Souster

Hi guys Recent bought a 96 defender 90. The hand brake cable had snapped on it. So fitted a replacement today. My question is, there is no warning light for the handbrake. Neither do there appear to be a switch or wire of any kind Is this correct for this model? If not is it a requirement on MOT or where do i find it on the vehicle. Thanks

Hi guys, recently bought a 300tdi 90 96 truck cab and when driving it home i noticed how badly it was pulling to the right hand side. All discs look like they are wearing evenly. It has got wrong tyres on the side it is pulling on the rear, the back right is a fair bit smaller and the front right is an each bigger than the other side. I have no other wheels to try it out any other way. What could it be? Could it be the tyres, as if its not, i want to get the brakes sorted before tyres.

Im after a part number for defender 90 300tdi 96 reg. its the pipe inbetween the Y peice and the airbox. So youve got the intake grill on the wing, a plastic peice moulded peice on the other side of the wing, then into a flexible pipe. Then the "y peice water drain, then the pipe i want leading to the airbox. If anyone has an exploded diagram of this area would be fantastic. Thanks Josh

Where can i find the instructions mate? Ive looked on the website with no luck

Any one help? Or atleast have TD5 safari snorkel instructions

Hi Just bought a 300tdi defender 90 with a safari snorkel. I think it may have a TD5 defender snorkel fitted due to it not having the moulded spigot where it fits into the wing on the snorkel. And i beleive the TD5 doesnt have this. The reason for stripping it all down is that i dont beleive its sealed, and as a result found a cracked induction pipe. The snorkel is mounted to the wing, and then inside the wing just has the plastic peice as the land rover came out the factory... I cant remove this because it appears to be siliconed to the snorkel. But how do i get a seal on this plastic peice (at the other end) closest to the air filter? I beleive this is just like the TD5?? Any help would be great, thanks

Hi guys, Been and bought a defender again after some time away from one. Big bites again. (96 300tdi) Minor problem already. My passenger door doesnt want to shut. It just keeps popping back off its latch (abit like the button is pressed) and neither will it lock. Was very lucky tonight, it swung open at 10 mph, no damage could have been worse. What do i look for guys, im scared to drive it anywhere incase it pops open next to something and causes damage for either party. I can get it to shut slightly better without the seal, but dont think the seal is causing the problem. What do i look for behind the door card guys, i havent a clue behind there. Thanks in advance

Hi folks, Just recently i have noticed a bang that sounds like its from the rear when going over large bumps. Mainly speed bumps when on the downward face of them when the axle drops. I had a look under the land rover (90 300tdi with 125k on the clock) and i cant see anything obvious. At first, i thought it was the exhaust, as just fitted a new one, but its all secure. Has anyone got any ideas, as i dont now where to start, maybe certain bushes, springs etc. Many thanks in advance guys.

Hi there, my 90 failed its MOT on the nearside track rod end ball joint. Ive just come to buy a new ball joint and noticed the threads are handed... How do i know which hand thread mine will be? Also, ive heard that the tracking should be checked? Is this the case, even if the centres/threads are measured and the new ball joint is fitted in the same postition? And finally, how difficult is this job, is it one of those awkward ball joints? Many thanks in advance guys, Josh

Thanks for replys. I thought it may be that, but even the one a took out still opened. But how easy/cheap it is i will try another

Just recently my 300tdi has been getting rather hot on the temp gauge.. After replacing the thermostat i gave the landy a real good run working the engine fairly hard at a consistent speed of about 50-60 mph for around 30 mins with no problems at all (the temp gauge stayed mid way). Then tonight i covered about five miles and it started to get hot again and gradually reach the red on the guage. The engine has never had any overheating problems in the last year i have owned it. The oil cap and oil has absolutly no signs of emulsifieing etc and no signs of oil in the water. Has anyone got any ideas on what to do next or what the problem may be, as im unsure on the next step really. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Apologies for the extremely stupid stupid question.....But. Are the torberry connector prices for the two peices of the anderson connnector (ie, male and female parts)??

My 300tdi 90 with 125k on the clock does exactly the same... its just had a new pressure switch and oil/filter change with 10w/40 semi synthetic. Why is it a problem then if the oil light stays on for 3-4 seconds, i just thought you need to give it time for the oil pressure to build up??

Ah fantastic so its all working as it should . Once again western, thankyou for the help:D

western, mine is doing exactly what your saying. But i cant just get side lights when the engine is running so in that case is everything correct and i will never have just side lights?

Guys, ive just come to fix my wobbly headlight switch on the 300tdi 90, the nut had come loose. Once all back together i went to test my lights and now seem to have a fault. I cant seem to get just sidelights alone unless the key is turned to the off position this is on stage 1 (the 1st click from the off postion) of the headlight switch. A soon as the key is turned to stage 1, the headlights come on, but are only faint. So i then push the headlight switch to the second setting which i believe should be dipped beam and the headlights brighten. This is all while the engine is off! The same happens once the engine is started, sidelights are on but so are the headlights but only faint, then i push the headlight switch to setting two and the headlights brighten. Any ideas? This didnt seem to happen before i messed

Hi, ive done a search and i havent really found the exact answer so i thought i would ask you guys. Recently, i have noticed my clutch judder quite badly in my 300tdi 90 1997 with 120k on her. Ive always had a slight judder, but just lately its been uncontrollable. It judders when pulling away and when changing gear from 1st to 3rd and its also noticeable in reverese (which has always happened to an extent). It usually calms down abit after about 50 miles of driving but its still there. There is no noticable oil around the bell housing, and the engine oil never budges. Its recently had a new clutch master and slave but that hasnt helped the matter. I keep being told that its contamination, but i thought it would wear off after a short distance or possible get worse when warm if engine oil was leaking onto the clutch. Im not sure whether its related, but if i labour it in a higher gear than i should be, i get a terrible vibrating noise coming from the passenger side front/engine bay which is loud and sounds quite nasty but i cant source where its coming from. Any help on this would be greatley appreciated. Josh

No, i havent received mine. Its been a while now it seems its too good to be true.

Thanks western, all sorted now! I did a continuity test from the plug and all is fine. So, i gave the sender (i think thats what its called?) a tap very lightly with a spanner and as a result the light is working perfectly. Is the sender on its way out then, or can they stick?

Hi folks, the last couple of days i have had no oil pressure light come on when i turn the key to warm the glow plugs. Ive recently fitted four new glow plugs and woundered if i have disturbed anythin to do with the oil pressure light. Not sure whether its related or its a coincedence? I have checked the connection by the oil filter and that seems fine, but dont know where to look next? Any help would be greatly appreciated

Just a bit of an update. Fitted four new glow plugs today, and the landy is starting as good as when its warm. Just been out to test her and its 5 below 0 with a cold engine...Its fantastic. Thanks for all your help again folks, really pleased now

Thanks for the reply guys. Did what cackshifter said and the glow plugs were barely showing on my multimeter allthough they were very slightly making the analogue multimeter needle hover, but i believe they should be kicking the needle right over nearest the 1 ohms.. I also tried them connecting directly to my battery, and they didnt even get warm not 1 of the 4. So they are almost deffinately my starting problem in the -10 celcius we had last night. Many thanks Guys, Appreciate it.

Hello, I think my glow plugs are suspect on my 300tdi 90 120k on her. As it struggles to start in cold weather and takes a long time to fire after a long time cranking. Its a new started motor and battery which isnt related to the poor starting when cold. It doesnt burn any oil, and starts perfectly every time all day once its started and its the same when the weather is warmer, starts absolutly fine. So My question is, how do i go about pulling them out the engine and testing them? ive heard i need to apply 12v to them but at what point do i apply the +ve and -ve?

Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately i havent got the facilities and expertees in moving the engine or gearbox. My plan was to drill a 30mm hole under where the clip is located where the clutch slave cylinder fits in order to locate the push rod clip onto the clutch fork.

Hi folks, as you may already know im struggling to locate the clutch rod clip onto the clutch fork after changing the slave cylinder. After many hours under my 300tdi 90, we just can not do it no matter how hard we try and what we use(spent about 5-6 hours under her in total on different days)!! Anyway, what are you opinions on a inspection hole about 30mm in diameter to locate the clip in the correct position and then covering it with a suitable blanking plate and gasket/silicon? To be honest, we are out of options as we have tried everything... what do you thinK?