cosecon

I guess Nige you pressed the wrong button....this means I have to rewrite everything?????????

Being in Greece with summers sometimes 44-45 oC I prefer the nice original helicopter fan. I will definitely add lpg, therefore dual map etc, but one step at a time. I prefer to do some double work but be able to troubleshoot easily.

(HFH you ve got mail!!!) er .....Checked PMs and email, .....sorry haven't got it...... please resend megasquirt.v8@gmail.com or PM and I'll sort tootysweety Nige

The plug is tts 9-way. I got one from autosparks.co.uk a year ago, but I cannot find in the website anymore.... have a look here: http://www.automotivewiringsystems.com/3-1715-connector%20housing%2051155230.htm

Wouldn't this be a waste of precious liquid????

You could always have a sleeve pipe for protection around the hose.

I think it is getting better...http://www.quasarelectronics.co.uk/3127-3.5-digit-lcd-panel-meter.htm you can adjust to convert voltage to ...whatever scaling factor...

You could always get a digital pressure sensor and connect to an amp meter or volt meter according to the type of sensor... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pressure-Transducer-Transmitter-Gauge-Sensor-Hydraulic-Pneumatic-Gas-Air-Water-/360402381554?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&var=&hash=item53e9a7eaf2 You could either calibrate to show Pressure or have a table to convert volt to pressure .

I can share my experience with international orders since I am in Greece. The best p&p price is Paddocks. I got 30 kg sent for 15 which is amazing price. Negative is no genuine parts as an option Autopost is a nice place, not actually an organized e-shop, but I send an email with part nos and they are happy to send even minor items (2 bolts, 1 nut...etc.) they give you the option of cheapest & cr@p, cheap and ok, genuine and good....15 years of experience (orders were via fax in the beginning) Lrseries is nice because you get a choice of genuine or ...part. I use them for general Defender parts. Very nice site Rimmer I use mainly for V8 items. Nice site and good choice for parts. Ebay for me is only for used parts. Not new since combined postage from a shop is much better than low price per item in ebay (postage kills me)

I do not actually need a new motor.... The 4.0 short block was brand new (15.000 miles ago) and 2000 miles ago I overhauled the heads with new guides, some skimming to raise cr some serious porting and installed the efi + megajolt. The 3.5 v8 would be just one of the projects to keep me busy not that I need something like it. It is actually in a very good shape, just the bores need some attention. The crank is brilliant. I guess I will try and find a cracked 4.0 or 4.6 to get the ancillaries and maybe give a rain-check to the 3.5 project.

Sorry if I confused you. A few years ago I bought a 4.0 x-bolted short block to replace my 3.5 (original defender) motor. I used the timing cover and dizzy from the 3.5 (crankshaft spacer to fit). Right now I am running EFI with megajolt, therefore I am thinking to replace the timing cover with the P38 distributor-less crank pump cover. I understand from HFH post that I need to replace the sump tank also. Can I keep the same v belt crank pulley, v-belt alternator and ps pump or I need to replace everything. The first question concerning the 3.5 was referring to the spare used block I have and I would like to play with overhaul. Thanks again Kostas (not Carlos)

Thanks again. I guess I have to check some local machine shop prices before I decide. Another question concerning my current engine. I have a 4.0 cross-bolted with the cranckshaft spacer to fit the timing cover with the distributor. Since I run megajolt, I do not need-want the distributor. Is it possible that I change the timing cover from a P38 and use the crankshaft pump? Do I need to change all the pulleys or I can have P38 timing cover with v-belt?

Thank you for the fast reply!!! I have some minor ovality on the bore, would you go 3.5 + 020" , or fit a 3.9 liner and piston set?

Hi, I need some ideas-guidance. I have one 3.5 v8 lying down in the warehouse. This was the original motor, fitted to my 90 V8 with su carbs. I am considering to overhaul it, but I would like to make something stronger of it. Before anybody starts suggesting getting a 3.9, or 4.0 or 4.6 or whatever block to start with, I would like to point out that I am in Greece and it is not possible to get one in reasonable price and shipping cost from uk is crazy. Until now I am thinking of new 3.9 (94mm bore) pistons and liners. Is there any other piston option to increase (safely) the bore? Concerning stroke, do you believe that a 4.2 camshaft will be worth the money comparing to the original one. My original crank will need some machining anyhow. Is it possible to fit a 4.2 long nose crank, without machining the block? Or the main bearings are bigger in diameter in the long nose compared to the 4.2 short nose? The fuel supply is going to be hotwire efi and the ignition megajolt. Right now the motor I use is a 4.0(brand new short block) but the joy of creation (and spending funds) is pushing me for this project. Any ideas are more than welcome. Thanks in advance Kostas

From Microcat I got ERR2846. Checking in LRSERIES with this no : CRANKSHAFT KEY Part number: ERR2846 Applicable Models: Defender Discovery 1 Discovery 2 Range Rover Classic 1992-1994 Range Rover P38 Product Description: Crankshaft key V8 petrol models. But double check it since I have no personal experience.

I got one from Adwest directly, and it has been working nicely since 2004....no sign of leak no free-play. They even shipped to Greece at a reasonable price...

Thanks for the wonderful info....It is an excellent write-up. It is a real shame the photos are not available.

Thank you for giving me credit for this masterpiece discovery!

what a waste of series I panels

I cut a hole on the steel support and added an aftermarket fusebox.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hotrod-VW-Landrover-/120996438438?roken=Jhh99j&clk_rvr_id=396121411601#vi-desc :hysterical: :hysterical:

You could even try leaving the inside pump, with it's power cable disconnected. In theory it is not good since the dead pump provides a restriction. In practice it works just fine according to what I have seen in a friends car...This could be a temporary solution to get you going and when you finish the heavy work, make some better solution.

There are different approaches. In my case I bought a used volvo 850 fuel pump from ebay for 2 pounds which "looked" ok and I installed in position of the low pressure pump. Tight fit but perfect. A friend of mine removed the in-tank low pressure and installed a piece of fuel hose and installed a bosch inline external pump and claims no problem. Another friend kept the in-tank low pressure and connected directly inline external pump with no problems. Another friend installed a range rover intank pump. There is also the solution to keep the low pressure pump with a fuel pot that feeds the external high pressure... You can choose.

connector (not sure you have to check): http://www.simtekuk.co.uk/www.simtekuk.co.uk/info.php?p=12&pid=2457466&ack=9 terminals: http://www.polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Sumitomo_Treminals.html

I do not know if this is any help...