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CwazyWabbit

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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit

  1. Can one even buy snow chains big enough for a defender? I'm running 285/75R16 and I had thought it wouldn't be possible? I'm keen too if it's possible- M+S rating seems to mean very little in the real world..

    The official part number is STC7664 although at £480 I'm thinking you'll look for an alternative! The pictures of them I've seen look no different to the cheapo ones you get for normal cars tbh

    Apparently they are for 235/85 R16 & 7.5 R16 Tyres

    Actually appears there are loads of different part numbers, but most seem to be about the same price

  2. Those pictures seem to be different from one of the many previous auctions.......

    I notice it doesn't have a spare wheel anywhere (there's a fuel can on the rear door and nothing on the bonnet) would have thought that would be useful on an 'expedition'

    I wonder if the succesful bidder will turn up on here with questions about his aquisition?

  3. Relatively cheap idea but would take development time. Use an arduino device to measure voltage dropped across a shunt/resistor with it's analogue input and to record this using a pc, a few calculations would turn this into a current measurement and you could use your favorite spreadsheet program to draw pretty graphs etc.

    Depends how much time you want to put in.... or if you could find someone that has already done it.....

    Have a look at http://www.ladyada.net/make/logshield/lighttemp.html for some ideas

  4. Does it also have 240v input? If so you could try using one of those plug in jobbies that tells you how much electric you are using to help you be greener. If there is something 'wrong' with the fridge it will use more power from whichever source it's powered from. It won't give you a current reading as such but you should be able to work it out as it will tell you how many kwh you have used.

    Just a thought, I'll be prepared to be shot down now :)

  5. My usual method on the Defender or the series 3, is engage 1st gear low (4wd for the series 3 and diff lock for the 90), breaker bar on nut, then trolley jack under the bar and jack it up until all the slack in the transmission is taken out. Then belt the end of the breaker bar with lump hammer as its still jacked up - the shock will then slacken off the nut. Works everytime.

    Unfortunately Mickeys diff isn't in a vehicle....

  6. How about length of pipe on the breaker bar and clamping length of wood/metal etc to the bench to stop it tipping? More than welcome to pop up to mine Mickey.... my bench is in the fecking heavy weight class with a good vice etc .... I'll even clear some of the rubbish out of the way so we can get as far as it! ;)

  7. Are you absolutely certain it's damaged? When I did mine that pipe was an absolute nightmare to get connected, it would look like it was lined up but wouldn't screw in. Turned out it wasn't lined up dead straight, I swore a lot and I finally got it to line up but I was contemplating undoing the steering box and then connecting up the pipe. Anyway if you have actually seen the thread damaged please ignore me.

    Mine was an earlier defender, not sure if it makes any difference..

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