thrown a balance weight from one of the wheels. You could get another garage to balance the wheels just to rule that out. Could be wheel bearing also.

I don't know why your one has lines, looks like the same one as I have and I do not have any lines. The one pointing back does its job but I have found that the weather has a big part to play on the quality of the image. It can show you the camera image and you still get the mirror effect on top. It is not a problem as you can just shut the camera off if required.

Disaster today - headed of this morning down my dirt track road I came to a corner and felt like I had slid. It was about 6 deg so no ice today. Drove on still on the track and steering was woolly to say the least so when I got to the main road I stopped and had a look underneath and found that the bolt that hold the panhard rod at the axle end. Drove very slowly back home. The bolt has only been in for about two months and was tight - it was fitted with a nylock nut so find it strange. The wife found the bolt but no nut, will be fitted this time with another nylock nut and locking washer and some thread lock. A couple of night back I was offroading on some rough ground but still don't know or why this would come loose.

I would think that is a head off job which is not to bad to do really.

My one was upside down so used the lines in the garage door to line it up. don't know why they do not mark the top.

Glad you got it done, it will just be a waiting game now for the postman

My one also has the switch, time will tell but may also change my one yet but at the moment I just use the side mirrors as that is what I am used to.

Sorry for the slow response, been out all day, I ran the cable up the mirror and the removed the passenger side sun visor and the two plastic rivet things above the passenger door and pulled the headlining down slightly and stuck the cable up behind it..the cable then runs along the passenger side inside roof gutter. On the 90 that takes the cable to about 1 foot from the back - this was not quite long enough and as the extension cable supplied was 5m I did not want to use that. Had a hunt about and found some audio cable with the same plugs & it was two core, used that as it was just the right length and it seams to work fine ---- so if you have an old stereo or audio cables laying about Ralf they will work and you never know you may have the plug you need. All my power comes from the back as mentioned before so I did not need to remove the dash. Where I run the supply and earth down the sides of the back door I used binder plastic like these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Rigid-Edge-trim-Binder-Bar-edging-white-black-blue-red-yellow-uPVC-/261141008995?pt=UK_BOI_Medical_Lab_Equipment_Lab_Supplies_ET&var=&hash=item3ccd379263 they work a treat and clamp the wire or wires to the internal door frame edge and also cost buttons. Camera is like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LED-CAR-REAR-VIEW-PARKING-REVERSING-CAMERA-154-WIDE-ANGLE-kL26-/281027778434?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item416e8f9782 but does not have the LED;s been in my garage for over 5 years, it came with a car stereo. This one looks better but same body style.

Did think it may be on the high side but it still has good cover of the road, I will let it stay where it is for a while but if I find it needs to be lowered a bit I will be able to angle it. The one I have has two collars just behind the lens, the collars are cut at about 30 deg so it will tilt if need be. It is well out of harms way up where it is so should not get damaged.

No problem, Happy to help.

Hi and welcome. There is load of advice on here and most of it is good, a lot of people change things on their Land Rovers because they want to not because they have to. What you want to do is entirely up to you and you bank balance, the options are endless. If you are using it to tow boats I would set aside some cash to have the chassis waxed as salt will kill it quickly. Have fun on here and don't buy parts from Britpart they do not last. BF Goodrich are great tires that hold the road and last. All terrain ones will get you through the snow and also have good road handling. As for size - the bigger you go the worse the gearing will get for towing.

Well here ye go. I have not fitted my new back door yet so HiLift is still there. Its 8am and a dull day. The first picture is of the cameras. Next the bullet cam pointing straight back. There is a slight glare from the mirror effect when I took the picture. This shows more of the jack top, but you do see the NAS bumper and when the jack is gone you should see my trailer hitch. I now have a switchable screen, when I select reverse the one pointing down comes on. All I had to do was switch the AV plugs - easy fix.

Western if you have not gone out to make a start on your second camera this may help a bit. There is a switched live at the back drivers side, its a green wire which feeds the rear wiper and if you want to fit a relay there is also a permanent live which is purple. I did not fit a relay as it only draws a small amount of current. Will take some pictures soon - just on my way out to try and fix my reversing camera feed switching.

Will have to try that and see what happens, what camera did you buy for your second one ?

Will do but have to wait for daylight as my second camera is not IR, Wish the one fitted to the reversing light would switch on automatically when reverse was selected but besides that its all good.

Well got it all fitted today, bullet camera point straight back and my other one points straight down at the tow bar. So far I am very impressed with the set up. A mod well worth doing. Thanks to all for the info.

Thanks for that, I may have a spare mirror in the garage, lots of little bits laying about. the wife calls it junk but we all know it can be treasure when you need it.

Hi All Well could not let you boys have all the fun so bought one as well, same screen as Western but with a CCD camera and as a bonus I already had one of the other bullet camera's which has been sitting in my garage for years so now have a use for that as well. Have you boys flush mounted these ? Also on for you Western - did you butcher your old mirror to make the new mount for the screen so you could fit the plate. Will have a go at getting it set up this weekend. Did you solve the problem with the back IR staying on ? I will be able to flush mount the CCD as well as have no spare wheel, I had a hi lift jack mounted to the back door but that will be gone soon as just bought a new door so the back end will be flush.

Thank you for that, it is a bit clearer now.

I did this a while back TD5 into 300tdi, had the cut the mounting bracket of and fit threaded rivets to hold the 300tdi motor in place. The bracket on the inside middle was also cut at the bottom to let the wiper tube run true alone to both wheel boxes, the top of the bracket was left that hold the dash. As for the oval hole - I turned some nylon bushes with a lip to the outside size of the oval and then filed two flats and drilled for the 300tdi wheel box spindles. Did have to cut some plastic on the dash to get it to fit back in place but not that much. Been like that for over a year and had no problems except the grub screw on the spindles coming loose. Fitted them with grease instead of lock tight.

Good to know - I will go and order a set of 4. Its a long story but when I rebuilt my Defender 300tdi I fitted the front axle from a 90 as I had just fitted a full set of bearings and seals to it. Still have the 300tdi axle which I could overhall and fit at some point. Thank you for all the info.

Thanks Western - Is it 10 or 24 at the drive flange ? I am now confused - easy I know Retroanoconda, Are you saying all drive flanges on 90's are 24 spline then as it is the drive flange I am going to change.