Dark green 90

You mention mechanism may be tight i see on the side of the motor there is a screw with a locking nut, would backing this out release it a bit?

Series 3 cable came and fitted it tonight (trim to length,same as defender) after refitting motor i noticed i dont have an earth cable to the bulkhead Where on the motor does it attach? could this be the reason i have a 20 amp fuse instead of a 10 fitted? (10 blows straight away) thanks.

What about 4 doors 3 ft wide hinged to make a concertina door! Just a thought.

Heavy duty lamp guards/covers

Probably, about 15 years ago took one of my triumphs for an exhaust!!!! took it back 4 times before it was right.

I know most of you, if not all do your own repairs/maintenance but while in the pub this lunchtime i read an add from Kwik fit claiming that after having a brake check and fitting of shoes/pads that they would replace worn or damaged pads/shoes FREE for as long as you own the vehicle. There is probably a catch! Im guessing the fitting only is free.

Its snapped and the end is chewed and splayed apart.

Hi All I need a new wiper cable as i have snapped mine, Phoned craddocks and they have never sold one,dont have a price for one and would have to order from LR Would the cable from a series 3 fit my 90? They have series in stock.

Thanks Neil The pics in the thread link are just what i needed all seems clear and simple now

New box in hit switch,half a wipe,stopped checked fuse : ok checked for loose wires:none checked relay:clicks when switched so ok removed motor:broken cable!!! plugged motor back in on floor:works fine i had the blades in the parked position when i refited the box so how have they snapped the cable? Any suggestions about refitting new cable and blade starting positions when refiting would be great.

If your transfering the old fittings to the new bonnet it may help to make some templates.

more secure the better,alarm it. Nothing is pikey proof if they want to get in they will,make it awkward and they look for easier target we had a steel container which they cut a 18" square hole in with portable gas axe on a windy night they cut the hole 5ft from the ground so as not to hit combustables inside,then chucked a kid or midget gippy through the hole to open the doors from the inside. 20k of gear gone.

Whats wrong with your old bonnet, Chequer plate can cover a lot and black looks ok, imo

Only had about 20 mins daylight so Got the speedo cable off removed hose from demist vent there are two screws holding the vent on and one of the heads is behind the instrument panel housing,(there is no way i am stripping anymore out of the cab or this is going to turn into a rebuild) so removed one screw and forced other one removed nuts on wheelbox,took off backing plate and pulled box shaft through hole, No ! there is a 1/2 red plastic captive oblong nut on the back of the dash that stops the box coming out far enough to clear hole! removed this and pulled box out and ran off end of rack,HOOBLOODYRAY.... Observation: removing the backing plate and bending tab is ok for passenger side,driver side i would go for the "packing the outside" as a much simpler remedy.

I had a gt6 some years ago and it smoked and blew oil out of the dipstick hole, crankcase compression in this case knackered rings.

you could also try snowball!

Get a 2a, even more character

OK Got the dash top off and the passenger side box is easily accessable however i need to change the driver side box which is stuck behind the screen air vent to get to the screws i need to remove the instrument panel and speedo cable, there isnt enough room for me to get the cable undone so i guess i will have to remove the speedo from the transfer box to get enough slack? once i have done this (tmrw) is there anything i should know about removal and refiting the new box? (haynes doesnt cover them ) any help gratefully received ps. whoever said this was a fiddly pitfa job was right.......

Cheers Ralph I haven't missed any then, i will give it a lever tmrw, seems caught near instruments,passenger side is free. (also removed steering cowl)

My main beam switch would jump out/turn off over a bump so i picked one up at old sod last september and chucked it in the back My MOT was in November and the garage replaced the switch However since then the steering wheel has developed an annoying squeak I thought it would relent after a while but it hasnt. Could the switch not be fitted properly or is something too tight?

Thanks for the pic Tony Started mine tonight but had to stop due to failing light big pile of screws but dash top wont let go must have missed one

A simular thing happened to me yesterday, having a quiet plod north of marlborough,across m4 up through lambourne to back of wantage the last lane i was going to drive before heading home was quite tight and had a small ditch to the right anyway rounding a leaning tree my front wheel slid and dropped into the ditch,no problem i thought, i will just drive into ditch and back out! The ditch was deeper than expected and after several attempts i was well bogged half an hour later i eventually emerged Mental Note: get out and check,lazyness is not good.buy some waffles a ground anchor and snatchblock. (lukily winch was working)

The lane with the tree blockage is called green road and comes off the b4001 which is west of wantage and north of letcombe bassett the trees down are near the end by antwicks stud. trees arnt massive but too much for bowsaw. Good luck.

Stihl havent got a chainsaw yet, but was out today on a bimble and ended up at the back of wantage, cut a few small trees out the way with my small bowsaw but then came across two larger blocking the lane,no puff left so turned round,anyone in the area with a chainsaw?

would the above mentioned exercise make you blind? (old wives tale,i can still see).