Frax

What do you think the will a Bearmach 88 deg do the job

Well all things got old and start to fail a bit I suppose

I did fit a rad muff this morning but it made no difference, mind you it is not that good of a fit due to my Warn winch control box already blocking part of the radiator. It may as you say just require a new 88 degC thermostate.

Hi I would like a bit more heat in my cab but my engine temp never gets hot. Did a 20 mile run today and gauge just got onto the low temp line just above the bottom stop. I was thinking on changing the thermostate as I think my one is the origonal and just wondered what setting I should go for as I see there are a few options. I have seen 88 degC which I think is standard and an 82 degC and even a 77 deg C.

Thanks for that, got a set for £9.45 delivered Think the ones I have are Bosch and they have just gone hard.

Does Nige sell these or do I do a hunt for Trico blades

Hi what is the best wiper blades for a Defender, I am not sure what ones I have fitted but they only seam to clear the window on the back stroke and the rubber seams a bit hard, I have seen lots for sale with single blade to three blade types. Just wondered what you boys would recommend

Never used them but would like to think they would stand up to that.

I would say the same, its only worth what someone will pay for it. Good time of year to sell though so should get a good price. Nice job by the way.

1 pipe on the bottom to feed and one on the top to return should work but you will need to block the other hole on the top and make sure it hold pressure.

They look the same but they are not, the Mach 5 is a lot stronger with complete pipe loops, the Challenger pipes are cut in half so the back is open. That is why they never show you the back of the wheel.

I fixed that on my one by removing the headliner and gluing on some foil backed camping mats also fitted 25mm kingspan in the side panels. Cuts down damp & noise and also helps to keep the cab hot.

If the dowel broke when hitting it with a hammer I would say it would had traveled a fair bit and wold think it would have missed the head all togeather. They are hard and sprung steel so spring a long way. I would be very surprised if it has went in the head unless it split while you was fitting the head.

Remove the cover on the air filter and give it a small squirt of easy start and see if it tries to run or at least fire, only a small squirt. I hate the stuff but it will tell you if its willing to run. If it does kick over then it has to be a fuel fault or timing. Dont use a lot of easy start as it is not good for the engine and only a small amount is required. The stuff gives me a headache.

Well job done and it was not that bad Started like this with leak and wind noise Now like this and no wind noise and will wait and see if it still leaks [url=http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/frax29/media/2015-01-05095918_zpsbfc9c45d.jpg.html][/url Looks out at the bottom but its not, just the angle of the pic

I will let you know how I get on tomorrow

A well she going to get it in the morning - hope she can take it

Hi all looking for some help - sugestions. I totally rebuilt my Defender just over 3 years ago and my driver’s door has never closed and sealed as it should. It fits perfectly well all along and down the handle side and from top to bottom hinge and all lines up perfect. From top hinge or just above the curve it starts to kick out all the way up to the top of the window frame. It does touch the door seal but it sits proud of the window frame by about 10mm and is not hard on the seal. I did try to re-shim the top hinge to see if that would work but it never made much difference. When I built it I fitted new door skins don’t know if that made any odds. Looks like the door is twisted and did think of just winding the window down and trying some brute force. What do you think?

If timing is set OK, good compression and valves are set OK and fuel at injectors the only other thing I can think of is poor injectors or spray pattern. I would however double check the timing - turn it over a few times and recheck timing. You only need to be a tooth out. I alway check and double check timing.

Yes - exhaust and inlet

Are the valves set up as they should be ?

This may help you, I used it when I converted my 300tdi to a TD5 bulkhead. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38064 You can use and stud as an earth for the bulkhead, I am sure I used quite a few but the main one is just under the bonnet lip in the middle or there abouts. Also used one down by the loom hole which I used to earth the bell housing to the bulkhead just for good measure.

The old ones did have better steel and will outlast most of the newer ones. The steel was British back then and not some Inferior imported Chinese muck – sorry not meant to offend any newer Defender drivers.

Sad to say but I fitted some a couple of years ago and they only lasted about 3 months or about 200 miles. I was running 35" at the time with a 2" lift. I would order some new ones now and they may arrive in time. Sorry bud

There are good and bad points, the stainless will not rust but it does cause corrosion around the nut/bolt unless it is insulated from the other parts. I did use them on my rebuild and put them in well greased and have no problems as yet after 3 years.