uninformed

Thanks Maverik, lt95 would make sense due to their wide application and milatry use. btw im in Qld Australia and our summers do get hot which doesnt help

Yep seen them, yes they do have "cooling fins" and yes they increase the oil cap....but cooling fins work better with air flowing over them....not alot of air moving in first low when most heat is being created...especially with 49% reduction

PTO....i dont think so. See the 2 pipe fittings on the bottom of the sump....Im thinking in/outlet fot oil cooler.....

the internet hahahahaha if my memory serves me correctly i think it was posted on Aulro.com

hey all, Ill try and attach a picture. i have seen a sump for the LT230 transfer case that has a gear pump built into it, which i assume is for pumping oil around the box or mabye an oil cooler??? would be good to find out exactly what it is and who makes it cheers, Serg

regarding the Gwyn Lewis arms, what does "twin wall" mean? are they OEM arms that have been sleved over and then bent? Serg

its not about getting more travel, although that is a positive by product,its about reducing axle roll oversteer and Anti squat so it performs better. also a 100inch wheelbase is very good on 36inch tyres.....seems to be a happy medium Serg

pretty much what i said, if using a new A frame, which would include adapting/lenghtening the oem one, you can leave the cross member be or move the cross member to suit oem A frame.....either way you will still be moving the spring perches. the idea of longer trailing arms and A frame is good IMO

what issue is it? I know you say "this month" but we are probably behind over here......is it actually the april issue?

I clicked on the link but it didnt work, so i googled there website. The only TA's i could find are indeed longer (approx 300mm) but are not designed to change wheel base, yes you could incorperate them in a wheelbase change but that is not their sole purpose. they come with new chassis mounts, and thats all, so with out a new rear A frame and coil perches, you wouldnt be able to extend the wheelbase, which is what is the D4x4 is sort of done and what i was getting at. if using the stock A frame and changing the wheel base you would also have to relocate the crossmember that the A frame attaches to. serg

put a vdo or other quality gauge in including sendor.....LR gauges are vague at best. Serg

no comment is a comment.......so why bother if you think that there is something bad about that truck, there constrcution methods of the fact i was just offering another way for the op to think about things, let us know Serg

well if you go ask an engineer what is more of an issue, cutting the middle out of a chassis and shortening/lengthening it and moding other things...or...cutting the back of a chassis like bobing a rangie which is done loads, and moving the coil mounts, which you can buy as a spare part from LR. Like I said I dont know your laws, but thought Id offer a simple way to get 100inch like D4x4 did. IMO 100inch set up well will out perform 92.9 inch, especially on 35+ tyres,especially if the 100inch has had the benefit of the rear suspenion geometry worked on Serg

Im not interested in large offset rims, or wheel spacers....but I am interested in the problems they bring. Scrub radius, wheel bearings and exposed brakes are the obvious, but the extra load/forces placed on the connections I have mentioned is there also. Remember LR fronts use to be 6 bolt on a concentric center, now they are 7 with 4 below the center of the axle ; ) cheers, serg

Thanks Tony, would I be correct in saying that you would have approx 150mm from the wheel mounting surface to the outside lip of rim? Serg

hi all, Has anyone here had any failure where the axle case flange meets either the stub axle or the swivel ball? bolts failing?flange tearing or cracking? swivel or stub axle failure? if so, what failure and why? what wheels/tyres etc where you running? cheers, Serg

without knowing the laws over there, I'd look at what Devon4x4 did with there tray back 90, when they converted it from a truckcab, and did the tray the also increased the wheelbase to 100inch. no major chassis work is needed as far as I know, what I mean by this is you can leave the factory trailing arm mounts and aframe mounts where they are and juts redo the chassis from the spring perch back. run it back level, weld on new OEM spring perch and make longer TA and A frame to suit. so no cut and shunt of a 110 or 90 chassis in the mid section, this should keep the engineers happy to some degree. this will give you a better wheelbase and probably better suspension geometry on a lifted rig Serg

hey all, Id like to know who is running wheel spacers and/or large offset rims on rover axles??? doesnt matter what diffs (toy/rover/sals), doesnt matter what shafts, or cvs etc. what Im interested is if anyone is having problems with the: Front: swivel ball to axle case flange connection rear: spindle (stub axle) to axle case flange connection please let me know: how much offset you are running? what size wheel spacers? what size rim? what size tyre? (tire) also how much the vehilce is driven? cheers, Serg

IMO they should be marketing to the big picture, ie: mining, military, police, forestry, agricultral etc, if they can get a strong hold in these markets (worldwide not just the uk) they will have a great on flow of sales.... its worked great for toyota! so they make 1 true commercial 4x4 line up then all the others (freelander, disco and range rover) will sell by association. to get a strong hold in this market they need to take the good idea that is the defender and actually exicute it with some sort of professionalism, rather than the arrogant half assed carp that flows out the factories now!!! so in saying that: keep seperate chassis and body, keep alloy body...BUT figure out what electrolisis is! figure out how to build a body that doesnt leak water and dust like its got its roof off! make the doors on truck cabs 100mm longer. make the cab a bit wider plus track width. bring bake the safri roofs, yes it does get hot in some countries!!! plus it may stop the roof from popping at speeds over walking pace... figure out how to build a decent dash and binical set up.... anything would be better. KEEP THE FRONT VENTS Axles: should be same front and rear to keep things simple, 9 inch crown wheel, spiral bevel with extra bearing support at end of pinion, 4 pin diff. 30 spline axles standard with the ability to upgrade to 35, lockers optional, NOT ELEC! keep offset to one side like now, must be full floating. improve brakes. make axles as wide as possible and the wheels to have minimal offset. engines dont just offer one engine cause it suits the euro market, there is the rest of the world to think of, so yes a high tech 2.5lt engine for the euro markets and then mabe a 3.5-4 litre v6 or v8 using the same tech as 30tdi(totally mechanical) but still effeicent... no computers will open the market up in less developed countries. 6 speed maual, KEEP CONSTANT 4WD, this is a very good thing for so many reasons.... transfer case could have snycro, but must be bullet proof. keep a frame rear and radius arms front, just make all arms a bit longer, like the rears could have been brought forward to the body outrigger which would have saved on extra chassis fitting and brought them up out of the way. reduce the rear antisquat a little. make the steering arms out of steel not cheese...... AND FOR GOD SAKES FIGURE OUT HOW TO WIRE A VEHICLE..... can landrover say relay........ Serg

here is another way to look at it. say im looking at upgrading my cv's. i look at cv unlimited, longfield, rovertracks, and ashcrofts. now all of these have the bell made from 4340. they have different designs in the spline and vehicle application, but can all be made to fit a rover. ashcroft make drop in replacement and use a standard size ball not a small one. there OD is as big as it can be to fit in the swivel ball. KAM state they are making theres out of AEROSPACE 300M. hmmm sounds flash maybe better than 4340..... so i ask then he makes a statement that makes me loose confidence in there product. simple as that. this is a public forum, i wasnt bashing anyone personaly, calling them a bad person or the like. so i pushed a few questions. if i didnt and we all belived what we where told, we would all think stock landrovers cannot be equaled nor need improving. if Steve wants to come on a public forum, he better do his research first and get his info correct or it will do a big diservice to his company. and if he is making his bells out of 300 marging or even 4340 300m he should let people know as this will give information people want when researching products to improve the ****e that comes OEM Serg

what is QED? serg

yes it is to me.... there is a reason they are similar BUT NOT THE SAME! and its a bull**** excuse for someone running a company that is making products from a specific material and cant even get there info correct. he didnt misspell a word or quote the wrong part number. it is more to the point of being uneductated in that field WHICH IS HIS BUSINESS. and personally i think there is a difference between 4340 300m, hytuff and 300 Marging.... other wise every man and his dog would be running shafts like Lara's, there is also quite a difference in heat treating these different materials........ serg

exactly..... 4340 300M is NOT 300 marging,nor is it hy-tuf. im just a carpenter and i know this. kam should really get there info straight if they are going to go public....doesnt give us much confidence in them at all. also is your contract with the australian defence force or landrover australia? serg

what is aerospace M300? is it 4340 300M, 300 marging or something else??? cheers, Serg

what do you supply to land rover australia? cheers, Serg