Simon_CSK

And now with it finished and installed. Just need to put the dash back together

I received a similar letter and when I got the photo I took a photo of my car and sent it back to them. The two vehicles looked completely different They were very efficient in cancelling the fine.

They have to then prove that it was your vehicle. Ask to see the evidence from this new sighting as there should be photographic evidence..

I would very much doubt that because the electrical draw for just one seat would be high. Also it would mean when the drivers seat is on then the passenger seat would be on.

That is my understanding too.

Which original ECU and wiring? Range Rover or Defender?

Need do an oil change on a TDV8 Range Rover L322 and know that I need 5w30 synthetic. There is cheap oil at £16 per 20l right up to expensive oils what is the difference. I would assume that there must be some.

I am with the RAC and as part of my cover is included key insurance which covers lost keys, stolen keys or broken keys. They replaced my P38 key last week because it disintegrated and my Discovery key last year because I lost it. Disco was through an auto locksmith the P38 was through the local main stealer.

After finding and buying a P38 with black leather interior and piano wood I liked the idea of putting the piano wood trim on my car however my car has lightstone leather so I was left with the option of changing the leather colour from black to lightstone or changing the walnut and laquering it black. I chose the latter option and am almost complete. I have worked the wood patiently rubbing down and applying laquer possibly as many as 10 coats just to get it right. Am now in the process of cleaning up the leather. Here is my attempt which still needs some work to finish but think I have not done too bad a job.

Have spent the day playing with the brakes on two Range Rovers 😋 Accumulator changed and the brakes are working well on the P38. And brake pipes replaced from front to both rear wheels on my TDV8. Only need to fill up with fluid and bleed, check for leaks and refit all covers and trim. Job for later in the week as I was too tired tofinish it off.

Will check when I get time. Thanks Don't know but will check. Thanks

The car is now being used regularly for the first time in 3 years so everything is starting to be used again. Before I put the car in for the MOT check I made sure all the brake sliders were working, the calipers were free and the pads had plenty of "meat" on them. Over the last couple of days,I am not driving the car fast, I have noticed that the brakes require a lot of effort to make the car stop. Am I right to assume that the accumulator has failed?

So a bad set up with the H gate could cause the problem? I haven't set up the selector prpoerly yet and didn't know that was connected to the computer. Obviously everything is.

Driving the car today I gave it a little gas and the gearbox kicked down as it should, then got a gearbox error followed by fuse 6 failed. I have had the fuse 6 failure before and when checked the fuse was in tact. Can someone tell me what fuse 6 does and what is the likely gearbox issue? Low fluid?

Yes . Makes total sense. I think it is the chip that stores the info. so simply transferring the chip from my old clocks to the high mileage clocks should be enough. Depending on my soldering skills.

So Ed to those who haven't a clue about electronics it is the big chip in the centre of my first photo which stores the Odometer and that can be removed to bu**er up the BCEM and reset the mileage to whatever. That looks doable and should be able to take the chip out of the high mileage, reset the BECM to 0 insert my old clocks to update to existing mileage then reinsert the chip in the high mileage clocks which are now zero and the BECM should reset to the existing mileage.

Ed Have pm'd you

Only have the one that is the donor and the broken one. Neither of which I really want to break any more that they are already.

There are 3 chips on the separate odometer board. What are the chances?

Am I right in thinking the mileage must be stored on a chip?

Peter Correct to some degree however I did change to another speedo head which had 125k on it, 7k higher than my current head. This one also had faults however when I changed back the speedo reading went back to my original the only difference now when I start up I get a message that states I have an odometer error.

I have an issue with my Speedo in that for some reason it doesn't work. It is electrical and hasn't worked for a number of years. It did however flicker into life for 0.6 miles today and got me thinking that perhaps I should get it functioning. I have onother head which is from a (Very) high milage ar and whilst I accept the mileage should make no difference as I don't intend to sell it I don't really want that milage on my MOT history. When I opened up the speedo I noticed that the odometer is on a separate card connected with a ribbon wire. Does anyone know if the odometer memory is in this card and can this be interchanged with my own card to keep my mileage correct?

And pop it did. Was only a very minor movement was quite surprised. The sunroof is now synced. Another little niggle sorted thanks.

Took mine for a run today to test drive it after fitting LPG and agree big smiles. I like my P38 very much but have recently addedd an L322 HSE to my collection which is so good that I am in the process of changing it to a TDV8.Range Rovers just keep getting better and better but think I need to do something about my CSK.

Having spent the last 12 months getting the car running, curing the water leaks and converting to LPG I think I am just about there with only the cosmetics to spend time on. When syncing the windows and sunroof today I noticed that the sunroof wouldn't open. I think at some point I may have manually closed it and this may have diengaged the motor. Can anyone give me more insight into this and how to fix it. The motor is certainly working.