CwazyWabbit
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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
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Mine is in through the egr blanking plate, I put it at an angle to get the tip into the flow of gasses. If you don't have the tools to weld it in at an angle you can always put it in straight and then bend the actual thermocouple (carefully!)
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If you get bored have a watch of this, no need for the pin as the system has a fairly big design hole.
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So with the PIN and a copy of the retailer receipt you have the card number, expiry date and PIN which is probably enough to generate a new card. Didn't realise the number showed up on the screen from the PIN pad though - that's a big design flaw
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The pin is showing up because it is being entered by the customer at the point where the retailer should be entering the value of the sale, the 'attack' relies on the customer not reading what is on the hand held terminal from what I can tell. So it isn't really a design flaw, hence there could be problems with getting money back from the bank.... JMHO
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The important question is whether the bank recompensed him for a weakness in their system.
G.
They could argue that you had been careless with your pin by not reading what was said on the terminal and refuse to pay out.
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I think they do on the retailer's copy.
Chris
Regardless of whether they have the card number once they have the pin they quite often nick the card one way or the other. There is also at least one technique where a stolen card can be used in a machine without knowing the correct pin.
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Cheers Nige, always good to learn of different attacks happening. Helps you to be on your guard.
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oh come on, theres got to be some kind of an update already!!!
There you go ....
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only if it's registered with NHS/DVLA as a ambulance/blood/organ transport, the use of blue lights is tightly controlled.
I was just taking the mick with my comment about carrying human organs and my subsequent post pointed out it was illegal to have blues at all, including a link to the reference...
Apologies if it came across differently.
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so my £20 idea has gone to a £450 press plus whatever else i need......
i assume the bigger vee will be better 'cos it works like leverage?
and Nige, the 6mm target, is that 'cos you cant weld anything thinner without blowing holes?
but thats a good chart!! 
i suppose this is another idea thats stays on paper.......
PS. just to remind you im unemployed and at college!!
money isn't my strong point and come on! i own a land rover! hahaWell you can always do the other suggestion (can't remember if it was this thread or another) basically using a thin cutting disc in your angle grinder cut part way through the metal along the fold line... fold it and then run a weld along the inside to strengthen it again.
It's cheap, I've never done it my self but I guess it depends on your grinding accuracy really as to how good it looks afterwards. Worth a play if it's your only option....
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I guess these particular ones arent blue unless they are turned on, so noone will spot the colour if they are not used.
Good point, and of course you can always claim they were on the car when you got it and you didn't know they lit up blue....
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Oh, and does 'a ball bearing dropped from 1m' sound like a rigorous military test to anyone else? If it was a snooker ball i'd be impressed...
Depends how big your balls are..... (Bearings obviously)
I suspect phrases like 'tested to military standards' carry about as much true meaning as 'aircraft grade aluminium'. Just marketing phrases unless they specify which standards, for example there are many grades of aluminium used in aircraft production, some of which are just bog standard stuff.... but the phrase looks good in adverts. I'd say 'tested to military standards' is the same.
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But on a serious note
Any colour light is OK to be on a vehicle if it is covered up or not connected up (excluding blue).
Taken from http://www.ukemergen...id=52&Itemid=61
So you may find yourself in trouble if some busybody has the hump
EDIT: I was assuming you were in the UK, but the edge of your numberplate seems to hint you are not.
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I think you can use the blues ... one of the allowed emergency vehicles is 'for moving around human organs' so unless your car is remote control I think you qualify
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I made one! I kind of abandoned the project because I was told that a Chinese PTO / hydraulic winch was about to be launched.
Mine was pretty simple to machine - using one of my favourite milling / turning tricks to cut the splines to engage with the back of the gearbox. It didn't use a collar to engage / disengage, it slides the whole of the adaptor on the splines of the hydraulic pump, using a cam to move it.
I'll see if I can dig out the drawings - I doubt I'll be turning it in to a product any time soon.
Si
I'd be interested in seeing them if you do find them......
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Can you imagine having collected all those, plus the 60 odd sold on his home soil only to have the government confiscate them? Sad times
Lets face it, whose Land Rover hasn't dripped oil at some point?Collecting 90+ Land Rovers in 25 years must have been a full time job!
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Good info there Nige
so for Landy-Novice to bend 3ft of 2mm he's looking at somewhere between 36 tonne for a 1/4" rad or 14 tonne for a 5/8" rad ... Nice to know what sort of pressures we are talking about.God only knows what pressure Longlandys press has
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I reckon it's pretty much down to luck as to what happens when you have large lumps of metal flailing around at speed
Having seen the Mythbusters episode in question (albeit a few years ago) I seem to remember the car being a pretty bog standard saloon car, I imagine the effects on a 4x4 are slightly different due to the increased ground clearance allowing greater angles of 'flailing' ..... may also be an effect from the increased weight of the vehicle keeping momentum, although as it was an American car and not a euro box this might not be such a big factor.
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@ejparrot... yeah, hopefully, but 'cos its buried, I won't be able to find out too easily
@MrKev... cheers for that. I was looking at them and wondering if the red pull switch could be bypassed?
Just leave the red pull switch in the on position. IIRC they aren't so much a switch as more an alternative way to activate the normal switching mechanism if you see what I mean.
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Did you use 2 sets? or just put them on one axle, if so which axle?
I noticed the web site also claims them as suitable for mud which to my understanding requires a much tougher chain than snow does, I've not seen that mentioned on other web sites.
The 'Croisiere blanche in 2007' sounds like a good test of their strength, a friend of mine trashed some new cheap ebay snow chains on his car doing a 4 mile journey last year in the snow, so for the artiks to have survived your test makes them sound very good value at less than £150.
Thanks again for your input
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I can't believe there was £2k's worth of sellable parts/scrap in it so that leaves the terrifying prospect that someone somewhere is going to try to finish it & put it on the road.
That will be a whole world of pain for whoever bought it ....
I love the fact he has spent what appears to be quite a bit of time flaring the arches only for the tyres to still stick out too far to pass an MOT
I imagine all the other mods will be in a similar style, ie not quite achieving what they should. So the purchaser will basically have to undo everything already done to it
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You dont need vees for the bottom tool on a press brake, I have a sedgewick plate bender(better than my modern one) than can do 100" of 16mm and the bottom tool is square side and adjustable gap for different thickness.
Also using a 90deg piece of angle iron wont work too well as you cant go past 90 to take up material spring back.
Good point about spring back, I'd forgotten about that. Just for a bit of tool porn could you post a picture of your sedgewick plate bender? That must be a very hefty machine....
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It does go to show the margin on these intercoolers from Twisted and the like, theres are double pass though which is not as good but allows you to refit the regular gubbins to mate up.
Is double pass through not as good due to decreased flow and more lag? I would have thought cooling would be better on double pass through..... I was toying with the idea of two smaller intercoolers linked so as to brink connections back to the normal position
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Using the same idea as mickeys small bender you could build a rectangular frame using old RSJ's from scrap yard/building demolition ..... get a stupidly large bottle jack, I believe you can purchase 50 tonne ones..... then make the 'V shaped' former using non webbed angle iron, to stop it splaying under pressure sit it between two upturned lengths of angle iron and weld everything to the face of one of the RSJ's..... for the 'blade' part use a thick lump of plate with the edge sharpened, run the ends in a slot created by more angle iron, weld some 'stuff' to the top edge of the blade so the bottle jack can sit on it.
I bet that is all very confusing and I really should have drawn a picture ... oh well
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i've just managed to sort out all the pipework for the intercooler hopefully making it as simple as possible.please bear in mind that this is a 200tdi Disco conversion using a "Steve Parker" intercooler conversion pipe kit.
this is what i used,
1x 76mm alloy pipe
1x 76mm/76mm elbow
1x 76mm to 51mm elbow
1x 76mm to 51mm straight reducer
hopefully this may be of use to anyone looking to upgrade there intercooler
Thanks for the pictures
but thats a good chart!! 
money isn't my strong point 
so for Landy-Novice to bend 3ft of 2mm he's looking at somewhere between 36 tonne for a 1/4" rad or 14 tonne for a 5/8" rad ... Nice to know what sort of pressures we are talking about.
Snapped Cam-belt 300Tdi - What tools/supplies to take for a job away f
in International Forum
Posted
Along with everything yella90 listed it might be worth taking a rocker cover gasket as well.
Oh and something to clean all the carp out of the timing case (old paint brush or similar), when I did mine it was full of oily rubber fluff....
And don't forget one of those massive portfolio cases to take back the gigantic IOU that your brother will no doubt write out for you when the job is done
Just a thought, if you are going to use the flick the starter method to undo the crank bolt you need to do something to stop the pistons hitting the valves first..... but you probably already thought of that... failing that a crank pulley holder could be added to your list (but they are expensive, unless you make one).