Ed Poore
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Posts posted by Ed Poore
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Just attach a motor to the arse of the gearbox. Put it in gear and fabricate a tool holder to bolt onto the bell housing. Simples...
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Well okay I was being a bit facetious, you probably can make a lot of 300 components fit and vice versa but from my research a few years ago if you got two "new" engines of either they wouldn't share many common part numbers.
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But we're all agreed that 8 cylinders are better than 4...
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1 hour ago, landroversforever said:
Or is it the same crank 2/300?
TGV and 300 are nominally the same but share no components. Think the block (by the end) had more waterways (or rather disused ones opened up). I knew the bore was bigger but it turns out the crank is a longer stroke as well.
When I snapped the first crank I thought about converting the old block but there were so many differences it wasn't worth it.
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To date my "conversion" (gathering of bits and thinking) has been
- £400 for the whole Lexus (cost £550 but chap who wanted the shell gave me £150 for it and it was simple that way to get rid of it).
- £900 for the adapter plate and flywheel, at the time I didn't have the equipment to do it myself, now I sort of do and I regret paying for it considering it didn't fit.
- Probably about £100 in an EFI fuel pump, oil filter relocation kit and relays.
So about £500 if Stephen made his own adapter plates. That's with the factory ecu running the engine outside of the donor car.
Going to have to do some work on the headers to make them clear the clutch if I keep it manual but that's just a bit of cutting and welding.
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One downside of them is that they don't have quite the levels of torque that say the 4.6 Rover V8 does. I think 210lbft vs 280lbft but it's not a million miles away (think 265hp in stock form) but the nice thing about it is that it builds that torque pretty much from idle all the way up the rev range.
3 minutes ago, Bowie69 said:I know you're not an auto man, but you can bolt a Jeep AW4 box (basically the same as the lexus box with a different tailhousing) up to the back of the 1UZ and then a relatively cheap or homemade adapter bolts it up to the LT230...
I've got a blank casting from a mate who did various adapters years ago to mate stuff up to an LT230 and a ZF spline adapter thingy. Throwing a tape measure over it a couple of years back when I acquired the LS400 it looked like with some basic machining of that casting you could get the A340 box from the LS400 to mate up to the LT230 without having to clock the boxes like ZF did for the various LR fitments. It was going to be tight though.
Would have resulted in a combination that was the same length as a 300Tdi, R380 and LT230 because the box is so compact for an auto.
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They seem to have gone up in price (or maybe I got a bargain) but I'd strongly consider the 1UZ out of a Lexus LS400 (and so would @Bowie69). If you get a complete car then you don't need any aftermarket ECUs to run it just a few relays to direct power to the various pins. I've done this and have some simple to follow wiring diagrams should you want them. There is an off the shelf adapter to an R380 but to be honest someone with your skills would knock one up faster than it could be delivered.
They are wide but you have to spend quite a bit of dosh to get a Rover V8 to match the power they are outputting as standard. They've also got a factory redline of 6750 rpm which would help with your gearing issues. I've got one mocked up in a chassis if you want any measurements from it. It's a tight fit in some spots to a Defender body but all workable, that's keeping everything in the factory location. Quite a few people switch the alternator, PAS pump and aircon pump around to free up a lot of space.
As things stand the PAS pump is on the drivers side right next to the PAS box and has the reservoir built in. No need to fiddle around with relief pressures like other engines (Cummins spring to mind). The water hoses come out centrally in the engine and using a Defender V8 radiator all the original Lexus hoses are the right diameter and length. Throttle is cable driven rather than electronic (cable drive to the throttle body on top) so you can use the factory pedal.
At least in a 110 I've so far found factory LR or Lexus parts that work. The only custom bit so far is engine mounts (annoyingly they are 1" off dropping in the factory 300Tdi chassis mounts).
I knew a bit about the Thor vs Gems but I'll let more authorative figures such as @Bowie69 and @FridgeFreezer speak about those.
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Personally I think you're over complicating things a bit because you want it to be usable in multiple situations (whilst laudable it may make it more difficult etc).
Your first problem of extracting the milling machine I'd just be looking at scaffold poles and a little garden winch or something similar. I moved by 2 tonne G Dufour mill across my workshop like this, just a crow bar under it to lift it piece by piece onto strips of plywood then 2x4 and then slid the poles underneath. Then my difficult was in something to anchor it but my hydraulic press and workbench provided enough weight with a rope between to put a little garden winch into to control it across the workshop. Just winch a little, reset rollers, winch, reset etc. It was actually very little effort and went quite quickly. Quicker than all the shunting required to get the JCB in.
A friend of mine used the same technique to move a 5t lathe that he acquired and once on the scaffold poles took almost no effort to move on a flat floor.
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You just need to find a local fabricator and get on friendly terms with them. A quick Google shows there are a few around you.
Ironically in Surrey I had very little use for such heavy duty stuff but now I don't live there I use it a lot. A lot of the people who use the thicker wall stuff down here order it in precut lengths so they don't have the problem of scrap storage. They'll even precut the angles required. For example I thought I'd get lots of bits of I beam from a neighbour but after 10 years he's hardly filled a skip with scrap, he's going through about 100 tonnes a month in structural steel but they're all precut and all he does is weld them together and take them to site to erect the barns.
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The only two things I really miss from Surrey were easy access to Bob's yard and the offcut skip at Pyramid Steel. All bar the angle came from there and in 8-10ft lengths, that's a useful length of offcut!
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Since I didn't trust the chinesium engine stand on a 240kg aluminium V8 there was no way in hell I was letting it near the half tonne Perkins monster.
Bits of scrap I had lying around, "carefully" designed so that the sump could come out down the bottom. What I didn't foresee was quite how heavy the sump was not how big the oil pickup was.
Slowly lowering it on bits of 2x4 meant I could wiggle it out.
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It looks like Sid might actually be able to climb up an overhang...
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Aren't you going to suffer even worse than most because of the gearing in the portals if you want to drive assist? The gearing needs to be even higher than most.
Funnily enough as both the 110 and the 6x6 have PTO hydraulic pumps on I was thinking ultimately I'd go hydraulic winches on both. After 7 Sisters I can see the benefits of decoupling the winching from the drive train, at least for the 110. The 6x6 will always be a work horse.
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37 minutes ago, ThreePointFive said:
I have a feeling if you built the wall, that wouldn't be a problem.
Stephen's garden wall...
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It's not quite that straightforward @FridgeFreezer, we've had some dealings with them after we were after some quite specific LEDs and getting them built to spec in China was one of a very limited set of options. They put a lot of effort into the first small batch to make them as requested and very high quality and then once they've nabbed you and secured the order for a bigger batch then the quality control gets thrown out the window. I'm guessing not everyone can be tarred with the same brush but we've not been alone in our experiences. We were lucky enough that we were able to work with Plessey and they designed and built the LEDs we wanted at a reasonable price.
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I've had exactly this issue in the 110. A partial short in the Argo trailer caused the sidelight fuse to get warm to the point it melted the housing and the fuse holder behind it. This resulted in the two bits of the fuse touching and therefore shorting out eliminating the fuse.
Smoke started coming from the dash (headlight switch) and I was quick enough to realise what was happening and stop it progressing further.
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That is what a friend and I dubbed silly hour. After about 11pm after an 18h day we occasionally had silly ideas that we'd try out. Occasionally we'd have a genius idea but usually we cost the company a few thousand when things went pop.
Once we called silly hour we had an agreement we probably shouldn't be running live tests on 1.7kV 250kW power supplies we were designing....
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@Stellaghost worth checking whether you can get hold of any suitable tyres in 17". When I had the old RR I could technically fit an 18" wheel instead of a 19" but at the time there was zero tyre choice if I wanted a non road tyre which was the whole thinking behind the change.
Fast forward a few years and things did slowly change but in the end I stuck with the 19" because they had suitable AT patterns in those.
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Another option but the sidewalls done deform much is some Michelin YZLs or whatever the 6x6 had initially. 16ply with stupid sidewalls, almost broke the tyre places machine trying to break the bead on those.
Unfortunately the tread was carp.
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In all seriousness dumper truck / tractor tyres?
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17 minutes ago, Daan said:
Ideally I would aim for 16" diameter and
1 inch thick, sorry 3mm thick.Current tyres look to be a 20" - and without changing the offset (something which I recall Stephen didn't want to do as it's already quite wide) then I don't think you've got 2" clearance currently to the top of the portals. Might be able to drop to 18" though?
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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:
Brilliant @Daan that is food for thought, might start sourcing materials just in case, or I could make a heavy duty slip roll to make my own tube........
Regards Stephen
20" OD...
The smaller bits in the back of the 110 for reference - not sure they'd be man enough at only 16mm thick though.
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6 minutes ago, Stellaghost said:
My forged steering arm looks to have bent slightly, not through being hit just not up to the strain will need to brace or fab a new one up
I can't remember was it tube or solid? Might be stronger if it's tube?
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Well at least Sid's roof is still intact which is a good sign.
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20" OD...
Mog 404 axles
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
I know a bloke who has a couple (of containers) of those...
Just saying...