Matthew

They are about 33.5" now, warn down a bit. I had to trim my arches a little as you can see in the pic above, but other than that they are great with a 2" lift! (slight mistake with my first post; they are actually the 34x1050x16's....not 1150!) matt

I run the 34x11.50x16 Jungle Trekkers on a set of Mach 5's with Staun internal beadlocks and don't find it to bad on the road, far to noisey to be an everyday driver but to and from play days is fine. Gearing is obviously raised but I wouldn't say its ever really caused me a problem. As for wear, they seem pretty good, however I try to keep road miles to an absolute minimum. Grip is pretty awesome, the only time I seem to get stuck is when the axle casing/diff is on the ground! Had a set of BFG mud terrains before these and the difference off road is enormus! I'd like some bigger ones to be honest!! matt

I've got a microcat starter application that I picked up somewhere along the way... seems to make mine work perfectly. The forum won't let me post that type of file but if you send me your e-mail address I'll send you the setup file B) matt

.....and selling excellent quality products to 4x4 owners! B) The website will be sorted soon, been having a few issues with it But I have been supplying goods for some time already. I can supply marine grade cable, all fittings and fixtures for it, but unfortunately it is not the cheapest of stuff these days! But it does last! It is also UV,chemical attack and rot proof, it will self-extinguish if it catches fire, can run at over 105 degrees C and is extremely flexible! (104mm sq cable will bend round the same radius as a small tea mug!!) Obviously forum discounts available for anyone that contacts me via pm! I look forward to helping out anyone whenever I can! Matt

Quite right Lars...sorry missed the engine details in the first post, actually says its a 2.5na after re-reading.. i'll get back in my box....

Hi Jim, Thanks for the reply, I assumed it must be something like that. I was planning on making a part to replace the original glass fuse holders with blade alternatives, but if there already available there would be little point! Your TD5 with 2 smaller blade type holders, how many fuses will that hold? My solution should be able to take 16, 8 per row...2 more per row than my current glass fuse holder.. matt

My 200TDi hasn't used glow plugs for 3 years, still starts and runs perfectly..even in the middle of winter, so its unlikely that is the cause.... What the others have said about the battery connections is definitely worth checking out, I replaced my battery cables when I fitted my winches last year, when I was working on the electrics recently I was very surprised to find the earth connections have already begun to incur high resistance because of corrosion...not even 12months later. I took them off, gave them a good seeing to with a wire brush and they are good as new now, never underestimate the problems relating to poor earth connections! The problem of poor earth connections will be more prevalent during colder temperatures; more power needed to start cold engine, more current through earth connections etc etc... matt

Hi..can anyone tell me the difference between the following part numbers? I understand they will be for different chassis numbers, but are they all the same shape? same fittings etc? PRC2443 PRC8072 AMR3138 YQU104850 YQU000200 Number 22 on this pic; (fingers crossed hoping westerns logged on!) Many Thanks, Matt

Hi Boothy, Your definitely right there! we started with 4 tubes, managed to get 2 wheels fully built up, but the other 2 tubes we pinched and they then burst upon inflation! These beadlocks (as you know i'm sure) are fantastic when they are up and running, but my god are the a pain to put together!!!! My hands have until saturday to recover! matt

Thanks for the comments, I'll try challenger again, tried them before but they didn't keep them in stock. Just to be clear, I don't want to run stauns AND tubes in the simex's - stauns are pretty difficult to fit without pinching the tubes, so I wanted some large tubes as a back up for the weekend encase I can't get the stauns set up properley. matt

Hi Gents, Nige, thanks for the sizes! Smo, the Staun Beadlocks use a 155/165-14 tube to lock the beads onto the rim, then you don't use a tube in the normal tyre. see below... (how is the D-Lander coming on??) matt

Hi All, Anyone know a good supplier of heavy duty inner tubes? I need some 155/165-14 tubes for staun beadlocks, and as a back up I need some tubes for a set of 34x1050x16 Simex Jungle Trekkers, but don't know what size these need to be? Thanks, matt

Surely he would have thought it a bad idea to smoke a cigarette when he could smell gas in the cabin? regardless of thinking it could be remnants from the petrol station - the gas is still there!? matt

Thanks for the replies chaps, unfortunately I have just been told the gauge i've ordered is no longer available back to the internet.... Thanks, Matt

Sorry for the hi-jack... What is the maximum EGT you should see on a 200TDi? (running a 300TDi turbo) I am going to change the exhaust soon, does the diameter of the exhaust have an effect on usual/max EGT? - what size exhaust would be best? I'm planning on only having a mid box, and a replacment pipe for it that I can use when not motorway driving! Thanks, Matt

Things have got much worse since my first post, this afternoon my PAS pump has failed which isn't a major issue,steering is understandably heavy when moving at low speed, but it is also extremly heavy when moving at speed. If turning the steering wheel any further than the 2 oclock position it is almost impossible to turn! Is it sounding like a box failure aswel? If so, what is the strongest option for replacement? Also, I've been through a few to many pumps already, what's the best pump to replace the standard? (I intend on having a hydro-assist setup in the future so a compatable pump and box would be nice, but need to get some steering sorted before my MOT expires on the 30th!) Thanks again, Matt

Hi all, What does it feel like when your steering box is beginning to fail? For some time now I've been able to feel a fair amount of play when going over things like tree routes proud of the tarmac, and this morning when taking a left hand corner; with the wheel held in the same place throughout the corner it felt like the wheels were still moving slightly because of some play in the steering system. About a year ago I replaced all ball joints and UJ's. I suspect the steering box because I have always had minor issues with the steering and when trying to adjust the play in the box it would appear at maximum adjustment already (Or incredibly tight!) I would imagine the steering box to be the original from 1986, fitted to a 90. Thanks for any help, Matt

I've got a 150amp alternator to fit to my 200TDi, haven't installed it yet, should be a bolt for bolt replacement but needed a slightly curved adjustment bar (and oviously increase cable size to suit) http://balmar.net/Page6-6seriesalts.html The model i've got is the 60 series (twin foot) but there's loads of different case designs available - i'm yet to find an engine I can't fit one to!! P.s. i used to work for the UK importers so if anyone needs any help let me know...might also be able to get one a little cheaper than retail Matt

HFH..what engine are you running? I have much the same problem and am going to relocate the exhaust but don't know the maximum/optimum diameter pipe to use? I'm running a standard 200TDi which will get some mild tuning in time. I plan to replace the exhaust all the way through.. regarding your question on legality...a friend of mine runs his exhaust just behind the passenger door, to make it worse he's got all the boxes removed!! Past the MOT fine, but it is rather noisy....in fact it sounds like a tank! ...not so good for the daily driver... Matt

I did exactly the same about a year ago, I snapped one bolt, the previous owner had already snapped another, and the last one was so tight nothing would shift it. We tried everything, stud extractors/eazy-outs/heating the block and freezing the bolt/shocking the thread/welding a bar on and nothing would shift it. In the end we had to cut the remaining part of the stud off and drill all three out, then heli coil them. You need to be very careful when drilling them out, the combination of steel bolt and an ally block makes it very hard to drill the bolt out without damaging the block! Heli-coiling was a great solution because now, rather than having a steel bolt into an ally thread (which causes a reaction, greatly accellerated by the presence of water!) I've got a steel bolt into a stainless steel thread! Hopefully meaning it'll never happen again!!! Hope this helps, Matt

Hi Dan, Thanks very much for the info. The truck in your profile pic's looking pretty mean!! Matt.

Oh but that would just be simple! I don't think anyone makes ear defenders powerful enough to save me from the ear-ache i'm going to get from SWMBO if those arches don't end up on the truck!!! Plus I would like to widen the track a little to help a) claw back a bit of steering lock, B) help with on-road stability, c) everyone with the same track width chews up the same bit of ground everytime they go up/down, surely having a different track will be useful? It certainly seems useful to all those little zooki's....... I've not come across to many situations when both my front and left tyres are tight against trees. Thanks, Matt

Thanks for the input, I'm currently running those tyre sizes with standard unmodified arches and no wheel spacers, and they don't rub under articulation or turning (I've had to adjust the steering stops a little) As the arch will be about 40-50mm wider than the standard, I would like to push the wheel out by roughly the same amount, giving the same arch/tyre relationship as before. Unless i've missed something? Thanks, Matt

Hi All, About a year ago my girlfriend bought me some extended wheel arches...I'm now beginning to get earache because they are still sat in the garage and not on the truck! Looking at the D44 website it would appear they are the same as fitted to the 110 Trayback; To fill these wider arches I'm clearly going to need some spacers, searching around i've found many 30mm versions, a few 40mm and a set of 55mm. I'm guessing i'll need roughly a 40-50mm addition to the track (per side) to keep the edge of the tyre in line with the edge of the arch. (I'll fit the arches first and work it out exactly before ordering!) I've heard many different stories regarding wheel spacers, some say "don't fit them, you'll be going through wheel bearings as fast as you can replace them" others have said they've "not noticed any difference in the wear rate of the wheel bearings." So...who's running spacers and how do you get on with them? Is anyone running 50mm+ spacers? I don't mind replacing wheel bearings every now and again, but I don't want to be doing it every month!! The vehicle is used on the road probably every other day. I've got a set of 33x1250x15 AT's on modulars for the road, and a set of 34x1050x16 jungle trekkers on mach 5's with (staun) beadlocks for the muddy stuff! Any help greatly received! Thanks, Matt

Beans added! I've been meaning to give something back for ages now, hopefully these financial updates from Tony will serve, not to put people off donating because they think there is enough money in the pot, but to remind people to keep on donating so we can keep this invaluable service going!!!! I know over the time i've been using the site, the advice from many has helped me save £££'s when working on/modifying/using my 90, so why shouldn't we give some of that back!! Thanks again to everyone who has helped me out in the past! Matt.