streaky

It's a difficult task putting a proper in-car system into a Disco without compremising the load space...as Vavu has demonstrated. I've done quite a few mods to the sound system in mine and have found that the best standard fit speakers for the front doors are the JL Audio brand. I've tried Kenwoods and Sony's in the doors.....binned them all eventualy. Rears are slightly easier because you can use spacers to bring them out a bit. I use Infinity Kappas II's in the rear pillars which are component speakers with cross-overs. I've just purchased a new system for mine which cost more than the truck is worth! (not kidding either) So the current three amp system will get taken out and the new Rockford Fosgate one will go in over the summer. Being a three door I don't have the dicky seats in the rear so will use that space for two subs. The 3 new Amps will be under a false floor like Vavu's but with two cooling fans.....pushing and pulling for airflow.

I'm no expert on wood working mate but MDF is probably nicer to work with than PLY. When it comes to smooth edges and making profiled panels then the MDF would win hands down. The PLY can also be used but might need more use of fillers etc to get a good quality finish. Ply tends to splinter when you cut across the grain..MDF doesn't. I'd say wait for someone who works with wood to come along and give their opinion.

It could also be interpreted as LRO being paranoid at not selling enough tickets. I think LRM have good grounds for a law suit against them now.....thats a stupid move by LRO IMHO. Neither of the two wants to back down now and is getting desperate for ticket sales. Something has to be done before one of them sabotarges the other beyond repair.

My mate Tim bought a set of the series I plans and we set about building it from scratch in his house whilst the wife and kids were away on holiday. Some of the parts he bought direct from Toylander, but the majority we made our selves.... the hardest part being the slightly curved bonnet which is made from aluminium. We used MDF for the main body work which turned out to be a good choice. You needn't be an expert in wood working but some basic knowledge is required. Having the right tools is important too. Luckily...carpentry doesn't need as many tools as engineers or mechanics. I saw an article in LRW mag a few years ago where they covered a build of a Toylander using chipboard! The entire project was a bodge from the beginning and I was surprised the author even allowed his name to be put into print. Tim saw the article and wrote into LRW with photos of his build which was absolutly superb compaired to the magazines featured car.

Not too long ago I installed a set of ARB lockers front & rear in my Disco but the back one now has an air leak after about 3000km only. I have purchased a new set of seals from D4x4 and intend to fit them soon. I'm assuming that it's the seals that have gone because I can hear air coming from the axle breather pipe when I activate the locker. Questions raised about the failure. I used plenty of oil during the fitting and adopted the same procedure in the front locker which is still working fine. I was carefull not to twist them when I put them in. Is there a chance that any oil that has managed to weep past the seals could effect the internal workings of the locker? What tell tale signs should I be looking for when I pull the diff out next week? Thanks Guys. Regards. S.

I bought those Boots about twelve years ago and still wear them today for driving in the dunes. For anything close to wet weather boots I use the Magnums....I have three pairs in various conditions. Best for desert use and hot climates are the US Mil Desert Storm boots. Very light and oh sooo comfortable. I have three pairs of these as well! My friend Heinz Kallin won the 1985 CT Borneo event for Germany and I'll be seeing him at the end of the month when he comes here for the UAE Desert Challenge. I'll ask him what boots they were issued for that event....apparently it was the toughest of the lot and was nearly cancelled half way through because the going was so brutal. I have the CT logo roof rack plaque from the winning 90 that he drove S.

These are the Camel Trophy Desert Boots that I referred to earlier. They are soft Nu-Buck leather with a heavy duty canvas upper ankle support. I wouldn't say they were suited to wet conditions though.

Thanks for the offer Mike ....but I won't be needing it now. All the best. S.

That advert looks great Mike. But I won't have my Land Rover with me so need to blag all the gear from my mates when I come over. I only come back to the UK once a year so the LRM show at Newark better be worth the effort...if not then I'll know not to go next year. I've only ever done Billing shows so have nothing else for comparison.....alot of my friends go there so it's always been fun. Now the are doing Newark I feel like I have to go or face camping alone

There's a huge difference between jungle boots and desert boots. It's a different tool for a different job. For our hotter climate I use the suede & canvas US Desert Storm boots as used every day by the soldiers in Iraq and Afganistan (& other desert). These are well ventiated and have a high tongue that won't allow sand inside etc but being vented they arn't water proof like a leather boot. For dirty work I use the Magnum Boots...but again these arn't fully water proof unless you treat them with after market products. The biggest rip off to date had to be the Original Camel Trophy Hot climate Desert boots made from Nubuck leather. I thought they would be the answer to my prayers but after walking on hot tarmac for ten minutes the glue fixing the soles on melted and they turned into a 90 quid pair of flip flops. My mate Mark had the exact same problem with his..... I took them to a back street cobbler who sewed the soles on using a heavy twine....now they are worthy of being called a desert boot.

I bought a pair of the Filtermags and was amazed at the contents after the first oil change! 30,000km ago I wore out a single cam shaft lobe and despite flushing the engine through three times to remove the metalic particles it would seem that some microscopic particles of steel dust remained inside the engine. The filter mag did exactly what it's designed to do and helped remove them from the system. I'm not so sure that flat magnets would have such good results as the concaved ones though....the surface area of the flat magnet to the filter would be much less and probably not as effective. (but probably better then having no magent fitted at all!)

Alrighty then....I sent the workshop manager a link to this page last week. They had the car for two days and I picked it up on Thursday night before heading off to the desert for the weekend. I haven't spoken to them yet to find out what they'd done but the X- brake is now working as intended. I pull up the lever and have a solid parking brake after two clicks. I'm off to India for a week on business and will crawl underneath when I get back to see what it is they've done to make it work. A least I have the 'before' pictures to compare to. Thanks for all the inputs. Can we have a fitters manual in Hindi please Regards. S.

I hear what you're saying Ard and agree 100% mate.....but when I travel all that way to a Land Rover show I want to actually see some traders, vehicles etc and take in the whole LR show experiance. If the pathetic traders attendance figures for Newark are anything to go by then I might as well go to my local super market for better Land Rover viewing. I know that most of our particular group are commited to Newark now but I personally have no alleigence to any of the mags or the people who run them. All I want is a decent holiday with a bit of LR content thrown in.

Mark is using a Quarter Mile clutch set up in the buggy. At first we used Demon Tweeks for spares but have since found it much much cheaper to go via the States. Even when you off set the cost of P&P it worked out better.

Some great feedback thx. The car is in the workshop who fitted the brake and I have sent them the pictures and a link to this thread so hopefully they can work it out. I gave all of the fitting instructions to the workshop the first time but the accident happened on the last day of the race in October and I haven't been able to access the car since to cross reference what was done. I can't get to the car to provide the VIN etc...but it's a 3 door V8 R380 Left hand drive. The surrounding body work had to be adjusted with a hammer to get the assembly to operate at all...hence the dents etc. Yes...I could have gone directly to X-Eng but I'm sure that Simon would appriciate other peoples points of view as well. If there turns out to be some sort of perculiarity with my car then they'll also benifit from this excercise as well. Thx again. S.

After nearly four months off the road I finally got my Discovery repaired by the insurance company. Right before the collision with an ARB bumper equipped Land Cruiser we were having this discussion http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=35589 Today I was able to get the car up on the ramp and take a picture of how we left the X-Brake. You notice that I had to make an additional bracket to extend the cable & get any sort of working hand brake. I'm hoping that some one can look at this and tell me where it's gone wrong. Comments?

That might be okay for the casual traveller Simon but what about someone who plans to camp at one of the sites as part of his holiday? That person being Moi! Would each party allow camping entrance at short notice? prolly not knowing my luck. Not a bad idea in general though.

Would you mind working out how far Newark and Billing are from Dubai? I only go to one Land Rover show per year and having seen the pathetic list of traders attending Newark I'm beginning to have second thoughts.

Errrrrh...Dude. All I said was that your wheel nuts needed cleaning.

We've all heard the broken promises from the organisers in the past that they would improve security, provide better toilet facilities etc.....I've not seen any improvement in the years that I've been going so I can agree with what Mike says. Over crowding though is a contributing feature of the shows success so I wouldn't say that was a reason not to go. If people were to boycot Billing for justifiable reasons like what Mike has given then just maybe the organisers would sit up and listen. But if you still keep paying top dollar for poor services then they will still continue to provide them without making improvements. I'm going to Newark...it's a new place so perhaps a new broom will sweep clean.

Did you make them via drawings/measurements or did you just fabricate them as you went along? Very nice........ You know the reason why I'm asking right???

Ah! Very handy Steve...thanks.

Just noticed in a mag yesterday that M&M4x4 are selling the flexi arches for 95 quid. Thats quite good should you have to reconsider. IMHO it's better to have no rubbing at all......I wouldn't want to run the risk of either shredding a side wall or perhaps even rearranging the panels. Much would probably depend on the speed at which you reached full compression...at slower speeds you might be able to control the effects of bottoming out. Good luck. Regards. S.

Edited to add. First off...ignore the thread title.....I'm not fitting twin shocks! I have inherited 8 HT shocks with adjustable cannisters etc...they came off of a rolled racer last year and would cost about four grand to buy. A couple of them have bent rods but I intend to get them all rebuilt to make four goodun's out of the eight. Note. All of them have the straight PIN type mounting system which is okay for the front, but the rear shocks on a Disco use the Eye mounts on top and bottom. Has anyone seen a way that I can mount PIN type shocks to the rear of a Disco? Thanks. S.

I asked the same questions to one of the UK suppliers of the rubber doughnut...they said they would look into having them from Polyurathane. That was a few months ago and I haven't heard back anything...so at this point in time I think rubber is the only option. I asked a PU molding company here in Dubai if they can make them...they said the investment in making the mold is substancial and not cost effective for our small market...so I guess it's down to the big boys and distributors to get this done.