uninformed

Good shaft design dictates the dia should be no bigger than the root dia of the spline. So if you are replacing shafts with the same spline type and one is thicker, it may just mean that it’s less able to absorb shock loading and more likely to break at the spline or transition of shaft to spline. One piece or two, strength is going to be more about quality of design and materials. Yes the one piece has one less spline to break or wear, but if the transition from shaft to flange is poor, then it’s not good. One piece shafts also require more precision machining and your axle housing and its components better be spot on true (straight etc)

It is a bit concerning. It seems that (by looking at some pictures ), the 3.75 ratio is the worst. (And that’s what I have 🤦🏻‍♂️) I guess they played with tooth size and pressure angles to get their compromise. I would prefer more base material at the root of the tooth, but such is life. Of course it gets thicker towards the centre of crown wheel.

This would have to be the most boring, tedious job, and probably a good representation of my stupidity…. Wolf/HD wheel studs cut down to suit wolf/130 rims. Im running early 110 front hubs (pre 94) all round. Even though they have longer studs than the later hubs, they stick out less. The end of the stud would be a good 3mm inside the wheel nut, then factor in the bevel/lead in on thread. Obviously I wasn’t happy with that. I had sourced some other aftermarket LR studs that were a good length, but the head was a touch smaller OD, and the shoulder underside of head was square, not beveled (which the hub is ). So I wasn’t happy using those either… yes I used a hacksaw 🤪 and here we are 🤦🏻‍♂️… Wolf top, cut down wolf, factory original bottom

It’s to control direction of vacuum flow to another system. Still lots to figure out and it’s a bit of a maybe at best. Not much else to say at this stage lol…

Thanks mate 👍

Very little progress here…. Had a few setbacks but such is life. All I’ve managed is a little machine work on my LT230. Milled and bored the low range switch boss to accept a steel bush I turned up. This is so I can mount a pneumatic DCV that is activated by the Hi/Low selector shaft. It’s for another system in the vehicle. Still a lot to figure out for that but it’s a start…. Of course LR bore was not concentric to the Hi/Low shaft 😁 I fixed that… Bush with shoulder and internal thread. 15/32 - 32 NS was a fun one to find 🤦🏻‍♂️ shrink fit of 0.02mm, primed with MEK and installed with 638 retaining compound DCV threaded in place. I still have to machine a “button” of precise length to extend the DCV shaft for accurate activation travel.

If anyone is going to do or supply the gear sets to convert their LT230 ratios, make sure you have the correct input gear rear bearing support plate. These changed in ~1998. And note, there are different input gear tooth count and even width depending on which ratio and year you have. So don’t mix and match. Less likely but possible, if you get an old gear set from suffix C/D cases, the dog teeth on the low and high range output gears (and corresponding high/low selector hub & ring) will be thicker than later cases. Again you can’t mix and match these. Suffix A/B cases have a larger intermediate shaft and use roller bearings so won’t swap anyway.

Hi all, Not sure of the best place to ask so figured here as good as any. Does anyone have or a link etc of a cross section of the front axle assembly, specifically the complete hub and swivel assembly. Thanks Serg

Hi all, Not sure of the best place to ask so figured here as good as any. Does anyone have or a link etc of a cross section of the front axle assembly, specifically the complete hub and swivel assembly. Thanks Serg

Sewer caps are /were popular in the US. Simple, cheap and strong as F! you might have to shorten it a little so it doesn’t fowl the Panhard, double check crown wheel clearance. definitely a good option

For front and rear Rover type diffs and the LT230 transfer case I use Castrol Syntrax 75-90w . Most of the world (sans the UK) has moved on from EP90…

That shaft has been known to fail over the years, I would not say common or many , I guess in the scheme of things you could say rare but I’ve heard of 5 or more now. D2 box is stronger there but the worm gear is cheese. P38 RR steering box would be the better bet, easy enough to source and bolt in kits are available .

Great news mate 👍

There should be a tyre placard (sticker) with factory recommendations for tyre pressures. These will be by front or rear axle, tyre size and rating and load. It’s a pretty basic visual chart. Start with that 👍

Good work 👍

Thanks @steve b, that’s excellent. I’m building longer Series style front doors for my 110. The cab dimensions will be set first and the doors built to the cab.

Hi all, SII - SIII front door gaps Can members take a measure on what their front door gaps are on the door bottoms. I know this will vary and be a laugh but I need a starting point as I’ll be building some doors. I’ll be using SIII anti burst locks and SII hinges PFA Cheers 🍺

Yes, the ply workbench is from site scraps 😆

Thanks mate 👍. I’m a carpenter

I got the 2nd sill rail fabricated and trial fitted them and the seat base to check legroom etc. With the seat set at the same distance to brake pedal as my X5 donor it’s quite comfortable with good ergonomics regarding steering etc. Also note the space behind the seats for storage and my shoulder should not be molesting the B pillar/cab top anymore…. I’m 6’1” with reasonably long legs for reference…

I can’t remember whether it was late Td5 or Tdci but LR changed the rear discs on Defenders from 290mm to 298mm dia

One done, one to go. Suffered a bit of distortion welding the bottom flange on. Bowed in the vertical plane even though it was clamped to a beam. I’ll pre stress the next one. I added a few extra fixing points for the floor and seat base (mine would get dirt etc under the edges) turned out ok.

I got a little more done on the tub bulkhead angle. Most holes are drilled, profiled to the bulkhead but still have to weld in the shaped flanges. It was raining all afternoon so didn’t want to uncover the 110. I started extending the floor/seat base sills…

Thanks Stephen, they look good mate 👍👍. I’ll do something similar if I can’t sort extrusions. Heres Stephens page for anyone wanting a look https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/102886-mog-404-axles/page/118/