SeriesEwan

keep an eye on fleabay...... I found one for £1 on it a few years back

where in the world are you? I cant vouch for their work on a series gearbox *touch wood* but i know of a place that did a fantastic job of rebuilding my mates vw camper gearbox & my old (shhhh ) astra gearbox in sheffield

oh bugger, does it really need to be on bare metal? by tin? what size, I was lookin at either a 2.5 or 5 ltr tin. I was advised by a local body shop about the job. To keep costs down the plan was to steam clean & then wire brush off lose rust from the underside then paint it all with zinc 182. I was then going to get them to cavity wax & underseal on top of that.

Hello. I am going to paint my underside with Upol Zinc 182 Any idea how much i will need to paint an 88 chassis in it?

I have recently done this job too. Ride quality was notably improved, but not as good as new springs ( i have refurbed my back ones & replaced the front ) I Didn't use Ambersil I used grease between the leaves. to put in perspective i can now go over speed bumps a good 10 mph faster than i could before & my spare wheel hasnt escaped once since its been done. Offroad its like a different car now too Further to note ( and quite obvious ) removing the rust with any form of power tool makes a BIG mess, I sacrificed an old vaccum cleaner & gaffer taped it to my angle grinder & that helped a lot, Definalty wear a mask. Also I found a wire wheel much better at removing rust ( cloggs less ) and It didnt heat the springs as much. Finally make sure you have the correct Dowell & bolt.... A certain supplier managed to get just about everything wrong twice over When I ordered these parts ( by the correct desired part number )

Hello there, Now I Had a similar situation a couple of years ago, If I recall ( from my findings ) s3 axles are pretty much interchangeable between SWB & LWB You may have a few issues regarding placement of the oil filler hole ( i have 2 rear axles with fillers in different spots, One on the diff & one on the pan ) Sadly in your case though, ( again backup would be good here ) i *think* Lightweight axles could be a smidge shorter than standard axles. The reason for the lightweights design was so they can fit 2 side by side in a certain sized aircraft & to my reconing the axles would be one of the first things to start rubbing on a width restriction especially given that the lightweight does not have body shoulders. Your best bet would be to measure... Given that you have both axles.

not wantin to tiddle on yer parade, make sure the springs on the twisty side are tip top, if the spring catches death then the hub will unlock itself ( mine did exactly this at an unfortunate moment in the snow ) as the locking mechanism is a battle of 2 springs Not quite sure why they were designed to fail in the off position but hay ho

ok this may sound like a silly question then, how do i access the captive nuts on the side of the bulkhead? i was under the impression that the bulkhead edges were tapped

Already on it those are some threads that i REALLY don't want to shear off / bugger up

undoing the door bolts is easier said than done!

no the front shackles have a distance piece in them to compensate for the gap

rear chassis ones are the same, fronts are different units but not sure about their diameter

thats definately a ducillier Dizzy, look in the BACK of your haynes manual for all the suplimental revisions & you will find out what the correct points gap / setting routine is for that type ( if you read the standard ignition part & set it up as a lucas it will run like a dog ) to be honest setting the gap only gets you in the right postcode for ignition timing, Especially if the lobes are worn, What changing the points gap actually does it alter the dwell angle ( the time it takes to charge the coil ) get yourself a dwell meter ( http://www.maplin.co.uk/automotive-digital-multimeter-with-inductive-pickup-222059 ) & set the dwell angle to the correct figure ( this can be found in haynes )

Agreed! Side windows toughened - so they go to crumbs on impact front windscreens ( in modern cars ) laminated so they can stop flying objects... My 1982 S3 has a toughened glass windscreen however so I am guessing laminated windscreens are a bit more modern a good nice quick check for this is looking through the glass in question using a polariser ( fancy sunglasses, Cinema 3d glasses or a polarising filter from a camera ) toughened glass will appear kind of spotty in sunlight

Good to hear there is a bit of adjustment to be had in the hinge mounts I will let you all know how i get on my plan is to get inventive with a jack & a lump of wood wile loosening the mounting fixings Many thanks

My doors dont shut correctly, When the vehicle is static it is possible to achieve a full tight shut by ramming the door with my hip/arse but as soon as I move off the door the door catch pings out & sits on the 2nd part of the striker ( arrowed ) Also i am noticing a sag in the doors as if they are lower than the tub, Winter is a coming & i wouldn't mind getting a water tight seal whats the best way of adjusting the fit? I have tried playing with the shimming / position of the striker to no avail is there any adjustment to be had in the hinges?

Well got the job done today ( eventually got a free whole day ) all went in no real troubles, Tip for anyone that wants to do the job, Get a bottle jack & 2 stout bits of timber, & make yourself a T piece. Cut one bit of timber so it fits between the chassis rails and cut the other length so it can support the first part & fit ontop of your bottle jack. Use the jack to lift/ flex the rear tub enough so you can slide the braces in & out with no troubles Used Sicaflex to fill in any gaps/holes in the ally ribs & keep teh rubber pads where they should live, turned out to be a suprisingly easy job once I worked out a method of flexing the tub. thanks for the advice fellas

Prolific converters really really need the correct drivers, cant vouch for use with mega squirting but I use these devices regularly at work. Many drivers will appear to work but you need the correct driver for that particular type of prolific chip! Moxa products are generally good too ( if a bit pricey ) though I would avoid using the Ethernet based moxas if mega squirt strings are only 1/2bytes long

i am a bit late to the table with this, but you can get hard varnish specifically for this purpose

http://www.x-eng.co.uk/X-BrakeSeries.asp that's the X eng handbrake conversion

agreed, imho they cause nothing but grief & don't offer any advantage to normal driving. as for any so called savings in fuel economy & increased acceleration, remember when they were advertised that way in the 1950's it was OK to tell bare faced lies in your adverts

yeah I take it as given that any garage wont carry parts for a series. I mean odd jobs that i dont wish to do myself & the obligatory MOT

Finally got the nuts for them, one more question though.... do the springs have a direction? things dont seem to want to line up exactly right now & i wonder if its on back to front

Ahh thats interesting, Millhouses is quite near where I work so it would be handy. I have been going up to holmesfield for lots of bits & bobs but its a bit of a treck / out of the way for me since I moved. I will give them a try

You sir are a legend! I am nicely in now, thanks for the tip off I got a bit snow blind in all the messing about.