cosecon

Found the answer myself... Just in case somebody has the same question, I found this fits nicely: 72mm OD, 45mm ID, 10mm thick. It is not identical design with genuine, but I see no reason it should not work.

Hi, I need some help. I need to replace the rear output shaft oil seal, but I do not want to wait to get it with mail order. Does anybody know the dimensions of the seal so I can source it from local SKF stockist?

"MANIFOLD VACUUM Is obtained from a passage under the throttle blade. Manifold vacuum vacuum is high ( 15-18 in Hg) when the engine is idling and decreases as the throttle is opened. At wide open throttle ( loaded) manifold vacuum is considered to be a zero. PORTED VACUUM Is obtained from a passage just above the closed throttle. At idle, no vacuum is applied this port due to its location. As the throttle is opened, this port is exposed to manifold vacuum, so vacuum at this port begins to increase. Since ported vacuum is actually manifold vacuum applied to a different passage it will also be near zero when wide open throttle. " reference to: http://www.emsgas.co...ges/vacuum1.htm

Sorry to hijack the thread, I just saw the photo and i have a question: Did you use ported vacuum for Megajolt?

One very good benefit of the EDIS is the "safe mode" 10 degrees advance option, that can take you home in case of fault.

After checking all, I reached the conclusion of faulty Air Flow meters. I tried a 3rd one from a friend and I had much better and smoother operation than before. I also found out that when my 2 AFMs are cold (not the engine, just newly installed afm on a warm engine) it is working nicely. Once the afm heats up....it looses accurate performance.... I guess I will accelerate the megasquirt installation. I am not worried about cabling...I am worried about fuel maps (spark maps I already have...) I guess if I am stuck I can always send air tickets to a "Grown Up" for a free weekend in Greece....

Spark plugs brand new, changed 500miles ago HT leads Brand new (installation of megajolt) CO adjusted on a high tech analyzer. AFM values are a little less than expected. 1.45 volt in idle instead of 1.6 idle. Tested a second used ebay afm and similar values. I suspect vacuum leak (45Kpa looks a bit to the high side) but not possible to find .... I tried spraying carb cleaner even on the injector holes on the manifold but no leak...

I have confirmed TDC marks and my vr sensor is less than half a degree out. I have tried several different advance settings, including 8, 10, 12 degrees with no luck, that is why I sort of ruled out ignition. I will test this, although I doubt it since I have also tried a spare Idle air control stepper. It is not that I have a bad idle, it is ok but just not perfect. I just had another thought... I checked for vacuum leaks everywhere....except injector o-ring to manifold....What if I have some leak at any of the injectors?

Vacuum at idle is 45Kpa (megajolt). How does this look for a v8? On the low or the high side?

Hi to all I have a Defender 90 manual fitted with a cross bolted V8 4.0L. The cylinder heads are original 3.5 carb, but skimmed accordingly for composite gasket fitting. The heads are quite extensively ported. I currently have hotwire EFI installed and Megajolt. My engine performs very nicely in all rev range. I have a 2 small but annoying problems, which I had with the distributor also: On idle, I have normal 700rpms with a small variation of +-25 rpm, but it feels a bit shaky. (rough). It is like when I had carbs and the choke was applied in a warm up engine, but no black smoke and emission testing in idle is ok. My advance in idle stationary is 13 BTDC and engine load (vacuum is 45Kpa). Yesterday I readjusted the base idle as per manual and I was able to go down to 480 rpm with the engine not stalling. I readjusted up to 525+-25 as per manual When cruising with 1000-1500 rpm, with the foot just touching the throttle, you get this shaky feeling. If you just press a little more the accelerator, It is perfect running. My belief is that both problems are related. So far I have tried: to replace with spare Throttle pot to replace with spare Idle valve to replace with spare AFM (but both I have are not “known to be working”, they were bought on EBAY) to decrease fuel pressure (I have and adjustable regulator) things got worse. Connected several time to ecu fault reader with no faults. I would like to inform you that I have a speed transducer connected, I have a manual box and no oxygen sensor with proper tune resistor. Before , i had a webber 4barel with lucas distributor with no such problem. Is it possible that the K&N cone filter I have directly connected to the AFM is “confusing “ the air flow meter with pulse air in low load/rpm? What do you believe I should check? Thanks P.S. I know the answer is megasquirt, but I would like to postpone a few months for "funding" of MS

Is it genuine or ...part??? I installed a britpart a few months ago and is works so nicely that I have just ordered a new genuine one...my door won't close...

Try transport auction site : shiply.com

Nut + washer:

I believe it is 24 valve not 24volt....

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180915180893?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 very interesting roll bar!!! big Bar!!!!

Last weekend I finally installed megajolt and edis. I know it is not the best option to keep 14cux hotwire and add megajolt and that Megasquirt would be the way to go, but I decided one small step at a time. I had 2 problems during my installation which I would like to share with everybody. I made the vr sensor wiring exactly as in the manual, but it would not start. As soon as I inverted the 2 wires it worked. My engine would not switch off. In my installation in order to provide the megajolt, edis and coilpacks with swiched positive, I got one line straight from the battery (with a fuse of course) and swiched it with a simple relay using the swichable positive from the 14cuxhotwire. It would not switch of. I used a diode in the switched positive just before the relay and it works (I remember reading some advise from HFH if I am not mistaken, but referred to Megasquirt). I think spark is an even better mod than fuel… The engine is smooth in all rpm and it is revving up to 5800rpm (rev limit setting) without any hesitation. I installed the coils on the rear of the engine between engine and bulkhead. I will post some photos in the next few days.

The hotwire 14cux, when you turn the key to ignition, without cranking, the fuel pump should be energised for a couple of secs and then switches of. It get alive again when rpm signal is sent from -ve from the coil to the ecu (cranking or running). I would also check the pump inhibit switch (fitted to rrc) . One other important isue is the relays. The relays are not simple relays, but they have a small diode inline (not parallel to the coil). I have observed that with out the diode on the main relay, my engine will not switch off, so maybe this is your case in fuel pump. See relay schematic bellow.

Googling I found: 1995 Range Rover 1993 Range Rover 1995 Discovery older 3.5 disco

People are actually bidding... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DAIMLER-PSYCHEDELIC-HEARSE-DS420-LIMOUSINE-ARRIVE-IN-PURE-STYLE-HEAD-TURNER-WTF-/160825595354?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item2571f3d5da Nice description also . "A GREAT FUN CAR"

I do not dare think what the tank will be if he installs lpg....

What is the capacity of the fuel bucket????

I used to have problems with mine, every 20.000 miles. I tried 2 new genuine ones, same result, I tried a repair set from Lucas, same result. I finally dismantled it and went to a small local brake workshop and I found some compatible seals from a Toyota...never had any problem since and it is mote than 35.000miles ago.

in some photos there is also another cult amazing piece of ....... like a rocket...I wonder when the sellers sells it on ebay....

Can you believe smbdy is bidding??? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unique-eyecatching-Ford-Hearse-illuminated-Cathedral-roof-/320930095332?_trksid=p4340.m444&_trkparms=algo%3DCRX%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DSI%252BUA%252BLM%252BLA%26otn%3D5%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D69953401469437133

Please allow me to contribute with this masterpiece of engineering I have discovered... http://www.ebay.co.u...191661238271004