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CwazyWabbit

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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit

  1. the rear pane still slides open,it's slightly recessed so not as smooth as they look from a distance, the body opening looks about the same size as standard windows, so they don't look much of a gain in see through area.

    You can have them as a non opening window too Ralph.

    They might suit some people but they aren't what I want for my 110, each to their own....

  2. This seems to be the relevant bit http://www.ukmot.com/appendixC.asp

    '- Any structure or panelling which is supportive to either the component mounting or its load bearing member within 30cm of the mounting location. eg. In the examination of a seat belt mounting on an inner sill, consideration must be given to the outer sill, door pillar, floor panel, wheel arch or any other supportive structure within 30cm of the component mounting point.'

    So it appears they are subject to consideration.....

  3. MOT testers aren't allowed to remove anything as part of the test. Are the outer sills structural? If not providing and they don't present a danger due to sharp edges I don't think there is a problem. A friend had an old banger failed due to rusty door bottoms being dangerous to the public, he was told by the MOT guy to put duct tape on the sharp edges and he would pass it.

  4. just gunna get a price for some angle, im gunna make a 36inch one, and i think the thinness should be 50x50x8mm, does this sound right?

    Depends on the design you use, 3ft of 8mm sounds a bit light to me if it's not braced. But you could always build it unbraced and try, if/when it flexes just add bracing till it doesn't. Or if the metal you are bending isn't particularly deep you may be able to just use some G-clamps to stop flexing.

  5. What do you plan on making with it? If it's for a one of job you may finder it cheaper/easier to go to a sheet metal place and get them to fold it for you.....

    Good luck with the searching, 2mm steel is quite a thick sheet to bend so whatever plans you do find uprate the thickness of any plate or angle if you can .... it won't do any harm and increased rigidity will increase your chances of a proper neat bend :)

  6. You could try building something like the one here http://www.old.bd-4....ndingbrake.html

    I would also add adjustable bracing like on the one here http://www.ablett.jp..._me_a_brake.htm

    Don't make it any wider than needed as that will just increase the likelihood of centre flex, and use the heaviest gauge steel you can find .......

    Or you could take Nige's approach and buy a 50 ton press and make nice hydraulic folder :)

    BTW There is a reason that decent ones cost a lot of money ;)

  7. i saw that, unfortunately no one was actually silaging, my mate also has a 200TDI series 3 project so when there both back up and running we plan to fit a PTO to one, and chop (pick up grass, condition and blow into trailer) with it and use th eother to cart.

    the one carting will need to have a standalone hydraulic pump in th back for the tip function.

    Will a 200tdi have enough power to drive a silage harvester?

  8. Well I guess it ultimately depends on the width of the piece as well as the thickness, but if you were to try a full width piece of 2mm I think those hinge pins would break off.... even if they held the centre part would be unlikely to fold neatly as the bender would flex.

    I think you would be wasting your money expecting that to work .... JMHO

  9. I read someone say that it you put snow chains on both axles you can ruin your diff as there is too much stress, does that mean you should not use diff lock?

    .....

    That sounds like an old wives tale to me. The only scenario I can see that happening is if you had diff lock on and got 'transmission wind up' .... now managing to get transmission wind up on snow/ice even with chains on would be quite impressive.....

    I've heard it is far more dangerous to your centre diff to travel on snow/ice without diff lock engaged, the centre diff can be damaged by spinning a wheel for too long as it is only designed to even out the small differences in speed caused by turning corners etc. (I'm just repeating what I read elsewhere on here, can't find the original post atm)

    EDIT: One of the posts about centre diff damage http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=22094&view=findpost&p=223592

  10. hello!

    I have Volvo TGB 11 snowchains for my 110. Tyre siz 255.85.16. works VERY WELL and those chains are made to last! Easy to use, just put then on the grond, drive car onthen and fix them! And i promice....used wrong you vill blow you diffs! ;)

    cheers

    Jan

    ketjut4.jpg

    Now they look like nice chains :) Where would you find them for sale?

  11. .....

    Snow chains seem remarkably unpopular

    People have no need for them it seems

    .....

    I found last winter that the Defender was fine in the snow, but once it got icy there were a few brown trouser moments. Chains would have been nice in that situation. Also chains are supposed to be removed once you get to normal road surface again or they wear out really quickly (at least the ones I looked at said that). So with some roads cleared and some not you could end up putting them on and taking them off a lot.

    I might get some to leave in the Landy just in case I'm really stuck.....

  12. OK - the simplest data logger I can think up is an analogue meter with the tip of a felt pen glued to the needle. Then glue the meter to the hour hand of a clock so the pen draws a line on the face?

    In place of the meter you could use a small DC motor turning against a spring - or an elastic band. That would develop more torque and move a bigger pen.

    Bit of a blue-Peter solution - but it could work!

    Si

    You'd have to remember to remove the minute hand :) I also imagine you'd need to support the outside of the hour hand so it didn't flex under the weight of the meter and jam everything up.

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