Frax

Well a bit slow but I have just got home, Griffin exhaust pics for ye. Fitted this morning. http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/frax29/media/Nokia028_zpsb5fc9985.jpg.html'> http://s1040.photobucket.com/user/frax29/media/Nokia029_zps4192e254.jpg.html'> Not the best pics but the exhaust is good quality and seams to perform well but have only been on a 3 mile run so far.

I have just bough a Griffin exhaust, Made in 76mm to 63mm 304 aircraft grade stainless tube , it only has a center silencer. Life time warrenty. I can not post any pictures yet as I an waiting on delivery, if it turnes up before Tuesday I will post pictures, I am going away on Tuesday for two weeks. Cost me £425 but if it lasts I will be happy and any boost in performance will be a boost. I do lots pf short runs and my pipe never gets that hot most of the time.

As far as I know the legal requirment is that the arch covers the tire tread and not the side wall, could be wrong though.

There will still be water in your heater as the hoses enter at the top.

You can hardly say fit once and forget or he would not be replacing. I fitted Terrafirma about 2 years ago - springs and shocks and they are still like new - no rust and they perform well but they are 2"+

Yes is the answer to that, it is a great learning experience and will serve you well in the future if you are not mechanically minded. Loads of people on here will help with any questions you may have. I did my one about two years ago but I must say I am a mechanic or I should say was at the early point in my life. You can do as I did and strip every part down or you can go the fast route, Disconnect your axles, shocks and brake pipes and some body bolts and wiring and lift the whole lot of in one go. If you go the way I did it will land up costing you more than you think - well it did me - but temptation drove the price up with lots of upgrades.

I would say that is about avarage - as said keep looking you could do better.

I could not get my Defender today for the price I paid for it two years ago, really not sure why and it seams to be effecting all Land Rovers. About 3 year ago I bought a Discovery 200tdi which needed work for its next MOT but it still had a 2 month MOT and it only cost me £300 now for a MOT failure you are looking a £1000. Good if you own one and want to sell but bad for the buyer - also good for the scum bags who want to make money from your parts so take more care or your goods. I did up my insurance quite a bit last year as it was totaly rebuilt but may need to up it some more.........

Hi and welcome, there are quite a few ways of getting more from your 300tdi. Fuel pump tweek - easy to do and costs nothing. Intercooler - this will also require the fuel pump tweek. Hybred turbo costley. Have a read of this, make sure your engine timing is correct first. http://www.orrp.com/smf/index.php?topic=4722.0%22]here Frax

That happened to one of my ones 2 years ago, the nozzle froze and dropped off. I just superglued it back on and it lasted for a year till I did a complete rebuild of my Defender.

Do not give up - just take a break while you wait for the parts, In the end you know it will be right and will last for years to come.

I would second the door seal at the body bulge - door striker part just on the bend, I replaced my door seals and still get a very small gap just at hip level on passengers side. There are a couple ways of finding gaps. Smoke machine - place in cab and with doors closed check for leaks - you can hire these. Good quality torch and a good friend - in the dark sit in the cab with doors shut and get a friend to run a torch along the door seal all the way round, if you see light you have a gap. Only good for door seals unless you have a very good friend who does not mind crawling about underneath in the dark and even then if they can not reach the seals it will do no good. Let us know how you get on.................

If there was dirt in your tank it may have blocked your injectors or its given you a poor spray pattern. I would check your lift pump is still providing fuel - remove bleed screw from fuel filter and turn her over. What did you find as to the quality of your fuel ? You say that there was gunge in the tank but after 12 years that could be expected well at least a small amount.

Are you sure you are not trying to force the pump leaver to the wrong side of the cam ?

Not sure but I run 35" BF AT's but the best bet in my opinion are 32" which will fit with little to no mods and the speedo reads more accurate with 32" - well my one did when I had them on. I did fit BF muds which were 35" for a while but the noise was pretty bad and road holding was also a bit scary in the wet or ice, changed back after 4 month at great expense. As far as I remember I paid almost £1000 for a set of 4 35" BF AT's so be sure want you want or need before you buy. I will say that I have run BF's for years and find the AT to be a great tire for most conditions and they last for ever. I lot of tire places don't stock BF (well round here they dont ) I did ask the one I got my tires from (they ordered them for me) why and the boy said the same - they last far to long and would cut down there turn over,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

I fitted drilled and vented discs + green pads over a year ago and run 35" tires, they did work but the green pads did not impress. They did not wear much but they did go like a hard rubber which blocked all the groves and holes in the discs.

Hi and welcome - I hope you find this place informative, it has done me well since buying and rebuilding my Defender.

Well said - this has went well off topic now.

You could also try a fishing tackle shop, they stock lots of long pliers for getting fish hooks out of the fishes throat. Even a very small fish hook if the pliers is to big.

I did buy a set but at the time I did not know they were Britpart, I would never willingly buy anything with their name on it. What I did when I found out that they were made by Britpart was strip them and replace all the seals with quality items and the pistons are not stainless steel. They have been OK no leaks and work fine and have been on for over a year and as Western says the chances are that they do not cast the steel.

I do have a 3" lift that is the reason I fitted it, Still have the old prop but the spline was badly worn and that only took 18 years. I would also have to change the drive flange again - none of these jobs I would like to do - wish people would advertise who's parts they are selling. Well peeved off as you can probably tell. Will sleep on it but would rather just change the U/J's at least then I will know what I have, At the end of the day the best I can hope for is a replacement prop which may land up doing the same thing. I will see if Craddock's come back and if I decide to send it back - providing if they find it faulty they send me another prop of far better quality if I cover the differences in cost which I do not think is unreasonable.

Bought a front double carden front prop from Craddock’s November last year, when it turned up I found out it was a ****part , no mention of this on the site. Well fitted it (bad move) about a month later I started getting a strange noise which I spent a lot of time trying to find, wheels, bearings, suspension were all checked and found to be OK. The Defender had done no more than 8 miles per day and most of that was on Tarmacadam. The noise was getting worse – checked the prop and it was found to be tight but as it was supplied with no grease nipples I was unable to grease but what I did do was fill the joints with grease, smothered them in it and guess what the noise stopped for over a week. Contacted Craddock’s who said if I sent it back they would sent it back to Britpart and it could take 28 days before I get it or a replacement back. I use the Defender every day so cannot send it back and looks like I will have to replace the U/J’s while I wait and see if Craddock’s come up with a better idea. Does anyone know if standard quality U/J’s will fit a ****part prop

Obviously a pr**k who hates his work mate and you just happen to land up on the receiving end. At the end of the day you should land up with a stronger chassis – take the positives out of it and move to another garage.

Well back together and running like a dream, running smother as well. It was not a total waste of time as that is the first time I have been in the timing cover since it was rebuilt over a year ago. Nice to see the timing belt still looked new and not shredded along the edge like my last one & no oil in the casing. Changed the timing cover so the budgie noise has gone. Its not a bad job to do but I was glad I bought this timing kit http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281057440917

Well Mo looks like you were right but what better way to spend a Saturday night. Stripped of the timing cover which went well with the new timing kit as it was supplied with pullers. After the cover was off I lined up the timing marks to see how far they were out and besides the pump which I had moved they were pretty much spot on. Then went under to so how the flywheel lined up, I could see the grove in the flywheel although slightly out. Turned the crank very slightly and the pin popped in. Checked timing marks again and they still lined up - setting the crank without the pin is a bit of a guess as having the key way vertical is a bit of a hit or miss, you can be close enough to get it to run but still may be slightly out. It is all set now ready for the cover to go back on in the morning and then I will see if I can tell the differences in performance. Aside from the timing I had a squeak coming from the idle pulley on the cover and have another cover here which I was planning on fitting at some point. Found this which may be of interest http://yootuubee.com/video/zKnK0kJ1N-o As she sits tonight.