CwazyWabbit
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Posts posted by CwazyWabbit
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Is it possible to drive off very very slowly with the an assistant sticking their head in places they shouldn't to get a closer look?
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In my mind, if they are only £50+VAT cheaper than an Ashcroft locker, I would happily spend the difference to buy something that I know is going to work, and work well.
An Ashcroft locker needs more to make it work though.... compressor, switches, solenoids etc
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cheers for that but none came under £4361!
and cwazywabbit, road tax is the last of my worries!
I guessed that, was just trying to cheer you up
Are you seriously saying that none of the group 1 cars can be insured by you for less than £4361?
If so that is truly amazing, I know you are young but what else is against you? Are you trying to insure a brand new car? Surely you can insure an old heap third party for significantly less
I guess there are some advantages to getting old.....
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Most of the group 1 cars are small engined which means that if it's a pre 2001 car you'll pay the lower road tax price
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I'm running same as you now, but was running Cooper Discoverer S/T. They're just too expensive now. Plenty of Coopers being run in Aussie, they have a huge anti-chipping quality on gravel roads.
Anti-chipping? never heard that phrase, does it mean they don't pick up gravel chips? or they don't get chipped? just curious
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Well it was on ebay being auctioned to raise money for the mountain rescue lot, but that has mysteriously been cancelled. It would be pretty stupid of the owner to drive it back up again seeing as his court case isn't finished yet... he still has charges of dangerous driving apparently.
Although this story says he was up Snowdon yesterday..... checking the route maybe?
http://www.grough.co.uk/magazine/2011/09/29/rogue-4x4-reappears-on-snowdon-summit
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From Their website
'With a Tonks4x4 galvanised chassis replacement we can swap your defender chassis within a week and charge from £1700 including the new chassis.'
How do they manage that price?
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The 'secret' seems to be at 1:38 in the video. My guess is that notch in the two red cages is designed in such a way as to only allow the diff to release when one wheel is going faster. If both are going faster then the red cages are stationary relative to each other and it won't release. Pure guess obviously. Feel free to debate
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1
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That's what I realised but couldn't be bothered to add them into the calculations
.Fair enough, you did say you hadn't bothered with them
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while we are on the subject of led's, i bought some 12v ones to use on my land rover a while back, worked absolutely fine with the engine off cos obviously battery voltage is around 12.5v, however when i fired it up and got the full 14v, they all blew. How would i go about making sure they only receive 12v regardless of whether the engine is running or not because i still have a lot of spares of them. Thanks
Try something like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/170701103535
Obviously you need the 12v one, you could build one yourself cheaper....
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Hmm, need bigger motor...
Very rough calculation means that (I think) an electric motor on the PTO (excluding the transfer box ratio / diff ratio for the moment since that complicates things in my mind without paper) means that you'd need a motor capable of ~170Nm torque to get an unladen 110 moving.
Maybe a Gigglepin style box for all four of the motors.
The 3.54:1 of the diff and the 1.41:1 or 3.3 of the transfer box would significantly reduce that though.
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This help?
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It appears that both wheels will overrun the crown wheel and there will be no engine braking? There is no mention of this in their explanation
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Erm, wouldn't that also mean you have no reverse either..... My guess (and it is just a guess) is there must be more to it than a simple 'ratchet' mechanism
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2.8TGV, 33's and an overdrive...
http://www.ep90.com/index.php?id=70
http://www.ep90.com/index.php?id=88
I believe the remains of the OD are now in the back of the shed
Mention of the overdrive failure on this page
http://www.ep90.com/index.php?id=80
Was a GKN
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It has to be at least as strong as the original metal too.
maybe, but the mot man isn't going to care! as long as the patch has been seam welded, HAPPY DAYS!!
MOT bloke might not care but if you have a bad accident and they decide to go over the car with a fine toothed comb you may care then .... in fairness that is more likely with bodged chassis repairs but you get my drift.
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or
• "Hybrid vehicle (HV)" means a vehicle powered by a hybrid power train.
• "Hybrid electric vehicle (HEV)" means a vehicle powered by a hybrid electric power train;
• "Hybrid power train" means a power train with at least two different energy converters and two different energy storage systems (on-board the vehicle) for the purpose of vehicle propulsion.
• "Hybrid electric power train" means a power train that, for the purpose of mechanical propulsion, draws energy from both of the following on-vehicle sources of stored energy/power:
o consumable fuel
o an electrical energy/power storage device (e.g.: battery, capacitor, flywheel/generator ...)
and
• “Power train" means the system of energy storage device(s), energy converter(s) and transmission(s) that converts stored energy to mechanical energy delivered at the wheels for propulsion of the vehicle.
So based on all that one of those old mopeds with pedals would be a hybrid... so as such you could add pedals to your landrover to make it a hybrid! Some sort of belt and pulley mechanism on the transfer box pto and get the passengers to do some work
Wouldn't have to go fast or actually be particularly practical.... but it would be a hybrid! then you could drive around burning fossils to your hearts content. EDIT: I forgot energy storage .... leave a Mars Bar and some Lucozade on the dash
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Pretty much of the LEDs we use at work draw around 20mA at 3.3V. This covers all sorts of SMD and through holes types.
Based on these figures you'd need 250 LEDs to draw 5A!
That'll be some Christmas Tree!
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In my mind the only way the fingers would get damaged is if the release bearing got trashed or the release lever actually ended up going into them when it fell off.
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Have a look at this http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=68899&view=findpost&p=589784
Otherwise you are left with the traditional route of removing the exterior rubber trim, drilling out all the rivets holding the frame in (40 odd per side IIRC), then 4 screws are holding the frame together. Once the frame is split and everything is in bits it's easy enough to put back together.... well sometimes the rubber holding the fixed pane is a bugger to refit actually. Anyway once it's done rivet it all back in and hope the seal to the body doesn't leak
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You must have some good tape, on full boost you should have 0.8bar of pressure in that pipe.
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May well do that mate. With the risk of sonding a complete moron and iv had a search but had no joy could you or someone tell me what tools / equipment i would need to do the job?
Have a look at this thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=62423&st=20&p=541463&hl=+headlight%20+relay&fromsearch=1entry541463
Especially post #38 from western as it has a circuit diagram http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=62423&view=findpost&p=541584
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whats the point in fitting these?
surly the temp gauge is enough?These give you the exhaust gas temperature within seconds, this is pretty much the closest you will get to measuring the temperature in the cylinders. The temperature changes surprisingly quickly as the load on the engine changes, you never notice this from a normal engine temperature gauge. If the temperature gets above 700 ish centigrade for a while you can melt a piston and other bits and pieces. In the mean time your normal gauge would still be showing the temp as normal.
If you start adjusting your injector pump to get better performance it is very easy to raise your EGT's to dangerous temperatures and ruin your engine..... worth adding an EGT gauge before you destroy your engine.
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I knew some adults would come along shortly with the full facts
Thanks MickeyW -
If they were fitted the other way and a nut came off would it be possible for the bolt to come out and get jammed in the yokes of the prop leading to more damage?
Also with it captive in this way even if the nut is off it will still provide some strength to the joint (assuming at least some of the bolts still have nuts on).
From memory there is also a ridge on the transfer box flange that should have stopped the bolt head from turning, however Land Rover changed the size of the head so this doesn't work anymore...... but still another possible reason for the direction of installation.
Anyway it's not that bad a job removing the flange to put them in the 'correct' way.
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Kaiser Auto Locking Differential
in Discovery Forum
Posted
I do agree with you, just wanted to point out it wasn't a simple £100 more gets you two Ashcrofts. If I had the money for lockers I'd much rather some that I was in full control of them... but then I'm a bit of a control freak anyway!
lol