Matthew

Hi all, Does anyone know of any threads showing how to remove a 200TDi\LT77 and fit a 3.5V8 Auto? I've tried searching but it doesn't like V8...not enough letters! Found all the information I could ever need for megasquirt'ing it when its in!! Cheers, matt

Cheers mark, that could be perfect. I'll try and identify which Timken part number I need then we will know if yours are the same. Looking at the website I think it might be set 37? But I'm not 100% sure I put the right details in....I'm not sure what year of vehicle my axles would've come from. My 90 is 1986, but the axles are from a TD5. Cheers, matt

Thanks John, I did wonder where Ralph was today - doesn't normally take him long when it comes to part numbers! Errol, thanks for the link, site looks very useful!

thanks for the reply. I don't think my supplier has MNR bearings (aren't they made in india? any good?) I've always used Timken bearings and they seem to last ok. Just need to find the part number for the top and bottom bearings....I see Les is using them here in his tech thread (http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5601) any chance of a part number Les? Cheers, matt.

Hi all.. Can anyone tell me the timken/gkn part number for swivel pin bearings? I've got a really good bearing suppler near me but he won't understand the Land Rover part numbers I'm using TD5 90 axles. Cheers, matt

I've got one you can have, only thing is I'm not that close to you. Its yours if you can collect/forum relay/get it anyway you can!

Lifetime warranty

I've had these shocks for over 6 years and they've had a pretty rough time throughout, no problem with the mountings, they just don't provide effective dampening any more. If you leave the vehicle over night for the first 3-5 minutes of driving its very bouncy, then seems to get better. I know some have had loads of issues with Procomp shocks, but in my experience with them I've been reasonably impressed, especially when you consider how cheap they are, 6 years of use isn't that bad! I'll need +5 pin > pin, if anyone’s got the numbers stamped on the casing it'd be very much appreciated. Cheers!

Hi all. I've got a set of Procomp shocks that are going to be replaced under warranty, only thing is I need to give them the numbers stamped on the shock casing. Mine are incredibly rusty and I can't make them out. Could someone with Gwyn's kit front and rear OR the same pin/eye configuration please let me know what numbers are stamped on the front and rear casings? thanks, matt

Just my 2pence worth.. I had a whole load of oil come out the exhaust of my 200TDi 90 at a shire event one day, I stopped the engine as soon as we realised. Got it towed home (thanks mr. AA man....I was greenlaning honest!?) and found the engine had taken on some water, probably through the dipstick. The water had gone directly into the sump and with water being heavier than oil it sat at the bottom, pushing the oil up and out my exhaust. Worth considering if you'd been near any reasonably deep water before it got laid up for some time.. matt

I'm just about to have my Procomps replaced under warranty, I don't think they are to bad, been on the truck over 6 years and have seen quite a bit of abuse! Now they just don't provide proper dampering, suspension is bouncy. Procomp and bearmach have been very good about replacing them, however they've asked me for the numbers stamped onto the shock and mine are a little rusty so I can't make them out. Can anyone with Gwyn's challenge set up using +5.5" front and rear give me the numbers stamped on the shock? Thanks for your help. matt

....the basic 12volt supply looked like this when the system was in its first revision....but you get complacent with the sound level very quickly...and always want more!?! Matts_Car.pdf

Nick, don't be put off the sub by the size of a 12-15" speaker, you can get some excellent sound from 10" sub's and the box they require is MUCH smaller Different sized subs are better suited to different styles of music; 10" best suited to faster music with punchy bass lines, 12" is the best all rounder, good for fast music but can handle big deep bass lines. 15" is no good for fast music (the cones just doesn't react fast enough) but is EXCELLENT for hitting HUGE bass lines. I’m planning to eventually fit 1x small 10" sub, in a very small box behind the bulkhead. It shouldn't take up much room at all. As you already mentioned box size is very important. If you build a box just below the manufacturers recommendations for cubic capacity you will find the bass hits really hard and sounds extremely "tight" if you build bigger, bass gets sloppy and sounds carp! In competition sound off vehicles they make the sound travel around 6ft before it leaves the box, they do this by having channels for the sound to move through. The bass hits hardest and sounds most crisp when its has travelled around this distance.. How do I know...well please don't put me in the boy racer "******" bracket, but......(the vehicle had no gay body kits, no 2000" rims, no "bling", no boy racer gayness....just an extremely loud soundsystem B) This system had a total of 10200watts of amps. 2x 15" subs with 5" of cone travel (moved ALOT of air!) 2x 1.2fared capacitors, 2x massive odyssey batteries, audiobahn bass controllers and line drivers, 1x Diamond HEX component speakers......all together used to hit around 154-157db (a Boeing 747 usually makes around 150db of sound during takeoff...) Head unit pre-out is the voltage/power output of the RCA channels - most standard head units would be around 1-1.5Volt pre-out. The competition head units are more like 5-8volt, then we used line drivers to boost this even higher. If buying a head unit to be used with amps/larger systems, get the highest pre-out voltage you can, it will make an enormous difference to the overall sound output and quality. For normal speakers: You need to connect RCA cables (front L, front R, rear L, rear R = 4 total) from the hear unit to the amp, then speaker cables from the output of the amp/s to your speakers. For sub: Same as above but the head unit should have a specific "sub out" pair of RCA cables. These need to go into a specific input on the amp, known as a class D block (doesn't put high fq that normal speakers use into the sub) Then connect speaker cables from the amp "sub out" to the sub. If you haven't bought the amp yet and plan on running 4x speakers + 1x sub ideally you'll want 1x 5 channel amp (1 channel must be intended for the sub) or alternatively you could have 1x 4 channel amp for normal speakers, then 1x class D mono block for the sub. New or old you should be able to get hold of the manufacturers recommended box size for the sub, just try the internet.....The LR4x4 for the sound off world... http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/ I hope this is of use, pm me if you've got any specific questions or I can be of any help with your setup. Cheers, matt

Good on you for giving it a go. There is a huge amount of extremely useful information within the technical archive which will help you tackle each job stage by stage. Look out for Les Henson's "How To" sections - fantastic step by step guides fully illustrated http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4731 As for tools, you'll be collecting those for many years yet, this thread should get you started http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=5188 matt

Thanks for the suggestions, fingers crossed its all sorted now! (runs off to find some wood to touch!?) Just been out in it after changing the rubber sections and it seems to be running correctly again. I'll inspect all the other fuel lines in the morning and may replace anyway if the costs not going to be much. Only problem is it would appear my oil pressure sensor has given up, no light with ignition turned on and engine off. Changed the bulb for a known good one, no different. Anyone know what signal/voltage you should get from the oil pressure sensor when there is no oil pressure? Thanks, matt.

Thanks for the input marcus, I've just replaced the rubber sections of the fuel line because I had some kicking around. I did find a small break in one part of it so must have been pulling air in. Took it round the block quickly and still no different, going to take it for a longer drive in a minute. If still no better I'll replace the metal part of the fuel line as well. Then it'll have had the following: New fuel pick up sender (about 12months ago) New rubber sections of fuel line (today) New lift pump (about 2-3months ago) New filter (about 2-3months ago) Complete tank drain and flush (about 2-3months ago) Anyone got any other ideas? Thanks again! matt.

Hi All.. Long story short; was out playing on salisbury plain a few months ago, when I got back on the tarmac it was very clear I had no where near full power. Infact at anything more than 1/4 throttle opening the engine seemed to be starved of fuel. Got it back, drained the tiny amount of fuel left in the tank, changed the filter and lift pump (because I had them on the shelf anyway). Didn't make any difference at all. Then I looked into this and the fuel filter was not getting filled properley so we knew there was a problem getting fuel from the tank to the filter. I used an air line to blow the fuel lines through and found the main pick up pipe from the tank had a blockage in it. Cleared by the airline pressure. Connected it all up and it ran really well...for a short time anyway! Over the weekend the problem seems to have re-appeared! When using any more than 1/4 throttle opening the vehicle becomes incredibly sluggish and chucks out clouds of firstly grey then white smoke. I left the vehicle overnight and restarted this morning and got clouds of smoke when accelerating. When you first start the vehicle and use only low revs, the engine runs well and sounds 100% normal. Obviously I'll check the fuel lines again first, but has anyone had a similar problem? Anyone got any suggestions where/what to check? Its a retro fitted 200TDi, vehicle used to be a 2.1/4 petrol. Thanks for your help! matt

I know this has probably been asked 100 times, I've searched the archive and googled the net only to find some conflicting information, and when wired up the solenoid didn't operate. I know the solenoid and motor work perfectly. Has anyone got a diagram for the later 5 wire type? (Red/Black/White/Green/Brown) Cheers, matt.

Its been off the road for a couple of weeks now, keep fixing one fault and finding three more! Christmas was pretty quite for me this year so rather than falling asleep in front of the tv all afternoon I got to work....and today its running perfectly B) Thanks again, matt

Thanks once again western! Found a good few of those yesterday..but plenty more to go!! matt

Anyone know off hand where the electrical earthing points are on a 200TDi...just want to make sure I don't miss any of them! Thanks, Matt

I had a similar problem with my 200TDi...changed lift pump, filter etc. Turned out to be a blockage in the fuel pic up line. Try disconnecting the lines at BOTH ends then blow through with a compressor. matt

Trimming the arches was pretty funny, I got the wheels just before the Shires seven sister event last year, hadn't ever run them on the truck and i drove it there on a set of AT's. Put them on in the camp site half an hour before leaving for the day and realised i was going to have quite an issue with any amount of articulation. Out came the generator and a small angle grinder with everyone else cued up to leave, I ran round all 4 corners spending no more than 2 minutes on each....don't think they came out to bad considering!! matt

I have just had exactly the same with my 200TDi. Changed fuel filter and lift pump, no difference. The turbo hoses and air filter were changed recently anyway. I checked all the fuel lines and no visable problem, disconnected them and blew them through with an air line to find a blockage in the fuel pick up pipe. Gave them all a good clean and its been perfect since. A friend that works in a garage said he's also known a degrading rubber fuel line to cause a blockage. When the pipe breaks up on a bend you can end up with a small rubber flip inside the pipe - this then acts as a type of one way valve restricting fuel flow. matt