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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
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As you say, I would expect it to be the clutch although it's strange you can only get it to happen as you go into second. I assume all this is happening in hi range on the transfer box, so nothing is changing in the transfer box other than torque and speed which you would expect to also cause the judder in other gears....
Is there a chance that this has been happening for a while and it's just the 'testing' of the new box or maybe the lack of sloppiness in the new box that is now revealing it?
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Just checking, when you say as you engage gear you get a judder... is that when you move gear lever or when you let the clutch pedal back up?
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Rave states cylinder head bolts may be used up to a maximum of 5 times.
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Manual says can be used 5 times if I remember correctly .... maybe it's 6 ....
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To set your mind at rest some more I did the exact same thing about 2000 miles ago, no head problems so far
Just undid the two head bolts then tightened as per manual, just as Ralph has said.
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I'll add another to the ditto! It's easy enough to check by removing the inspection plate on the back of the transfer box.
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Glad you worked something out
The Speedo I sent you is set to the standard KPH pulse count (which I can't remember off the top of my head) as I had kept a backup of the original memory before my experiments.
Nick Williams noticed when he did his speedo conversion that the BritPart sensor caused an incorrect reading as well http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=69070&view=findpost&p=594388
So quite why do BritPart produce a transducer that outputs double the number of pulses it should?
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So it sounds like you will sell a lot of X-brakes then Si ..... silver lining for you there, will help with the purchase of some load rated tyre to be used just for MOTs
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Glad you got it out in the end
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By splitting the collar I just mean cut a slit along it's length, then weld a flange either side of the slit so you can bolt through them.
So it makes it like a clamp that holds a pipe.
By putting two bolts through the flanges you can reduce the diameter and if you use a third bolt through one flange (between the other two bolts) and pressing against the other flange you can increase it. .... I probably need to do a drawing...
Edit: By collar I mean twisty bit aka the bit on the right
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Have you tried these two numbers?
Telephone: +44 (0) 1579 349688 taken from http://www.qtservices.co.uk/newsletter/
and
Tel:+44 (0) 1752 696353 taken from http://www.qtservices.co.uk/parts/contact.php
No idea if they are current or anything just found both from their website
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Do the MOD not use motorbikes anymore?
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You can get more slack on the cable by releasing the cable from it's clip in the engine bay, from memory to persuade the cable to release from the back of the speedo you need to use a pair of pliers to squeeze the sides of the white plastic part which will bend the plastic release the clamping part of it.
Caveat it's from memory so may be wrong
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On the prototype if you split that collar you could use a couple of bolts to close/open up to adjust the clearance to find which works best. If it's too sloppy there may be a tendency to twist the collar sideways as you finish the cut as the support of the scrap piece is lost. With the cut being hidden by the collar it may be hard to 'prepare' for the loss of support as you forget where the end of the cut is. Maybe just a longer collar would solve the problem (if it even exists, just hypothesising here, too early in the morning for long words really
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Don't forget the other end of the range to .... make sure you can turn it by hand when engine is cold ..... and off
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In which case I'll leave the orientation as is (which is as rave) check phasing is correct and look elsewhere for my bad vibes .... only happens about 55 mph
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That's really neat, I'm guessing the depth of the wave on the profiled guide is half the diameter of the tube it's designed to notch? A clever and simple idea that should be relatively cheap to produce, obviously a different one would be required for each diameter of tube you wanted to notch.
How much clearance would there need to be between the collar and the tube to allow it still to rotate and also make allowance for differences in tube batches and the expansion from cutting heat?
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Why show pics of the Roverdrive Defender model?
Series model pokes out the side, same as a Fairey:
Very good point, I wasn't thinking straight. Apologies
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It was making a lot more noise than usual but Im fairly sure it was top end, it sounded like like it was 'chuffing' (probably as it fired on the buggered cylinder)
I will drop the sump (again... last time I changed the oil a few thou ago the drain plug sheared!) pull out the pistons and crank. If it needs a rebore I might be looking at a new engine, anybody have one for sale?!. Dont think the head is damaged somehow, I will put it on a steel table and make sure there is no distortion.
Ben
You won't get the crank out without removing the engine, but you should be able to check it in situ and the piston can obviously be pushed out the top of the block.
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Just what you need for travelling to Tescos
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if your on about the wildcat, bowler dont make them anymore.
Is the Nemesis not available yet? (like I'll ever have the money to own one! lol
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Won't be a roverdrive because you would have noticed this give away
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When I looked at the Roverdrives at Billing (admittedly I was only looking at the defender ones) the lever to engage it is mounted to the left of the hi-low lever and a bit longer. I can't see anyone going to the trouble of mounting it anywhere else as they have made quite a few custom parts to put it there.
Been one of those days...
in International Forum
Posted
Never expected to see BSOD1 in a thread on here![:)](//content.invisioncic.com/r226025/emoticons/default_smile.png)
1Blue Screen Of Death, What windows presents you with when it has thrown every last toy out of the pram.